Fabric Suggestions for 252 Beach Pyjamas

By Molly Hamilton
on July 07, 2020
1 comment

Fabric Suggestions for 252 Beach Pyjamas

Folkwear's 252 Beach Pyjamas, made of silk, linen, or cotton, often in bright, cubist-inspired prints, were the height of summer and resort fashion in the 1920s and 1930s.  They were worn from the afternoon to the evening as a fashionable summer style.  Our one-piece, sleeveless version features a full shawl collar that wraps in front and falls gracefully over the shoulders in back. The wide palazzo pants give the appearance of a skirt, and a contrasting or self-fabric sash ties around the waist.  For daytime wear you may want a cool linen or cotton and for evening try a silk or rayon with nice drape.

Suggested fabrics: Light to medium-weight fabrics with soft drape such as rayon, silk, or challis; also crisp, lightweight cotton or linen. Not suitable for fabric with nap, pile, or one-way design.  Attached waist sash is great in contrasting color or pattern of same fabric quality.

Below are some fabric suggestions from some of our favorite fabric stores.  Please note, these suggested fabrics are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written, and may go out of stock from store at some point.  If link is invalid for specific product, look for a similar fabric you can substitute.

 

Of course we had to suggest a cool cubist print - this one in rayon from Style Maker Fabrics.  How fun and gorgeous would this be??

black and white faces in cubist print

 

I also love this abstract leaf shaped rayon print from Bolt Fabric Boutique. This would make a fun and flirty casual summer frock.

Cotton and Steel brand Rayon fabric form Bolt Fabrics.  Ginko leaf shaped multi color print on off white background.  p

 

Crepe de Chine has such a lovely drape and feel.  I love the breath-ability of the silk with the soft texture of the crepe.  The Beach Pyjamas would be perfect of this floral print from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics.

Silk crepe de chine fabric photo.  Off white background with pink floral accent print.

 

This lightweight cotton shirting would work very well for a casual daytime version of the Beach Pyjamas.  Harts Fabrics has several colorways of this fabric in stock at the moment.

Light weight cotton shirting.  Navy blue cubes on off white background.

 

We have some beautiful yarn dyed organic linen in stock here at Folkwear (Pictured above from left to right: apricot brandy, pacific blue, and charcoal).  Taker a look at our full fabric offerings here.

 

This rayon batik from Elfriede's Fine Fabrics would be so pretty and have a great drape and flow!  There are several other rayon batiks to choose from there as well.

 

We hope you enjoy the pattern and would love to see what you do to make it your own!  

 

Fabric Suggestions for 240 Rosie the Riveter

By Molly Hamilton
on May 19, 2020

Young woman in Folkwear #240 Rosie the Riveter overalls with button down shirt under overall bibs.  Standing at bottom of stairs posing with flexed bicep.

The heroic working women of World War II inspired this factory wardrobe of camp shirt, pleated slacks, and overalls with a sweetheart bib. Rosie the Riveter was the fictional character pictured in posters to recruit women into the work force during World War II in the late 1940's.  Women started working in large numbers building airplanes, slacks or overalls, and "utility clothes" became the uniform of Rosie and her colleagues.  Folkwear pays tribute to the accomplishments of the heroic women with this hard working wardrobe of Shirt, Overalls, and Slacks to sew using our 240 Rosie the Riveter Pattern.   

The Shirt is styled from men's sport shirts and is know today as a "camp" shirt.  It is timeless is a crisp white cotton and lots of fun made extra-large in bright tropical prints or patterns. 

The pleated Slacks have large side pockets and a back zipper.  Straight legs fall smoothly from the hips for a clean look.  Add the sweetheart-shaped bodice for Overalls with straps that cross in the back.

The pattern includes historical information and instructions for a knitted sweater and a crocheted snood to keep hair in place as well.  

This pattern has lots of ease, which was useful to working women who needed to do lots of moving around.  Just keep that in mind when determining your size, especially for the shirt (a muslin may be helpful too).   

Suggested fabrics: For Shirt, choose medium-weight cotton, rayon, silk, or blends. For Slacks and Overalls, choose medium to heavyweight cotton, wool, blends, corduroy, denim, velvet, or velveteen.

Below are some fabric suggestions from some of our favorite fabric stores.  Please note, these suggested fabrics are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written, and may go out of stock from store at some point.  If link is invalid for specific product, look for a similar fabric you can substitute.

