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By Esi Hutchinson
Welcome to our last sew-along for the 147 Norwegian Bunad. Here I will demonstrate how to make the Bunad Apron! Read through our other sew-alongs for this pattern here: Bunad Blouse Sew-Along, Bunad Vest Sew-Along, Bunad Skirt Sew-Along.
This sew-along is similar to making the Bunad Skirt. I’ll walk you through the steps of creating this pleated apron. You also have the option of gathering the waist, and you can customize the apron with embroidery and/or lace. I have chosen a white cotton fabric with floral silver thread embroidery already embellished on the fabric. Traditional bunad aprons are often made with white fabric, and many have embroidery or whitework (or lace) added to them. Some have overlays on the bottom edge or bottom edge and up the sides. Here I am making a festival dress (or festdrakt) and not a particular bunad. If you want to make a bunad that is particular to a region or area, research that tradition and use this pattern as a base to create the bunad.
This apron is simple to sew, so have fun and add your own embroidery and other embellishments. For more details and embroidery designs, check out the History and Detailing section inside the pattern!
Fabric
For the bunad apron, light to mediumweight fabrics like cotton, linen, or silk are recommended. As stated above, white fabric is commonly used for aprons. Always wash and press your fabric according to its type before cutting out the pattern.
Sizing
Choose the size that best fits you from the sizing and yardage charts (as well as the "finished measurements"). The apron is meant to be fitted at the waist over the thickness of the blouse and skirt. The apron can be closed at the waist with a clasp, button, or snap, or you can also make the waistband into ties by adding 22" (56cm) on either side of the waistband piece. I am a Medium in Folkwear's grade rule for bottomwear, so I made a size medium for this apron.
Seam Finishes
The apron does not require and seam finishes, all the seam are enclosed! One less thing to think about.
Cutting Out Your Pattern
There are two pattern pieces for the apron (R-S). Piece R is a template for the pleats and how wide you need to cut your apron skirt in your size.
To use Piece R, place the template on the fold of your fabric and use it to guide how wide to cut the fabric and where to place the pleats. All sizes can be cut on the fold for 52” (132cm) or wider fabric. Sizes XS-MD can be cut on the fold of 45” (115cm) wide (or wider) fabric. If the fabric is not wide enough for the apron template, add 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance to the center front for your size and cut two. Cut the apron 36” (91.4cm) long. If you want an apron that is shorter or longer, add 1¾” to the length you desire for the seam and hem allowances.
If you want ties rather than a buttoned waistband, add 22" (56cm) on either side of the piece. If you decide to make the apron with ties, make sure you have enough fabric. The yardage chart only gives yardage for the shorter waistband. If you are making waistband with ties, follow the same instructions for the waistband.
Look at the cutting layouts in the pattern to find the one that is best for your size and fabric width. The waistband can be cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain. The layouts are for fabric with or without nap, pile, or one-way designs.
Be sure to transfer pleat marks.
Let's get started.
Sewing the Apron
First, if you cut two apron pieces (because your fabric was too narrow), sew the apron pieces together at the center front with right sides together. Press the seam open and proceed. This is the one place you will have a seam (if you need it). You can make a French seam here or just finish the seam as you wish.
With the right side of the apron skirt facing up, match, fold, and pin the pleats towards the sides. Pleats should fall away from the center front of the apron skirt.
Baste the top of the waist within the seam allowance to hold pleats in place.
If using waist ties follow the same instructions for waistband until otherwise stated.
Press 1/2” (13mm) to the wrong side on the unnotched bottom long edge and both short edges of the waistband.
Press up the remaining seam allowance on the waistband by 1/2” (13mm).
Fold the waistband in half on the fold line so that the wrong sides are together and the pressed edge is over the previously stitched seam line. Align the long and short edges, sandwiching the apron seam allowance. Press and pin and stitch close to the pressed edges of the waistband from one short end, across the front, and to the other short end.
If you are using the buttoned waistband, add buttonholes on the wearer’s left side and buttons on the right to fit. If you make the waistband with ties, you do not need to add a closure.
If your fabric didn't come with a premade hem, press the bottom raw edges of the apron skirt 1/4” (6mm), then 1” (2.5cm). and stitch close to the pressed edge.
Also, if you want to add lace to the bottom or insert it in the apron, read our lace insertion blog post. You can use the same techniques to add lace in sections on this apron.
Here is my festdrakt made from our 147 Norwegian Bunad pattern -- all together with the blouse, vest, skirt, and apron. Each garment in this pattern is simple to make. We really wanted to create a basic Norwegian folk dress sewing pattern for the sewist to customize for themselves. We hope you have enjoyed this new pattern and its history. Please share with us how you've customized your pattern, we always love to see people inspired by Folkwear.
