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As you may know, Folkwear first released the pattern, 501 Algerian Suit, in 1992 in collaboration with the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. The pattern was based on, and adapted from, a suit in the collection of the Costume Institute of the museum, and includes an open, lined jacket, a lined buttoned vest, and harem-style trousers. We re-released this pattern in 2026 under Folkwear's sole name and brand.
The original suit that this pattern was based on was purchased in Bon-Loada, Algeria by Mr. Archibald D. Davis in 1930. It was donated to the MET's Costume Institute in 1948 by his wife. You can see the original suit in the MET's collection here (and a very similar one in the collection here).
The three-piece suit, also known as a Keswa del Mahsour, consists of a jacket, vest, and trousers. The original suit was made of blue-gray wool broadcloth. Scroll-like designs of light blue and gold soutasche braid decorate the entire front, back, shoulder seams, and neck of the jacket. The soutache also covers the collar and front opening of the vest, and trims the sides and pocket slits and leg openings on the trousers. The vest front closes with small, round brass buttons, as does the faux sleeve placket on the jacket. The center fronts of the jacket, and the slits in the lower arms are lined in a bright pink figured silk. Of note, the slits on the lower arms of the jacket are almost like a faux placket. The slit opens to an inside fabric that can give a little more room in the lower arm, but not at the wrist. The slit closes with brass buttons similar to the front vest closure. The edges of the jacket and vest are faced with yellow, red, and black striped one-inch braid and edged with a black and white silk corded piping.
We have a sample in our collection here at Folkwear that was obviously made as a copy of the original. You can see some photos of it below. I am modeling this suit, which is a little large on me, but I loved the pants! So comfortable and warm!
A long history of this style of suit in North Africa is included in the pattern, but I will give a brief overview here since it is very interesting. The suit is not indigenous to North Africa -- a series of events led this style of dress to be in the region.
The region of North Africa was conquered by Arab Muslims between 670 and 700 AD. Before then, the region had been invaded for centuries by the Romans, Greeks, and Christians. Islamic rule was eventually imposed between the 7th and 8th centuries. But the region remained culturally diverse due to the numerous occupants, including native Berber populations.
Following more invasions by Europeans, the Ottoman Empire was invited to North Africa to help dislodge the Spanish, who had conquered areas along the coast. Pirates (Barbary Coast privateers and pirates) and Ottoman military (Turkish Janissary, a highly trained group of Ottoman military) came together to drive out the Spanish from the region and set up government. By 1587, Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli were incorporated into the Ottoman Empire.
By 1830, France started a conquest of Algiers and occupied Algeria. In 1881, they also occupied Tunisia, and in 1911 Italy had unseated the Turkish government from Libya. And by 1912, Franco-Spanish occupation of Morocco completed the oust of the Ottomans.
The original costume that became the Keswar del Mahsour was introduced to North Africa by the privateers (or pirates) of the Barbary Coast (i.e. North African coast). It was commonly worn by North African seafarers. Later, it became part of the typical costume of North African merchants who wore it with a variety of draped outergarments (like the Moroccan Burnoose). This suit was also adopted and worn by the Turkish Janissary. And later, by the Zouave, a body of light infantry in the French army, originally recruited from Algeria. So, the suit had many iterations throughout the years and throughout the groups that adopted it, but with deep roots in North African culture.
The Keswa del Mahsour usually consisted of four elements. Seroual (note the similarity to Sarouelles, folk pants from North Africa/Turkey) were very full trousers with generous pleats that gather into a wide waistband. Mentan or mental was an eleborately decorated hip-length jacket. And the outfit was completed with two bdaiyat, or vests, worn on top of each other with the inside vest buttoned and the outer one closed with only the bottom two buttons.
The trousers, vest, and jacket were generally made of medium to lightweight wool in pastel shades with bright calico or silk lining. Islamic law dictates that no human or animal forms be represented in decorations, nor symbolism be applied. So, the embellishments on this suit were usually soutache braid (thin or narrow flat cording) trim applied in elaborate scrolling or linear patterns. And these patterns show the influence of Byzantine or classic Greek and Roman motifs. This type of trim is also called passementerie trim, which is continuous soutache braid applied in intricate designs.
We are excited to bring this 501 Algerian Suit sewing pattern, with so much history and culture, back to print. And hope that you enjoy the depth of the information that is provided in the pattern, as well as the great design and embellishment options.