I love this homespun dotted canvas from Hart's Fabrics.  One of my favorite dresses of all times is made in canvas and has softened very nicely and lasted for years.  You will defiantly want to pre-wash and soften up canvas for garments, but it can be so worth the effort for a durable and sturdy piece.

canvas fabric, small asymmetrical white dots on dark blue background

We currently have a very suitable Chambray (below) in stock here at Folkwear.  I was considering using this fabric myself for the overalls.  

light blue cotton chambray fabricdark blue heavy denim fabric
Chambray (left)    Denim (right)

If you prefer a heavier fabric, we also have a dark wash heavy denim (above) that would make great slacks (or overalls).

We also have a beautiful Merchant and Mills sanded twill and several organic yarn dyed linen fabric choices in stock. Check out all of our available fabrics here.  The twill would be great for the slacks or overalls, and the linen for the shirt (but also would make a lovely pair of slacks!).

slate grey sand washed twill fabric on boltnavy blue sand washed twill fabric on boltazure blue organic yarn dyed linen fabric

This medium-heavy weight cotton Kolkata Cloth has a nice texture and drape for pants and would be lovely used for the Rosie the Riveter overalls as well.  Stonemountain and Daughter has a variety of colors in stock at the moment.  I really love this paprika color!

paprika colored medium weigh cotton kolkata fabric

Any light weight cotton will work well for the shirt.  The pattern suggests a plain white for the classic look of the time.  This tencel cotton poplin looks like a great weight and texture for the classic white camp shirt.  Oak Fabrics has quite a few lovely choices.

white tencel cotton poplin fabric

I love a seersucker shirt or dress in the warm summer months.  This lovely clay red seersucker from Vogue Fabrics would look fantastic under a grey or blue fabric overalls or pants.

clay red colored cotton seersucker shirting fabric

Another fun option for the top would be using a print.  I love this rayon polka dot fabric from Bolt Fabric Boutique.

multicolored polka dot rayon fabric on bolt

Also, I loved this mariner cloth from Style Maker Fabric.  It made a great sundress from this pattern - and would be perfect for making the slacks or overalls too!  And it comes in several different colors.

charcoal mariner cloth - cotton

woman standing in front of a grey wall wearing a blue sleeveless sundressWe used the blue mariner cloth for this dress!

 

Fabric Suggestions for 114 Chinese Jacket

By Molly Hamilton
on March 09, 2020

Fabric Suggestions for 114 Chinese Jacket

The origins of our classically elegant 114 Chinese Jacket are ancient.  Worn today by people throughout the world, this jacket can be traced back 4,000 years in China from the formal court robe of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644)!  Since then, the garment has been simplified into a truly versatile design with different options for unusual closures. Our pattern includes three versions, with varying lengths and with front or asymmetrical openings.  It also includes heat transfer designs for traditional embroidered motifs and extensive instructions for embroidery and other embellishments.

Below are some fabric suggestions from some of our favorite fabric stores.  Please note, these suggested fabrics are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written, and may go out of stock from store at some point.  If link is invalid for specific product, look for a similar fabric you can substitute.

Our pattern suggests the following fabrics:  silk or silk-like synthetics, light or medium-weight cotton, or lightweight wool.

 

This beautiful Lawn form Hart's Fabrics has a lovely color palate that would be a fresh spring look.

 

 

This subtle floral silk noil jacquard would lend well to the embellishments that can be used in this pattern such as painted emblems, embroidery, or beading.  It would also be lovely with contrasting fabric. This fabric is available at Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics.

 

If you love working with silk, Dharma Trading Co has a nice variety of 19.5mm Charmeuse/ Silk Crepe.  Dharma Trading is also a great source for fabric paints, dyes and tools.

 

Finally, Bolt Fabric Boutique has a lovely light weight wool gauze in stock.  This fabric will be a great base for the traditional embroidery included in the pattern. 

 

Fabric Suggestions for 263 Countryside Frock Coat

By Molly Hamilton
on January 14, 2020

Fabric Suggestions for 263 Countryside Frock Coat

This traditional #263 Countryside Frock Coat has been a versatile fashion for centuries and today is the perfect choice for historical military or Western reenactment, as well as an elegant contemporary look. The single-breasted unlined coat features shawl collar, princess seams in back, waist darts in front (woman's coat only), slightly lowered waistline, long narrow sleeves with band cuffs, and above-knee peplum with back vent.

Suggested fabrics: Lightweight denim or canvas, light- to medium-weight wool, linen, hemp, silk, brocade, velveteen, leather, suede, pre-washed tapestry or upholstery fabric.

