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by Esi Hutcheson
Back in the day — roughly between 1795 and 1815 — the Empire Dress reigned supreme among fashionable women. Characterized by its high waistline (just under the bust), the style marked a dramatic departure from the tightly corseted and structured silhouettes of earlier decades. Inspired by the classical ideals of ancient Greece and Rome, the Empire dress emphasized light, flowing fabrics like muslin, allowing women greater comfort and freedom of movement.
Fast forward to modern fashion, and the Empire dress made a chic comeback — often reimagined in modern babydoll dresses with gathered sleeves and soft, flowing fabrics. This contemporary revival blends the comfort and elegance of the original design with a fresh twist. It’s fashion history meeting modern style — a timeless silhouette reinterpreted for the present day. Folkwear's 215 Empire Dress pattern reflects this -- providing an authentic dress with typical period finishing as well as a modern (simple) take (shorter length, elastic armbands and waist, etc).
In this post, I will go through how I made the 215 Empire Dress for myself for a Halloween costume, and hope that this tutorial will help you understand how to use our pattern to make this classic dress -- whether for a period look or a modern dress! I will also show you how I lowered the waist slightly to fit myself.
Fabric Choice and Notions
When it comes to the 215 Empire Dress, I always think of the Bridgerton TV series. Their fabric prints may not have been accurate to the times, but I love The Featherington's dresses and prints. They stand out the most in character and fashion, and I love them. I was inspired by them when deciding what fabric to use for a 215 Empire Dress of my own from Folkwear's fabric collection. I chose the Cotton Satin Batiste - Burgundy Floral bold, rich in color, and floral, similar to a printed fabric the Featheringtons may wear, except not in pastel. If you are interested, check out this article about Historical accuracy – Regency. This article discusses fabrics used in empire dress styles, such as satin, fine cottons, silks, wool, and fine woven linen.
Folkwear suggests using soft, light to medium-weight fabrics such as cotton gauze, batiste, dotted Swiss, rayon challis, silk, or very lightweight silk velvet with drape. Handkerchief linen, or satin, would be suitable as well. For both the Authentic and Simple Versions, the notions needed are 1 to 2 yds (.95 to 1.83m) of ½” (13mm) bias binding or other tape for drawstring or elastic casing.
For the Authentic Version, our pattern suggests 5 to 6 yds (4.58 to 5.50m) of ¼” (6mm) ribbon for drawstrings and one package of seam binding or hem tape. If you are making the dress with the longer sleeve button-and-cord detailing you will need six ⅜” (9mm) buttons and 2 yds (1.83m) of ⅛” (3mm) wide cord, tape, braid, or ribbon.
For the Simple Version, you will need 4 yds (3.75m), maximum, of elastic for the bodice and sleeves.
Sizing and adjusting the Bodice Length
My measurements fall into the Folkwear size Medium. You use your bust measurement for the main part of the sizing for this pattern. I had the idea that I might continue to wear this dress as a casual dress even after Halloween, so I decided to make it ankle-length, and change the waistline to fit me a bit better. I lowered the waistline for comfort and the look I wanted. If you also wish to lower the waistline of your dress, you should lengthen the lines of the bodice pieces to the length you desire for your fit. I lengthened the side seam of the Bodice A piece by 3 inches and the center front by 1.5 inches.
I lengthened the remaining Bodice pieces, Back B, Side Front C, and Side Back D, to correspond to the side seam of Bodice A.
Sewing the Bodice
With the right sides together, stitch Bodice Front A to Front Side Bodice C, matching notch 1 and dots. Stitch only to the dot and backstitch.
Clip diagonally the seam allowance of Front Side Bodice C only to the dot. Don't clip the seam allowance of Bodice A.
Pivot the Side Front C and pin to the top of Front A, and continue stitching from the dot. Then, finish the seam as desired.
If you are making French Seams, stitch only to ½” (13mm) below the dot; make a French Seam. Then, without making a French seam, stitch to the dot, clipping to the dot as stated above, and continue to stitch to the top of Front Bodice A.
Since I'm making the authentic version, I made the open back. So, I pressed under ¼” (6mm) along the Center Back edges of Bodice Backs B and pressed under again ½” (13mm) and stitched close to the pressed edge.
If making the simple/contemporary version, stitch the Bodice Back B pieces with right sides together, using a ¾” (2.5cm) seam allowance, matching notch 2. Press seam open and finish the seam as desired.
For both versions, stitch the Bodice back to the Back Side Bodice D with right sides together and matching the small dots. Ease around the curve to help the stitching. Then press the seam toward the Back Side Bodice D.
You may use either the longer or shorter sleeve for the dress. However, you must use the longer sleeve if you plan to finish your dress with optional button detailing.
For my dress, I chose to make the simple/modern version of the sleeve, which meant using elastic. If you make the authentic version, you will follow the steps in the instructions to make the authentic sleeve with gathers and seam tape, then follow the directions below.
