Tips for sizing up the 107 Afghan Nomad Dress

April 14, 2019 1 Comment on Tips for sizing up the 107 Afghan Nomad Dress

The 107 Afghan Dress is constructed primarily of rectangles, which makes it easy to alter for size and fit.  The skirt, even in its narrower Westernized version, should require no adjustment for up-sizing since it measures 105" (267cm) wide at its lower edge.  You can simply gather the skirt's upper edge more or less, as needed to attach to the bodice.

Chart of pattern piece dimensions:

The measurements on the chart above for Small, Medium, and Large are the actual measurements of the pattern pieces themselves.  These are the sizes of the rectangular pattern pieces you will cut.  The numbers shown for XL, 2XL, and 3XL are only estimates of what the sizes of the pattern pieces should be, and should be treated as starting points to try out in paper or muslin.  A quick test run of the bodice and upper sleeve in muslin or light-weight non-woven interfacing is an easy and inexpensive way to evaluate the fit of the adjusted bodice, waistband, and upper sleeve.  Remember that the underarm gusset becomes a part of the waistband, so you will have an additional 6" (15cm) on each side of the garment (each gusset is 6" [15cm] wide where it attaches to the waistband). Note the bodice has little to no ease, as is typical of this dress.

Adding bodice length

To increase the length of the bodice, simply add to the top and bottom edges of the pattern piece A.  Since the bodice and waistband, when stitched together, will extend further down the front and back body, you will also need to add to the bottom edge of the gusset (the edge that is stitched to the skirt) so that the top of the dress fits the skirt evenly.  

Adding bodice width

The bodice and waistband widths should be the same, so if you widen the bodice piece, be sure to add the same width at each end of pattern piece B.  A widened bodice will attach to the skirt without problem, because you can simply gather the skirt less.

Adjusting sleeve to fit lengthened bodice

The upper sleeve is pleated along the top edge where it joins the bodice to form the shoulder.  The pleats in the sleeve can be made deeper or shallower to adjust to small changes in bodice length, but if you add a lot to the bodice length, be sure to add to the top edge of the upper sleeve pattern piece so that it is at least 2 to 2-1/2" (5-6.5cm) greater than the length of the bodice to allow for the pleating. The top edge of the middle sleeve should be cut to match the bottom edge of the upper sleeve, since no gathering or pleating is done on this seam. 

Traditionally, the slit opening is worn in the back (denotes back of dress). However, I have found the opening to be very comfortable to wear in the front, so that may be another fit option to consider.  Bodice pieces are the same size for front and back. 

That should be about it for adjustments for fit for this dress!  Again, traditional folk patterns are often very easy to adjust up or down.  We hope you enjoy it and tap into your creativity with this beautiful dress! 

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