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By Esi Hutchinson
We hope you have been enjoying the 125 Huichol Wardrobe pattern! We were so excited to release it this year, and we couldn't wait to make ourselves some of the garments in this sewing pattern. Please make sure to read the Huichol Wardrobe Lore and Authentic Detailing included in the pattern. It's a good start to inform yourselves about the Huichol people, or Wixárika, of Mexico and how their embroidery distinguishes who they are individually while paying homage to their environment, plants, animals, and livelihood.
In this pattern you have five garments to pick from: the Shirt, Tabard, Blouse, Skirt, and Pants. These garments are quite simple to make, but the plethora of pleats can be a little tricky. Make sure to read this blog post on Options for Pleating.
In this post I will show you how I made the Blouse without sleeves, which means fewer pleats and less fabric! For the Blouse, we suggest light- to medium-weight cotton, rayon, linen, or blends; medium-weight silk, homespun, or muslin; or lightweight wool and blends. I made my blouse from a medium-weight linen.
Refer to the finished measurements in the Sizing and Yardage Charts to help gauge which size to make. I made a size Small, but I widened the sides of the Yoke by 1-1/2" (3.8cm) on each side to fit my shoulders and bust more comfortably. I kept the length of the size Small.
Before sewing, label the shoulder line and neckline on Yoke Facing F. When I first tested this pattern, I was confused about which was which, and I assumed the front was the shoulder (and I was wrong - and the pattern doesn't work if you do that!). Transfer the circles and stars on the Yoke and Front/Back G, and the pleat markings on Front/Back G.
Make the pleats on blouse Front G and Back G as marked on the pattern piece, matching the line to the dot, with the pleats going toward center front. Your Front G and Back G pieces may not fit exactly between the circle markings on the Yoke, but the circles indicate where the pieces are a good rough guide. And you do need to have enough pleats to have the Yoke fit the front and back of the shirt. You may need to adjust your pleats by adding or subtracting pleats on either side of center front to fit the width of the Yoke. I added two pleats on either side of center front to fit the width of the Yoke.
If you would rather not have to make pleats, you could place two rows of gathering stitches between the circles and gather the fabric instead.
I added two pleats on either side of the center front to fit the width of the Yoke.
Right sides together, pin the pleated Front G to the Yoke, matching the stars. Then pin the right side of the Yoke Facing to the wrong side of Front G, sandwiching Front G between the Yoke and the Yoke Facing. Stitch using a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance.
I wasn't paying attention, and I stitched Front G to the Yoke without sandwiching it with the Yoke Facing. I did add the Yoke Facing. But, that said, you don't have to use a Yoke Facing; your inside seam will show if you do not and the Facing does add some stability to the top, but it can be left off.
Front G sandwiched between the Yoke and the Yoke Facing
Do the same with the Back G piece.
Pin the Yoke and the Yoke Facing together before slashing at the shoulder and neckline.
Cut on the slashlines for both the shoulder and the neckline. Try on the blouse to see if you like the fit of the neckline opening, and adjust it to your liking. I cut an extra 1/2" (13mm) on either side of the center of the shoulder line.
Baste the Yoke necklines together close to the slashlines to keep them together.
The instructions have you bind the neckline with bias binding. You can make your own and use store-bought single fold bias tape. Place the right side of the bias against the right side of the Yoke Facing, which is the inside of the blouse. Pin the raw edge of the bias to the neckline. Turn under about 1/4" (6mm) at the first end of the bias, and start stitching from the center back of the neckline. When stitching, pivot the bias at the corners.
Clip the corners of the neckline
Press the bias toward the seam allowance, and turn under 1/4" (6mm) on the unstitched edge of the bias. Slip-stitch the pressed edge to the previously stitched seamline. Trim the seam allowance where necessary.
I didn't want my bias binding to show on the outside. I wanted it finished completely to the inside of the blouse. So, instead of following these instructions, I stitched the binding to the right side of the Yoke, which is the outside of the blouse, instead of to the Yoke Facing, and I turned the whole bias to the inside and stitched it down to cover the seam line.
Since this is a sleeveless blouse, we don't need to add the sleeves. Stitch the side seams together from the star to the bottom.
I tried the blouse on to see if I liked the fit, and it felt too high in the armpit area, so I lowered the seam and stitched about 1-1/2" (3.8cm) below the star.
You may bind the arm opening, or you may press under 1/4" (6mm) twice and stitch close to the pressed edge. I serged the seam allowances, pressed under 1/2" (13mm) at the armhole, and stitched a 1/4" (6mm) from the fold.
Hem the blouse by binding it, or by pressing under 1/4" (6mm) twice and stitching close to the pressed edge.
This is such a lovely blouse -- comfortable and airy! The sleeves give the garment more sun protection, but the sleeveless version suits this blouse as well. You can add the embroidery that comes with the pattern or your own designs. Maybe create your own motifs that resonate with your livelihood or with whatever is important to you!
