October 22, 2020
Like our other featured pattern this month, the 242 Rodeo Cowgirl Jacket, has lots of options for making this pattern uniquely yours. There are three options for the jacket - with different yokes, fringe, pockets, and option for waist ties. It is a perfect canvas for embroidery as well. Add a fun western-themed embroidery design, or studs, to the front and back yokes and/or pockets.
I decided to make two samples of this jacket this month. First, I wanted a western-styled jacket that was a little more subdued and would be part of our permanent collection. I chose a needlecord corduroy for the main fabric, and the apricot brandy organic linen, which complimented well, for the yoke facings, undercollar, and cuff facings (both fabrics are from our shop). I used buttons made of hemlock from Favour Valley Woodworking. I made Version B (without fringe). This version has western-style shaped front yoke and sleeve cuff facings. I decided to sew the yoke and cuff facings on without turning under the seam allowance (and use no backings). This would allow the linen to fray and give a "rustic" look to the jacket. The only modification I made to the pattern was to sew the cuff facings on before sewing the sleeve completely together. This is because the design of the cuffs makes it difficult to sew/topstitch onto the sleeve after the sleeve is sewn together.
I really like how this jacket came out - subtle, rustic, and definitely western/cowgirl.
I also think this jacket pattern is perfect for making a simple, unlined jacket that can be worn everyday. It doesn't need a theme (i.e. western theme), but is actually just a great pattern for an everyday jacket.
So, I looked in my stash of fabric and decided to try to make the jacket from some backstock heavy/sweater knit fabric I have. I love this fabric and have a bunch of it (I bought the bolt when I found it). I think it is a designer fabric, but can't remember who (Dolce & Gabbana??).
I decided to take our some of the seams because the print on my fabric is large and I didn't want to break it up with the front and back princess seams. So, I took out the princess seams of the front and back. Now, typically this would alter the fit of the jacket, but since my fabric is a knit, there is a little stretch and I knew it would not make a huge difference. I put the pieces together, taking in the seam allowances as best I could, and I added a few darts in my pattern when cutting the fabric to accommodate the shape of the jacket.
Pattern taped together and laid out of the fabric to be cut.
I made a few other slight modifications to the pattern. First, I cut the collar facings on the wrong side of the fabric so there would be a contrast at the collar. And, I took in fabric at both the top of the armscye and sleeve shoulder a bit. The pattern is designed for using shoulder pads (or large shoulders) and has a lot of ease in the sleeve shoulder, but I did not want to use shoulder pads for this jacket, so I just took out a bit of the extra fabric that would have been there.
Since I was serging the jacket together, and I had fewer pieces, and was not using any yoke or cuff facings, this jacket came together very quickly, even with hand-sewing (whipstitching) the front/collar facings and hem. It is a jacket I could wear everyday! Especially since I added pockets too (from the pattern). This jacket is basically View A with some simple moderations (no yoke/cuff facings, no front/back seams).
May 12, 2023