September 17, 2020
Cutting and Assembly of the Front and Back of the Pant.
Now that you have made all the necessary sizing and lengthening adjustments to customize your Sailor Pants pattern, we will start cutting and sewing! Check out the prep work in Day 1 of the Sew Along.
Most pants patterns have a front leg pattern piece and a back leg pattern piece, This pattern is a bit different, with only one leg pattern piece. The front and back leg are built into the same piece. This design eliminates an outer side seam. The leg piece actually wraps around the leg and connects at the inner leg seam.
We have two leg pieces to cut out and each leg pattern piece should be cut out separately, one at a time. Cutting the pieces one at a time will help to ensure accuracy which is especially important to this design, as well as insuring each leg is cut on the grain (otherwise the legs can start to twist when you wear your pants). Spread your fabric out in one flat layer. Because, this leg pattern piece are rather large, take the time to access how to lay your pattern out so everything will fit and stays on grain. Spread out on the floor if you need to. Below, is an example of the layout of pattern pieces on the fabric and lining, I am using.
Note: It is always a good idea to make a muslin the first time you try a new pattern. Making a muslin frees you to try new techniques, make adjustments and simply familiarize yourself with your project without the added pressure of possibly messing up. It is like a practice round. You can use cheap fabric, leave off details that are not important to fit, and not finish seams.
Cutting your fabric
Place the leg pieces on the fabric first since they are the largest. Remember one of the legs will need to be flipped over with print side down to cut out of the fabric. You want to cut out two leg pieces that are a mirror image of each other, and you want them cut on the grain (so you need to cut them separately and flat, flipping over the pattern to cut out one of the legs).
Depending on your fabric, pay close attention to any directional elements, like the nap or design/pattern/plaid considerations. You do not want the directional elements of one one leg going in the opposite direction from the other! If using a fabric with a directional element be sure both pant pieces are a mirror image of each other as well.
You will need to cut two legs, two waistbands, two godets (if using), two front dart gusset facings, two center back eyelet facings, one center back gusset, one buttonhole facing (on the fold), and one welt pocket (if using) from the main fabric. If you are using a lining fabric (like we are in this tutorial), you will cut two front dart gusset facings, two waistband curtains (on the fold), one center back gusset, one pocket bag (if using), and one coin pocket bag (if using) from the lining. Of course, you can cut these pieces from your main fabric instead of a lining fabric, if you want. Or, you can cut the welt pocket from the lining fabric (for a little fun visual since this piece will be seen from the outside of the pants). Options are up to you!
Pin or weigh all your pattern pieces to your fabric and carefully cut them out of the fabric. Once you have cut out the legs, you can fold your remaining fabric in half being sure the grain is aligned, and cut the remaining pieces. Be sure to pay attention to the grain lines for each pattern piece.
Before you remove your pattern pieces from your fabric, be sure to transfer all necessary instructional marking to the RIGHT side of the fabric. And, make sure your notches are in place. You can use chalk, a tracing wheel, tailor's tacks, or water soluble marker to transfer the markings to your fabric. I have added simple tailor's tacks to indicate the placement of the corners of the top-stitching to be added latter on. I have drawn in the stitch line and slash line as well. Be sure to add these guides to both sides of the center front of the pants with removable marking tool.
Stitch line and slash line drawn on front to each side of pant.
Because we will be handling and manipulating this project at lot during the process of making it, I recommend that you add a stay stitch (sew a line with shorter stitch length) just inside the seam allowances of the leg inseams. This stay stitch will add stability that the curves most definitely need.
Step One: Assemble the Pant Front/Back
Sewing up the Center Front of the pants is the first step in constructing the 229 Sailor Pants. With the right sides of Pants A together, match the notches at the center front and stitch from the top edge to the crotch. You can finish the seam now or wait until later in the process. Press the seams open.
Front pined and crotch sewn. Notice the stabilizing stay-stitching inside the seam allowance
Seam allowance pressed open on wrong side.
Front of the pants sewn up.
That's it for now!
The assembly of the 229 Sailor Pants, is not difficult. However, it is important to follow in the correct order. You will learn some helpful tricks that will ensure your project will go together smoothly. I hope you will try all the techniques offered in this sew along.
Each lesson will be broken down into easy to follow segments, with ample time given for you to sew along. When we are finished you will be amazed with what you were able to accomplish! Hopefully, you will not only be thrilled with your new 229 Sailor Pants, but you will have grown in confidence with all that you have learned.
On Day 3 of our Sew Along we will learn how to make a Welt Pocket in the back waistband of the 229 sailor pants.
May 12, 2023