PLEASE NOTE: These suggested fabrics are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written, and may go out of stock from store at some point.  If link is invalid for specific product, look for a similar fabric you can substitute.

 

This double faced glen plaid and herringbone wool coating  from Stonemountain and Daughter is so nice and would be perfect for this unlined jacket.  It however is deadstock, so it won't be available for too long. 

 

 

Hart's Fabrics has this lovely woven flax.  It has a subtle pattern and overall would make a nice staple jacket.

 

 My mother's Countryside Frock Coat was made of a light blue silk dupioni and it was perfect.  Fabric Indulgence carries a nice variety of silk dupioni.  I love this hazel gold color.

 

This Brussels cotton velveteen from Bolt Fabric Boutique is perfect for this coat - gorgeous and luxurious.

Fabric Suggestions for 202 Victorian Shirt

By Molly Hamilton
on October 15, 2019

Fabric Suggestions for 202 Victorian Shirt

This Victorian Era bib-front dress shirt was fashionable for men in the 1870's and is still elegant today. It was adopted in America and Europe by farmers and tradesmen as rural people began to emulate urban trends.  It continued to be used long afterwards for everyday wear.  Our pattern retains the longer length of a men's shirt from the 19th century, but it may be shortened if you wish.  A perfect companion with a vest or as a woman's tunic, overshirt or nightshirt. Our pattern includes instructions for several shirt-tail tabs for a finishing touch (learn more in this blog post).

Suggested fabrics: Shirting weight fabrics such as broadcloth, gingham, muslin, or lightweight cotton flannel.

PLEASE NOTE: These suggested fabrics are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written, and may go out of stock from store at some point.  If link is invalid for specific product, look for a similar fabric you can substitute.

This Robert Kaufman Gingham collection at Bolt Fabrics has a nice color palette to choose from.  I can picture both a men's shirt and/or a woman's top with any of these fabrics.

This lightweight flannel from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics would be a lovely, soft, and cozy fabric for a shirt, dress, tunic, or nightgown.

For a neutral sold, I love this Fine Cotton Twill in Bone from Hart's Fabric.

For a classic white shirt, this Merchant & Mills Percale from Oak Fabrics is perfect!

Finally, for a holiday shirt or dress (or tunic), I love this Manchester Metallic in Titanium for a look that will pop!

 

 

 

Fabric Suggestions for 117 Croatian Shirt

By Molly Hamilton
on September 20, 2019
1 comment

Fabric Suggestions for 117 Croatian Shirt

The Croatian Shirt is a traditional top worn by peasants, farmers, and shepherds in the Pannonian Basin of old Yugoslavia. Originally made from homespun linen, it is quite elegant in cotton, silk, and sheers. Soft pleats at the shoulders, with a tucked front yoke. Our pattern also includes historical information and instructions for decorative pleats on the yoke.

Suggested fabrics: Shirting-weight fabrics such as cotton, blends, broadcloth, linen, chambray, muslin, gingham, or silk.

PLEASE NOTE: These suggested fabrics are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written, and may go out of stock from store at some point.  If link is invalid for specific product, look for a similar fabric you can substitute.

Bolt Fabric has a nice selection of cotton/linen dobby in a variety of colors (although several colors are out of stock).  This is a sturdy fabric yet soft enough for a top or dress.

Bolt also has several neutral shades of Antwerp linen in stock - this would be nice for a very traditional blouse.  Add embroidery to the placket with this for something really special!

This white cotton shirting with a subtle herringbone pattern from Michael Levine's is a great variation for a classic white shirt.

  

Organic Cotton Plus carries a nice organic chambray.  They have several solid colors in stock at the moment that would make a lovely Croatian Blouse.

I also love this beautiful indigo dyed cotton/hemp from Blackbird Fabrics! It would make a gorgeous blouse.

Updated Fabric Suggestions for 142 Old Mexico Dress

By Molly Hamilton
on July 16, 2019
1 comment

Updated Fabric Suggestions for 142 Old Mexico Dress

This 16th-century Spanish colonial style is quick and easy to make, with just four pattern pieces. Make it as a below-knee dress or a top-of-the-thigh blouse, then fancy it up with the embroidery stitches on your sewing machine, or with other fun and colorful decoration.  The 142 Old Mexico Dress pattern does not include embroidery patterns or motifs, however you can use your own designs or find them on-line, or you can purchase our embroidery pattern to go with this pattern. We have one available as a PDF!  Typical of this style of garment, this embroidery is easy to create and add to the yoke of your Old Mexico Dress.