For the simple version: Make a double row of gathering stitches at the top of the Sleeve between stars as marked on the Pattern Piece.
Gathered top of Sleeve.
Both versions: With right sides together, stitch the sleeve to the bodice, matching notch 4 and pulling up gathers to fit between the stars. Stitch again 1/8” (3mm) inside seam allowance to strengthen the seam, and press the seam towards the sleeve.
Pinned Sleeve to Bodice.
Pinned Sleeve to the Bodice on a dress form.
With right sides together, stitch the underarm seam of the Sleeve to the Bodice Sides, matching notch 5 and armhole seams.
Stitched side seam of Bodice and underarm of Sleeve.
Simple sleeve: Press under ¼” (6mm) on the bottom edge of the Sleeve. Turn again ½”(13mm) and stitch close to the pressed edge, leaving a small opening to insert the elastic. I actually decided not to use elastic on my sleeve, so I just hemmed the sleeve without leaving a small opening.
Hemmed Sleeve.
Skirt
Stay-stitch the top of each skirt piece G, H, and J.
Staystitching on the wrong side of the Side Skirt pieces H.
With right sides together, stitch the Side Skirt Panels H to the Skirt Front G, matching notches 6.
Stitched Skirt Front G to Side Panels H
Stitch the Skirt Back J to the Side Panels H with right sides together and matching notches 7.
Stitched Skirt Back J to Side Panels H
For the Authentic Version, press under ¼” (6mm) on the sides and the bottom of the Facing I.
Pressed under edges of Facing I.
Stitch the Facing to the Center Back of Skirt Back J, right sides together, on ¼" (6mm) seam lines, matching the slashlines and boxes. When stitching, taper the stitch to the box. Reinforce the stitching at the box, then cut along the slash line to the box.
Pinned Facing I to Skirt Center Back/ Slashed on slashline on Facing.
Turn the facing to the wrong side of the Skirt Back and press. You can blind stitch or topstitch the facing to the inside of the Skirt. I topstitched the facing. My fabric is quite busy, so it is not very noticeable.
The facing is turned to the wrong side of the Skirt Back and pinned.
Sew a double row of gathering stitches along the upper edge of the Skirt Back J, between the stars on the Simple Version, and from the stars to the center slash, on the Authentic Version.
Gathering stitches on Skirt Back.
Pull up the gathers evenly to match the gathered back bodice and stay-stitch..
Pin the skirt to the bodice, with right sides together. Match the underarm seams on the Bodice to the box in the center of the Skirt Side Panel H.
Matched Bodice side seam to square on Side Panel H.
Match the center front of the bodice and the skirt front. Adjust the front gathers evenly to fit the Skirt. Then, baste the Skirt to the Bodice using a ½” (13mm) seamline.
Gathered front bodice pinned to skirt.
To make the casing for the waistline, pin the bias binding to the skirt, with the fold line of the bias over the previously basted seam line on the bodice. Make sure the right side of the bias binding is pinned to the wrong side of the skirt.
Fold in ½” (13mm) of the raw edge of bias at either end of the back opening on the Authentic Version. (On the Simple Version, fold under one end of the bias and overlap slightly to create an opening for the elastic.)
Pinned bias to skirt and bodice.
Stitch the bias to the bodice and press the seam allowances up towards the Bodice. Trim the seam allowances of the bodice and skirt.
Stitched bias to skirt and bodice.
With the remaining unstitched raw edge of the bias binding, turn under along the bias foldline and pin the bias to the Bodice to form the casing for the drawstring or elastic. Stitch the top of the bias to the Bodice.
Bias pinned to bodice to form a drawstring casing.
Finishing
To hem the skirt, turn under ½” (13mm) on the bottom edge of the Skirt. Turn under again on the hemline and stitch by hand or machine.
If you are making the ankle-length version with the tain, follow the instructions in the pattern.
Since I made the Authentic Version of the bodice, I cut two lengths of the ribbons for drawstrings, approximately 2¼yds (2.05m) and 2¾ yds (2.52m) for under-the-bust and neckline, respectively.
Thread the drawstring through the casings, pull up to fit, and tie.
If you are doing the simple version, you would thread elastic to fit through the casings at the waist, sleeves, and neckline, and stitch to fit.
This dress can be made for casual outings, regency-themed parties, and conventions. Have fun when making your 215 Empire Dress, and check out the Bridgerton styles online, truly spectacular costuming.
And if you are curious, I used the 263 Countryside Frock Coat to make this Spencer-type jacket I am wearing here. I just trimmed the bodice shorter, turned under the hem, and added extra buttons to make it double-breasted.
Constance
November 02, 2025
Why did you decide to lower the waist? What indicated to you that it would be more comfortable and fit better? Thanks for explaining!