October 11, 2019
On old fashioned shirts (such as the 202 Victorian Shirt), as well as many well-made modern ones, the tops of the side openings are often reinforced with small tabs to prevent the shirt-tails from ripping. As in so many of our patterns, Folkwear teaches a technique used in the era and that is still relevant and interesting today in the 202 Victorian Shirt pattern. There are three versions shown and taught for making these tabs in the pattern. Each version is one that we found on antique shirts in the Folkwear collection. Here is one on a sheer blouse.
These tabs are great for reinforcing shirt-tails or side slits on shirts or dresses. I will show you how to make one of the versions below.
This simplest reinforcement consists of a triangle stitched on the inside of the shirt. Cut a rectangle 1" (2.5cm) by 1 1/2" (4cm), tuck the edges under, and topstitch the folded edges to the top of the side slit.
First, cut the rectangle from the fabric you want to use - 1" (2.5cm) by 1 1/2" (4cm). I am using the main fabric for the tab, but you could use something bold to add fun detail. Most of these tabs are on the inside of the garment, so they generally won't be seen.
Then, using an iron, press the first fold:
Press the second fold, folding over the top point of the first fold:
Press third fold, folding the corner of the second fold into it:
Press the forth fold, folding the corner of the first fold into it:
Press the fifth fold, enclosing the lower edges of the first and second fold:
The tab is now finished. Press it well and make sure all raw edges are neatly tucked to the wrong side. I made this sample a little asymmetrical, but symmetry for the tab is probably better!
Place this tab, with the pointed side toward the top of the garment, and with the long flat side at the top of the slit - inside the shirt with wrong sides facing. Then topstitch around the folded edges of the tab. I used a contrasting thread here so you could see it better, but, if you want it to blend in and not be noticeable, use a matching thread.