114 Chinese Jacket


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Sizes XS-3XL 

This sewing pattern for a classic jacket in three lengths and with front or asymmetrical opening is descended from the noblewoman's attire of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).  It is still worn by people of Chinese heritage around the world as a festive garment.  It can be made in lavish silks or satin for formal occasions or cottons for everyday wear.  Indigo-dyed cotton is a traditional choice for everyday wear.

Additionally, the garment has been simplified into a truly versatile design with different options for unusual closures for all three views:

  • View A is our Easy-to-Sew unlined version. The typical side closing is formed by a shaped front overlap fastened by knotted buttons and frog closures at the neck and under the right arm. The bell sleeves, neckline, overlap, and gracefully curved hem edge are all finished with inside facings. A mandarin collar may be added to all views.
  • View B uses the same Pattern Pieces as View A. The jacket is lined, and the contrasting facings, piped with a narrow bias strip, are turned to the outside for a more decorative effect. Both Views A and B may be cut short or fingertip length.
  • In View C, the faced center front opening is fastened with simple or more elaborate frogs. Faced side vents are added. View C is also lined, and may be cut short, fingertip, or mid-calf length.

Optional embellishment techniques include embroidery designs for traditional roundels, a couched embroidered butterfly to embellish side vents of View C, hand-painting techniques, and knotted button and loop closures (frogs).

This is the paper pattern. For the PDF pattern, go here.

Suggested fabrics: Silk or silk-like synthetics, light or medium-weight cotton, or lightweight wool

Yardage chart (.pdf)