March 19, 2021 23 Comments on About Cultural Appropriation
Recently we have been called out on social media for our extensive catalog of patterns that originate in the folk cultures of Asia and Southeast Asia. We appreciate this calling out.
Let's be honest - Folkwear develops and sells patterns based on garments from folk traditions from around the world. Many of these traditions are not our own. We do this in the belief that these are more than just clothing patterns. We hope to inspire and provoke interest and understanding of the deeper value of how clothing has helped shape the world. We believe that sewing is made richer, and therefore more enjoyable, when you understand more about the garments you have been inspired to make - including their histories and cultures. The whole reason Folkwear exists is because of cultural appreciation. We are working to balance the historical cultural context of the patterns we sell and the very real objectification and othering that is experienced by the people who identify with the cultures that created these garments. We should, can and will do better.
Some actions we are taking and will continue to take:
Once again, we welcome your feedback on our efforts. We thank those in the sewing community for urging us to do better. We do believe that to gain a true understanding and respect of all people, it is equally important to look a little deeper into the truths and realities of history.
We would also like to recommend some writing on this issue by others in the sewing/craft world:
(1) When Does Cultural Appreciation Become Cultural Appropriation? | Yala Jewellery
March 22, 2021
Thank you sincerely for this post. One of the things that I appreciate most about your patterns is the care that goes into recreating cultural patterns, many of which have never been translated into commercial pattern form. I feel confident when I buy a Folkwear pattern that I am getting a thoughtful, authentic pattern that helps me to celebrate and appreciate the global tradition of sewing garments. It is a sensitive topic, and one that is worth having a dialogue about, but I feel that you are doing everything you can to be responsible while being proactive in helping these styles to reach appreciative sewists around the world.
March 24, 2021
First, let me say that I’ve long been an admirer of Folkwear Patterns – way back before the internet, the little ads in the U.S. women’s magazines really captured my imagination as a sewist!
Personally, I am very sorry that you are being ‘called out’ about your patterns.
At the moment, I am living in fear that a photograph may surface of a costume I sewed 30-odd years ago that today could easily deem me unfit to serve on my church council or work for my non profit employer.
This costume was a beautiful deerskin dress and leggings – embellished with beads that was a work of art and so satisfying to stitch. It was truly a labour of love. I wore it only once, and I remember lending it to a friend for a special party – perhaps one or both of my daughters may have worn it, but I’m not certain of that. I kept it safe in a specially made cloth garment bag for years, but sadly, I’m not sure of its whereabouts today.
I meant no disrespect in creating these garments, in fact I learned a lot in the process and it felt like an honour to wear such a beautiful garment. Just as I enjoyed borrowing a colourful estonian folkwear dress when performing in a grade school variety show or wearing a sari lent to me by a bride to wear to her traditional wedding (not that many years ago) – I really didn’t mean to ‘appropriate’ anyone’s culture. I only meant to celebrate and enjoy that culture.
I so hope that Folkwear will continue to offer your unique perspective to the sewing community – it seems to me that the sewing and wearing of a garment from another culture is very much like “walking” in someone elses shoes – and that can only be a good thing.
Kind regards, Michele
Elizabeth
March 24, 2021
I have long purchased and sewn Folkwear patterns, appreciating a chance to look into other times and cultures. I have welcomed the chance to make a jacket or a skirt or even a type of dress from another country or culture, often an impulse from traveling in that country. In one instance, I saw that the country itself offered patterns for their traditional clothing, but as I didn’t read that language, I waited until I could purchase a pattern written in English.
This idea—that only those of a particular culture can enjoy the fruits of that culture or depict that culture—is not a new one. I remember being in grad school in creative writing and listening to vehement discussion about whether a white woman could write in the voice of a black man, or visa versa. Of course, the issue is never solved. Are creatives only allowed to “make” (whether it be writing or stitching or sewing) in their own narrow cultural heritage? Am I only entitled to the lineage of my grandparents and gr-grandparents? Or can I learn and wear and write and participate in this entire glorious world of influences and cultures and traditions? It is always important to respect and honor different cultural traditions, but if this idea, if taken to its logical conclusion would dictate that other cultures could never wear Western clothing, a laughable idea. Cultural Appropriation also has those who would caution about calling out every instance, as this could unfortunately limit our ability to learn and create from the best parts of our collective human experience.