September 23, 2020
Attaching the Buttonhole Facing to the Pants.
On today's sew along we will focus on attaching the Buttonhole Facing (C) to the Pants Front. We will be creating the iconic Sailor Pant front flap that will eventually house all those fabulous buttons!
Finish the raw edges first.
Before attaching the Buttonhole Facing to the pants, we need to finish the raw edges of the Buttonhole Facing. To do this, fold up the 1/2" (13cm) seam allowance to the wrong side along the BOTTOM edges following the instructions below.
First, I have sewn a 1/2" (13cm) stay-stitch on the bottom edges to use as a guide for turning the edges under. I find that making a quick stay-stitch on the sewing machine to mark this seam allowance is quicker than measuring with a ruler. The stay stitch is also useful as a corner cutting guide too. The stay-stitch can then be quickly removed if you want.
Next, cut a small slit at each corner, to the dot. Be sure to cut just up to the 1/2" (13cm) corner intersection and not beyond. This little cut will release the fabric in the corner and allow the seam allowance to fold up easily. Press to create a clean edges.
Then, stitch close to the folded edge to secure the folded edge and create a nice clean finish.
Typically, I would encourage you to add an interfacing to any area that will be receiving button holes, due to the amount of use on the area. However, this front flap is the stand out feature of this pant design. When button hole are cut, often the interfacing has a habit of showing or peeking out. For this reason I am not using interfacing and I am not going to encourage you to either. The recommended fabric weight used in this Sew Along should be heavy and stable enough for buttonholes. Once the Buttonhole Facing and pant are assembled the fabric will be doubled and will have a fair amount of heft.
Prepare the front of the pants to receive the Buttonhole Facing.
Since we are going to be cutting the fabric at the slash lines, it never hurts to add a small 1" square of fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the pant at the bottom of the slash line. This fusible interfacing will add a bit of stability and reinforce a potentially unstable spot.
Originally, all the pattern markings were transferred from the pattern to the right side of the front of the pant. If you are not going to use the stay-stitch guides, I find it helpful to draw the slash line on the front of the pant fabric to use as a guide when cutting the slash.
Cut the slash line from the top of the pants to the dot at the bottom of the slash line. Do not cut past the dot. The fusible interfacing may help you to see your cutting more precisely.
Be very careful not to cut past the small dot or past the stay stitch line.
Attaching the Buttonhole Facing to the pants.
With the right sides together, pin to secure the top of the Buttonhole Facing to the top front of the pants, matching the dots at the corners, notches, and center front. Sew from one dot to the other with a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance. Back stitch at the start and finish of each dot.
Now, we will sew the sides of the Buttonhole Facing to the pants along the stitch line. First, turn your work over to the wrong side of your project, focusing on one side of the Buttonhole Facing at a time.
Match the lower dot on the Buttonhole Facing with the dot at the bottom of the slash on the pant. Pin using the stitch line on the pants as a guide.
Sew the side of the Buttonhole Facing to the pants between the top and side dot. You will be stitching along the the stitch line on the pants, tapering from 1/2" (13mm) at the top dot, to the dot at the end of the slash. Be sure to back stitch at the dots to secure.
Note: To make your sewing easier to maneuver, you might want to reverse your stitching on the left side of your work. Start your stitching at the bottom point, following the stitch line, gradually tapering to the 1/2" (13cm) at the top dot of the pant. Once again be sure you back stitch at each dot.
View on the wrong side of the pant of the Front Buttonhole Facing sewn on one side to the pant at the slash line.
Turn the Buttonhole Facing to the inside of the pants.
All that is left is to turn the Buttonhole Facing to the inside of the pants. Clip, trimming the top edge corners and turn the Buttonhole Facing to the inside of the pant.
Trim the corners before turning.
Press to set the Front Buttonhole Facing.
Be sure the corners are well crafted and press the seams rolling toward the inside of the pants. Press well to set the edges and corners.
Turn under 1/2" (13mm) on the Buttonhole Facing below the slash point and press.
Press the edges, rolling the seams inward.
The edge turned under for a clean finish.
We are almost finished with the construction of the front of the pant. On Day 6 of the Sew Along we will assemble the Front Dart Gusset Facing to the front of the Pant.