229 Sailor Pant Sew Along: Day Five

Attaching the Buttonhole Facing to the Pants.

On today's sew along we will focus on attaching the Buttonhole Facing (C) to the Pants Front. We will be creating the iconic Sailor Pant front flap that will eventually house all those fabulous buttons!

Check out Day One, Day Two, Day Three, and Day Four of the sew along if you need to catch up!

Finish the raw edges first.

Before attaching the Buttonhole Facing to the pants, we need to finish the raw edges of the Buttonhole Facing.  To do this, fold up the 1/2" (13cm) seam allowance to the wrong side along the BOTTOM edges following the instructions below.

First, I have sewn a 1/2" (13cm) stay-stitch on the bottom edges to use as a guide for turning the edges under. I find that making a quick stay-stitch on the sewing machine to mark this seam allowance is quicker than measuring with a ruler. The stay stitch is also useful as a corner cutting guide too. The stay-stitch can then be quickly removed if you want.

A quick stay stitch made on the machine serves as a guide for turning the edge under.
A quick stay stitch made on the machine serves as a guide for turning the edge under.

 

Next, cut a small slit at each corner, to the dot. Be sure to cut just up to the 1/2" (13cm) corner intersection and not beyond. This little cut will release the fabric in the corner and allow the seam allowance to fold up easily. Press to create a clean edges.

Then, stitch close to the folded edge to secure the folded edge and create a nice clean finish.

The corners cut and pressed flat. Edge stitch close to the folded edge for a neat and secure finish.
The corners cut and pressed flat. Edge stitch close to the folded edge for a neat and secure finish.

 

Typically, I would encourage you to add an interfacing to any area that will be receiving button holes, due to the amount of use on the area. However, this front flap is the stand out feature of this pant design. When button hole are cut, often the interfacing has a habit of showing or peeking out. For this reason I am not using interfacing and I am not going to encourage you to either. The recommended fabric weight used in this Sew Along should be heavy and stable enough for buttonholes. Once the Buttonhole Facing and pant are assembled the fabric will be doubled and will have a fair amount of heft.

 

Prepare the front of the pants to receive the Buttonhole Facing.

Since we are going to be cutting the fabric at the slash lines, it never hurts to add a small 1" square of fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the pant at the bottom of the slash line. This fusible interfacing will add a bit of stability and reinforce a potentially unstable spot.

Iron a small square of fusible interfacing to the back side of the pant front at the bottom of the slash line.
Iron a small square of fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the pant, to reinforce the slash line point.
Fusible interfacing ironed to the wrong side of the pants at the slash lines.
Fusible interfacing ironed to both sides on the wrong side of the pant to reinforce the slash lines.
For another bit of extra stability and peace of mind, I like to sew a short stay-stitch just on the inside of the stitch line and on either side of the slash line. This stay-stitch at the slash line will help stabilize the fabric once it is cut. The stay-stitch at the stitching line also serves as a guide on either the right side or the wrong side when pinning and sewing the Buttonhole Facing to the pants front.  I find sewing these guide lines when a slash is to be cut is worth the extra effort.
On one side of the pants, sew the stay-stitch along the stitch line, sewing right over the fusible interfacing and stop to pivot at the dot, and continue stitching up the other side. I find sewn guide lines when a slash is to be cut, worth the extra effort. Repeat on the other side of the front of the pant.

 

Stay stitch line inside the stitch line and on either side of the slash line.
Stay stitch line sewn along the drawn stitch line and on either side of the slash line on the right side of the pant.
Stay stitch line inside the stitch line and on either side of the slash line onthe wrong side.
Stay stitch lines on the wrong side of the pant.

 

Originally, all the pattern markings were transferred from the pattern to the right side of the front of the pant.  If you are not going to use the stay-stitch guides, I find it helpful to draw the slash line on the front of the pant fabric to use as a guide when cutting the slash.

Cut the slash line from the top of the pants to the dot at the bottom of the slash line.  Do not cut past the dot.  The fusible interfacing may help you to see your cutting more precisely.

Use the guide line drawn on the front of the pant to start cutting the slash line.
Start cutting the slash line using the guide line drawn on the front of the pants.

 

 Be very careful not to cut past the small dot or past the stay stitch line.

Cutting the slash line.
Cutting the slash line to the dot. The fusible interfacing make cutting easier to see.
Carefully cutting to the point dot on the slash line.
Carefully cutting to the point dot on the slash line.

 

Attaching the Buttonhole Facing to the pants.

With the right sides together, pin to secure the top of the Buttonhole Facing to the top front of the pants, matching the dots at the corners, notches, and center front.  Sew from one dot to the other with a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance. Back stitch at the start and finish of each dot.

The Front Buttonhole Facing pinned to the front of the pant.
The Front Buttonhole Facing pinned to the front of the pant and ready for sewing.
 
The top of the Front Buttonhole facing sewn to the top of the pant.
The top of the Front Buttonhole facing sewn to the top of the pant between the dots.

 

Now, we will sew the sides of the Buttonhole Facing to the pants along the stitch line.  First, turn your work over to the wrong side of your project, focusing on one side of the Buttonhole Facing at a time. 

Match the lower dot on the Buttonhole Facing with the dot at the bottom of the slash on the pant. Pin using the stitch line on the pants as a guide.  

With wrong side up pin Front Buttonhole facing on one side to the pant using the stitching line as a guide.
With wrong side up pin Front Buttonhole facing on one side to the pant using the stitching line as a guide.

 

Sew the side of the Buttonhole Facing to the pants between the top and side dot. You will be stitching along the the stitch line on the pants, tapering from 1/2" (13mm) at the top dot, to the dot at the end of the slash. Be sure to back stitch at the dots to secure.

Note: To make your sewing easier to maneuver, you might want to reverse your stitching on the left side of your work. Start your stitching at the bottom point, following the stitch line, gradually tapering to the 1/2" (13cm) at the top dot of the pant. Once again be sure you back stitch at each dot.

The Front Buttonhole Facing is stitched to the front of the pant on one side over the the stitch line guide.

View on the wrong side of the pant of the Front Buttonhole Facing sewn on one side to the pant at the slash line.

View of one side of the Buttonhole  Facing sewn.
View on the right side of the pant with the Front Buttonhole Facing sewn on one side to the pant at the slash line.
the top and both sides of the Buttonhole Facing sewn to the pant front.The top and both sides of the Buttonhole Facing (wrong side up) sewn to the pant front (right side up).

 

 

Turn the Buttonhole Facing to the inside of the pants.

All that is left is to turn the Buttonhole Facing to the inside of the pants. Clip, trimming the top edge corners and turn the Buttonhole Facing to the inside of the pant.

 Trim the corners before turning.

 Trim the corners before turning.

Front Buttonhole Facing turned to the inside of the pant.
Front Buttonhole Facing turned to the inside of the pant.

 

Press to set the Front Buttonhole Facing.

Be sure the corners are well crafted and press the seams rolling toward the inside of the pants.  Press well to set the edges and corners.

Turn under 1/2" (13mm) on the Buttonhole Facing below the slash point and press.

 Press the edges, rolling the seams inward.

 Press the edges, rolling the seams inward.

The edge turned under for a clean finish.

The edge turned under for a clean finish.

The front of the pant with the Front Buttonhole Facing installed.
The front of the pant with the Front Buttonhole Facing installed.

 

We are almost finished with the construction of the front of the pant. On Day 6 of the Sew Along we will assemble the Front Dart Gusset Facing to the front of the Pant.