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Shortly after I took over Folkwear in 2016, Kate Mathews, who had owned and run Folkwear for nearly 20 years before, handed me a shirt. She said, "I really like this shirt, but I think it should go with Folkwear. Plus, I think it will look good on you." I loved the shirt and started wearing it, always getting compliments on it when I did. I wore it to our first photo shoot when I was still just learning what all the Folkwear patterns were (and which were still in print). I knew it was from a Folkwear pattern, but I didn't figure out which until after the photo shoot. I was wearing a shirt from the 125 Huichol Wardrobe pattern which had been out of print for many years! I knew then I wanted to eventually bring this pattern back into print. I didn't realize how long that would take!
We stay busy at Folkwear, getting orders out, printing and packing patterns, digitizing and resizing patterns, making samples, testing and making tutorials, etc.. And we have a LOT of patterns! It was many years before this pattern "rose to the top" of the priority list. I also wanted to release this pattern in larger sizes because the original size range was quite small. But grading a pattern like this up to larger sizes when sizes are nested with two size ranges (and for men and women) was difficult. And honestly, the traditional shaping can make grading a little tricky too -- proportions need to change a bit and some parts can't be graded as much as others. And, I wanted to make sure that we honored the history of this pattern, the culture that inspired it, without appropriating their traditional and sacred symbols.
The Detailing in the pattern starts with an anthropological essay by Susana Eger-Valadez who lived with and shared the lives of Huichol Indians for three years, and returned many times over the years. She dedicated her life work to preserving the art and culture of Huichol (pronounced wee-CHOLE), and was founder and director of the Huichol Center For Cultural Survival And Traditional Arts. And, we will be sending a portion of proceeds from sale of this pattern to support this organization.
We included many embroidery patterns from the original, but none that were obviously sacred symbols (shaman, peyote, etc.). These embroidery designs repeat themselves worldwide - and you will find similar designs from Southeast Asia to northern Europe. I love this about embroidery and decorative stitching on garments - they really connect across so many cultures.
The Garments
There are FIVE(!) garments in this pattern: Skirt, Pants, Blouse, Shirt, and Tabard (or open-sided tunic). All are sized for women, and the Pants, Shirt, and Tabard are also sized for men. These are basic garments with a Huichol spin on construction. There are many pleats at the shoulders, cuffs, and waist, and the garments are all a canvas for creativity -- for fabric combinations, embroidery, and trims.
For yardage and sizing charts, including finished measurements, you can look at this PDF document.
The Pants feature a crotch gusset with a slightly dropped crotch. One leg piece wraps to the inside and there are no side seams. The waist is folded down over elastic. You could add a drawstring instead of elastic. These pants are comfortable and have plenty of room to allow movement from work to yoga. The pants fit up to a 57" hip and take from 2-5/8 to 2-3/4 yards of fabric to make. The only notions you need is 1" wide elastic and thread. Add embroidery to the cuff (or embroidered ribbon as I did here).
The Shirt and Tabard are cut from nearly the same pieces. The shirt has a few front pleats with a slightly longer sleeve that is pleated into a cuff. The shirt has an open collar V-neck, and the Tabard has a slit neck that goes from front to back; both are bound necklines. The shirt ends at or just below the waist but the Tabard is a long tunic that ends at the lower thigh (or knee). The Tabard is open at the sides, from the hip down; but traditionally from above the underarm. These fit up to a 56" chest. The Shirt requires 1-1/8 to 3-1/2 yards of fabric, plus bias tape to finish the neckline (and more optional tape to decorate the cuffs and/or bottom hem). The Tabard requires 2-3/8 to 3-5/8 yards of fabric, plus bias tape for the neckline (and more optional to decorate cuffs and/or bottom hem). Embroidery can be added to either of these garments.
The Blouse has the same neckline as the Shirt, but with a lined yoke. A full front and back are pleated into the yoke, which ends just above high bust. Full sleeves are pleated into the shoulders and cuffs. But you can also leave off the sleeves and turn under the edges to have a sleeveless version. The Blouse fits up to a 54" bust; and needs 2 to 3-1/8 yards of fabric.
The full Skirt is pleated into a narrow waistband that is closed at a simple gusset with a hook and eye. The Skirt can be cut from just about any width of fabric, and the pattern teaches a simple and rustic technique for creating small pleats quickly. The Skirt fits up to a 49" waist (and 54" hip, but there is a lot of ease in the hip). For the larger sizes, the waistband has to be cut on the crossgrain and yardage is larger. For 36" wide fabric, you will cut 3 panels of the skirt, but for 45" or wider fabric, you just cut 2 panels.
The Embroidery and Trim
The pattern includes an 8-page Lore and Detailing which starts with Susana's essay on the Huichol wardrobe. The techniques for detailing follow on how to make handmade bias binding (which can be used to decorate edges as well as bind necklines). And, the embroidery, which is done with waste canvas or even-weave fabric, and is a basic cross-stitch. However, Folkwear also added a Slav Stitch (or Long-Armed Cross Stitch) and Bargello Stitch, which can be used in the designs. We include eleven border designs, four animal designs, and a bargello pattern. Use these, or your own, to add color and art to your garments!
