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The Folkwear pattern #128 Russian Settlers’ Dress carries a rich history rooted in Russia but also connected to the Pacific Northwest of the United States—and beyond. Folkwear released this pattern in 1980, during the company’s first five years. It was inspired by the women of the Old Believer communities living near Folkwear’s original home in Northern California.
128 Russian Settlers' Dress sewing pattern includes instructions for a peasant blouse, sarafan (jumper), and a full apron. It also features embroidery patterns, pleating techniques, and traditional needlepunch methods. Additionally, it contains a history of the clothing tradition, originally written in 1979–1980. While some aspects of the costume have since evolved—such as a reduction in ornamentation and the use of machine embroidery—many Old Believers in Oregon still wear modified versions of this traditional dress today. The garments recall a time when peasant culture expressed beauty through everyday clothing. The following is adopted from the history and information included in the sewing pattern.
History of the Russian Peasant Costume: Old Believer Tradition
The Old Believers (starovery in Russian) are a religious group that emerged in the late 17th century after Patriarch Nikon of Moscow introduced reforms to the rituals, texts, and icons of the Russian Orthodox Church. Those who resisted the changes were excommunicated and subjected to centuries of persecution. Many fled to Siberia and abroad.
Following the Russian Revolution (1917), large numbers of Old Believers settled in Manchuria, China. In the 1940s (during and just after WWII), many were forced to relocate again—this time to Brazil and Argentina, where living conditions were harsh. By the 1960s, some members of the group had resettled in Oregon, where a community that may now number as many as 10,000 continues to maintain their traditions. Other Old Believer communities can also be found in South America, Australia, Alaska, Canada, and several parts of eastern Europe. As of 2017, it is estimated that nearly two million Old Believers remain worldwide, with around one million still in Russia.
What is most remarkable about the Old Believers is their steadfast commitment to preserving their religious practices and way of life, often through isolation. Their customs and dress remain so close to those of historic Russian peasantry that many—including Russians themselves—consider them more "authentic" than modern traditions in Russia.
The Old Believers’ faith strictly regulated both behavior and appearance. Men did not shave, and women never cut their hair. An unmarried woman wore her hair in a single braid; once married, she concealed it under a headscarf.
The Costumes
Old Believers continue to wear traditional Russian peasant attire. At baptism, every infant receives a cross, a shirt, and a woven belt—items that remain essential throughout life.
Men and boys wear a rubashka, a brightly colored shirt with a high neckband and an off-center opening. These shirts often appear in vivid shades—shocking pink, chartreuse, citron yellow—and are embroidered with colorful floral borders. A handwoven belt ties the shirt at the waist, often finished with large, decorative tassels.
Women’s traditional attire consists of three main garments: the sarafan (jumper), the rukava (blouse), and the zapon (pinafore apron).
The sarafan is a jumper made from a simple tube of fabric, pleated with knife or box pleats, or gathered into a band. The back is generally fuller than the front and is smoothed with rows of narrow satin ribbons sewn over the pleats. Sometimes, the pleats are drawn into a honeycomb or smocked pattern. Sarafans are typically made from brightly colored rayon challis and are often trimmed at the hem with wide lace or additional ribbon. The shoulder straps and bodice may be edged with plain fabric matching the print and further decorated with ribbons. A deep slit, concealed in the front gathers, may be included to allow for nursing.
The rukava (literally “sleeves”) is the blouse worn underneath the sarafan. Traditionally, it is little more than sleeves with just enough fabric to tuck beneath the jumper, though longer versions are worn in colder weather. The blouse is usually made of a lightweight plain fabric in pastel or vivid tones. Embroidered shoulder pieces often echo the floral motifs found in the sarafan fabric. When not embroidered, the shoulder areas may be decorated with ribbons or machine embroidery. Sleeve treatments vary: formal versions are gently tapered, while practical ones have gathered wrists held with narrow ribbon or cuffs.
The zapon, or pinafore apron, is an essential component of the ensemble. It protects the sarafan from wear and dirt. Its fabric may match or complement the jumper or blouse, using a different rayon challis print. Lace and ribbon trims similar to those on the sarafan are often added to the bib, skirt, and ruffle. If embroidered, the zapon is typically made from a solid-colored fabric. The extent of the decoration—on the bib, skirt, or ruffle—depends on the occasion and the maker’s enthusiasm for embroidery.
Molly Hamilton
June 20, 2025
Thanks for your input and extra education, Liz. Yes, you can see this design throughout northeastern European history. As the article says, this is the history of how this pattern came to be — with some insight into the history of the garments. It is a small look into a much larger garment history as you point out.