Embroidering the 119 Sarouelles Cuff

You can easily add embroidery to the cuff of the 119 Sarouelles Indian pants version.  The pattern comes with 4 embroidery patterns that can be used on the cuff (or you can create your own!), and lots of instruction.  These embroidery patterns are designed for using your basic sewing machine to do the embroidery, though you can do it by hand if you like. You will be amazed at how quickly and easily these designs and techniques work up.

I am showing a sample here of one of the patterns worked up on a cuff facing.  Normally, you would do the embroidery right onto the pants leg, and face it with the facing (in the back).  

Also know that your embroidery design does not need to match when the leg seam is sewn.  Having unmatched embroidery design at the seam is very authentic.  

What You Will Need

  • Fabric
  • Thread
  • Fusible interfacing
  • Dressmaker's carbon and tracing wheel or fine tipped washable marker (or other favorite marking tool)

Transferring the Design

We provide 4 embroidery designs for the cuffs of these pants, and they can be worked a variety of ways.  You can transfer the designs freehand (I like to use a washable fine tip marker for this, but I'm not always great at freehand, especially with precise corners!).  Or, you can use dressmaker's carbon and a tracing wheel. Working on a hard surface, secure the fabric and facing design right side up on the cuff.  Make sure you have the design 3/4" above the raw edge.  I used a couple of pattern weights when I did this sample, but the removable tape we sell would also be great!  Slide the tracing paper (carbon side down) under the pattern and trace the design with the wheel, pressing firmly.  


Embroidery Hints

Be sure to stabilize your fabric before embroidering.  I used a medium weight iron-on interfacing.  

It helps to adjust the tension of the top thread to achieve a smoother look.  The top thread should be slightly pulled to the underside of the fabric.  You can test the tension before you start (though I did it in the first pass I did).  

When making sharp curves or corners, always stop stitching with the needle down in the fabric then lift the presser foot and rotate the fabric.  

I used a zigzag stitch for this sample - with a stitch length of 0.8 and a width of 2.5.

Press the embroidery with it facing down when finished.

For straight stitching, use machine embroidery thread top-stitching thread or strong quilting thread so it will be clearly seen.

Start working on the bottom row of the design and move up toward the top of the cuff, which will be the last row you do.

You could add trim, rick-rack, or soutache instead of embroidery, especially on the very geometric designs (like this one). Or, try different color and types of thread.

Stitching on top of the copied design - narrow zigzag.

Adding new colors.

Finished cuff (this is a sample made on a cuff facing), but that's the design.  I like it! Maybe time to try it on a real pair of Sarouelles.