Suggested fabrics: Woven cottons and cotton blends, such as muslin, shirting, batiste and voile (for breezy, airy summer looks), damask, chambray, lightweight denim; rayon; lightweight linen and linen blends; silks and silk blends.

PLEASE NOTE: These suggested fabrics are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written, and may go out of stock from store at some point.  If link is invalid for specific product, there may be another fabric from the supplier that you can substitute.

 

Folkwear currently has a beautiful yarn dyed organic linen in stock (limited quantity) that would be perfect for this dress or blouse.  Note: all fabric sold by Folkwear is in half yard units!

This Nirvana Triple Gauze at Bolt Fabrics would be a very nice wearable weight and a great canvas for embroidered designs.

This white cotton chambray shirting from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics has a little bit of texture, but could stand up to an embroidered embellishment around the neckline or sleeves.

Additionally, Vogue Fabrics carries a lovely variety of colorful Cotton Gauze.

For a gorgeous selection of hand dyed embroidery threads, take a look at House of Embroidery.  They even have color collections and floss boxes prepared and ready for you to choose from!

 

 

 

 

 

Fabric Suggestions for 226 Princess Slip

By Molly Hamilton
on July 11, 2019

Fabric Suggestions for 226 Princess Slip

The elegant lines of the Princess Slip hearken from 1910 when skirts began to narrow considerably from the fussy underpinnings of the pre-1910 era.  However, this pattern made in the right fabric can also be worn as an easy summer dress, low-knee length for day, or floor-length for evening.

Classic princess seams provide a smooth shape and flattering fit.  The neckline is encircled by a row of wide crocheted lace with a narrow ribbon drawstring.  Bias binding faces the lace-trimmed armholes.  The traditional concealed buttoned placket closes the back, or you can use a zipper (instructions for both are in the pattern!). 

View A is the simple modern version – an easy summer shift or classic slip for sheer dresses.

View B is the traditional floor-length version; a wide bottom ruffle is lightly gathered onto the slip.  Ending just above the hem, this ruffle peeks out prettily below the hem of long dresses (perefect for the 227 Edwardian Bridal Gown).

NOTE:  This is a PDF pattern.  You will get a link to the files to download after purchase is complete.  We are also able to print this pattern on 20 lb, wide-format paper and mail it to you with instructions.  The option is available in the drop down menu.

Suggested Fabrics:  Light to medium weight cottons and blends such as batiste, lawn, challis, eyelet, or broadcloth; rayon challis; handkerchief linen; silk broadcloth.  Originals were made of fine cotton broadcloth. 

PLEASE NOTE: Fabrics used as examples in blog may go out of stock from store.  If link is invalid for specific product, there may be another fabric from the supplier that you can substitute.  These suggestions are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written!

Of course, Broadcloth is a very traditional option.  This 100% pima cotton broadcloth from Vogue Fabrics is a classic.  

For the more traditional version (View B), a light weight handkerchief linen will keep you cool and drape nicely under other garments or worn alone.  We found a nice selection at Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics.

This washed rayon challis from Harts Fabrics is suitable for either of the versions.  There are several very nice color options in stock at the moment.

For a modern sundress/slip (View A), we found a organic batiste at Fabric.com that will be great for a Summer day.

This lightweigh Nani Iro linen gauze could be made into either version of the Princess slip.  We found this fabric at Bolt Fabrics especially lovely and subtle and would be so soft!

Also, we have a gorgeous, slightly sheer, soft, organic, fair-trade cotton that would be beautiful as a nightgown!  I really love the pink, but the teal is a little more subtle and suitable for bed.

For lace trim, Mood (of course) has some great wide lace selections including this one that I love (with built in satin ribbon)!  Just make sure your lace trim can have a satin ribbon threaded through it, if it does not include the ribbon already.

 

Here is an example that Molly sewed.  She omitted the lace trim and shortened the dress to simplify and modernize the slip to be a simple summer dress.  This dress is made from an African Wax Print - you can find a great selection at Ankara and Lace or AKN Fabric.

Fabric Suggestions for 238 Le Smoking Jacket

By Molly Hamilton
on February 11, 2019

Fabric Suggestions for 238 Le Smoking Jacket

Smoking jackets symbolized sophistication during the 1920s and 1930s, both on the silver screen and in real life, but it started as a practical and stylish way to keep fancy clothing clean from after-dinner smoking habits of the British aristocracy.  Folkwear offers two versions of this classy jacket.  One has softly quilted lapel and cuffs, and the other offers constrasting lapel, cuffs, sash, adn pocket bands.  Sized for men and women, and our pattern includes instructions for a women's knitted tank top to wear underneath.

Suggested fabrics: Medium-weight fabrics such as velvet, velveteen, medium-weight brocade, corduroy, medium to heavy weight crepe, medium to heavy weight silk jacquard. 

PLEASE NOTE: Fabrics used as examples in blog may go out of stock from store.  If link is invalid for specific product, there may be another fabric from the supplier that you can substitute.  These suggestions are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written!

We love this fun jacquard print from Michael Levine's.  They carry an interesting variety of jacquard fabrics.

Hart's Fabrics has a nice selection of corduroy.  I can picture myself wrapped in a cotton dusty rose corduroy jacket. This color is so soothing, and the selection here is perfect for finding contrasting fabrics for that version.

A silk dupioni jacket with contrasting lapels, cuffs, and sash is a lovely and luxurious option as well.  Vogue Fabrics has a large selection of silk colors to choose from.

I find it hard to resist the feel of a silk velvet.  I love this color but there are lots more at Michael Levine's.

The Smoking Jacket can be quite a statement so why not do it in a lush fabric.  Try this a hand painted burnout silk velvet from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics. This fabric could be quilted with a plain flannel as in the pattern version for outerwear or a made as is to create a sheer and sexy version.

For a lighter option, we found a rayon crepe from Hart's Fabrics that would make a nice lounge wear option.  

Also, if you are doing the quilted version, Organic Cotton Plus has an beautiful flannel, in several colors, that is good for the environment at 112" wide and 55" wide.  

 

For the knitted tank top, Purl Soho has an amazing selection of high quality yarn available online.  Their Worsted Cotton (loads of colors - a few are below), Lantern (cotton/linen blend), or Understory (baby alpaca, baby yak, and silk) are all great options.  

   

 

 

Fabric Suggestions for 222 Vintage Vests

By Molly Hamilton
on January 05, 2019
1 comment

Fabric Suggestions for 222 Vintage Vests

Well-dressed Victorian gentlemen, at the end of the 1800's, always wore a vest, and smart Victorian women often paired vests with walking skirts for street wear. Our 222 Vintage Vest pattern has 3 different vests to make, two are sized for both men and women and one is designed and sized for women.  They offer a variety of styles, including collarless V-neck, bias-cut vest with shawl collar, and short front-darted style. Traditional bow tie, with instructions for tying, is also included in this pattern.  Two of the vests are sized for men and women, and the shorter, double-breasted vest is sized just for women. 

These vests are perfect for dressing as in ages past, but are also wonderful, and layers beautifully, with modern wear.

Suggested fabrics: Medium to heavyweight fabrics of cotton, silk, wool, linen, synthetics or blends with or without nap, such as brocade, velvet, corduroy, canvas, pique, velveteen, or synthetic suede. The bias cut of the shawl-collar vest is especially suitable for stripes or plaids.

PLEASE NOTE: Fabrics used as examples in blog may go out of stock from store.  If link is invalid for specific product, there may be another fabric from the supplier that you can substitute.  These suggestions are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written!

Authentic men's vests of the Victorian era used silk for the back piece instead of lining fabric.  If you want a period look, don't choose rayon of polyester lining fabric.  Instead look for silk yardage that isn't too nubby.  Silk charmeuse, crepe de chine, dupionni, and shantung will all work well.  Don't use chiffon or georgette, because they are too sheer and lightweight to provide the body and strength you need.

You can also cut the back piece from the same fabric as the vest or from another contrasting fabric for a style option, greater durability, or for an outerwear look (rather than an under-jacket look).

We've listed some fabrics below that we think would work beautifully for these patterns.  

Here is a beautiful Japanese yarn dyed twill that is a cotton /rayon/silk blend.  There are several colors to choose from at Stonemountain and Daughter fabrics. This would work well as main fabric or for lining or backing fabric.

Miacahel Levine's has a good selections of solid colored silk charmeuse that would be great for lining and/or backing.  Here is an antique gold silk charmeuse that we like.

For a fun and vibrant vest (maybe for the collared version of the vest), this floral brocade from Vogue Fabrics would be great as the main fabric.

This plaid 100% wool coating at Hart's Fabrics would be beautiful for a vest worn as outerwear.

 We also have a beautiful cashmere/wool blend that would make a warm and beautiful outerwear vest (I'd do View A with this fabric).

 

We will have a blog post up with some suggestions and tips for making this vest next week. So, check back here!

And, what fabric would you love to use to make one of these vests?