January 09, 2023 3 Comments on 114 Chinese Jacket Sew Along
by Esi Hutchinson
Folkwear recently made 114 Chinese Jacket into a PDF pattern as well as updating the size range to XS-3XL. This pattern features 3 jacket views with 3 different lengths (short and fingertip length for Views A and B and short, fingertip length and long (mid-calf) for View C). We are excited to be able to offer the pattern as a PDF (it has been often requested) and to have a larger size range.
This sew along will focus on View B with the fingertip length for the Jacket, but will aide you on the other views and lengths of this jacket. View B is fully lined, has facings on the outside, and incorporates all the sewing techniques all the views have to offer. I will be eliminating the piping trim as well as the embroidery embellishment since the fabric chosen for this jacket is has its own flair.
This pattern incorporates decorative facings, trims, and embroidery designs traditional to the Chinese culture, though some have also been fitted in a more western context because of history of trade, war, and peace. In addition to the research given in the pattern (historic information, lore, and traditional embellishments), we encourage you to continue to research and gain respect for what this culture and history has allowed Folkwear to share with the world.
On that note, lets begin!
To make View B of this Jacket, you need to pick an outer layer fabric and a lining fabric. If you want to make your own frog closures or bias for contrasting piping (if you are using them - instructions for this are in the pattern, but I won't be showing that in this tutorial), you will need additional contrasting fabric.
Fabric suggestions for this pattern include silk, or silk-like synthetics, medium and light-weight cotton, or even lightweight wool. For linings you can use lightweight silk or cotton. Since the front and back are cut as one piece, it is best to not use fabric that has a one-way design or nap. If you happen to strongly desire to use a fabric like that, we suggest you use the same "hack" Cynthia did when making the 122 Hong Kong Cheongsam with a directional print.
I chose a teal brocade we had in the shop and a pink silk dupioni for the contrasting facings. For the lining I used an organic cotton voile we had in stock in a coordinating teal color.
Other than thread, no other notions are needed for this pattern, but if you are planning to embellish with embroidery or paint (or make frog closures or piping), read the instructions in the pattern for further notions.
Cutting out the pattern
One of the things that is important to do with this pattern is to tape pattern pieces A and B together at the shoulders and cut as one piece with no shoulder seam. This is typical for many traditional clothes from Asia - and it wastes less fabric.
For View B, the facings are on the outside, so using a contrasting fabric is an important design element. When cutting these facings, be sure to place them as indicated on the pattern. Most of them are placed printed side down (this will be important if your facings are one-side print). Also make sure you note which length you are cutting for the facings and for the front/back.
Also, be sure to cut the Overlap (C) with print side down when cutting the lining.
Step One: Front
With right sides together, stitch Front/Backs of Outer Layer together at center back, matching notches. Press seam open. If your fabric unravels a lot use a serger or zig-zag to finish the raw edges.
Stitch Front Overlap C to the left-hand center front edge with right sides together, matching notches. Press seam open (finish if desired).
Step Two: Armband
Instead of applying the flat piping to the armbands or facings I simply pressed under 1/4" (6mm) on unnotched edges.
Baste notched edge of Armband I in place on Sleeve D, 3/8” (1cm) from edge, matching notches, with wrong side of Armband to right side of Sleeve.
Blind-stitch or top stitch folded edge of Armband to Sleeve. I top-stitched on the folded edge.
Right sides together, stitch Sleeve D to Front/Back A/B, matching notches. Press seam toward Sleeve.
Step Three: Side Seams
Fold the Jacket at shoulders, right sides together, and pin underarms and sides of Front and Back together, matching Sleeve seams. Stitch from sleeve cuff to the bottom hem, and stitch again at the underarm curve to reinforce the curve. Clip curves as necessary and press seam open.
Step Four: Jacket Lining
To make the Jacket Lining, follow the steps above (omitting the facings), but attach Front Overlap C to right-hand center front edge, right sides together. Omit the armband step.
Lay Outer Layer, turned inside out, on table (or floor), with Back up and Sleeves spread out. Lay Lining on top of Outer Layer, also turned inside out, but with Front up.
Outer Layer and Lining will be back-to-back.
TO HOLD LINING IN PLACE: Spread side and underarm seam allowances open. Pin Front seam allowances of Lining and Outer Layer together and stay-stitch by machine- or hand-basting 1/4” (6mm) from raw edges of Sleeve and side seam allowances, leaving the underarm curve free. The idea is to stitch the seam allowances together so that the lining stays in place when turned inside the jacket.
Turn the Lining right side out to the inside while turning outer layer right side out as well. Smooth layers together carefully and pin raw edges of Outer Layer and Lining together.
Machine- or hand-baste layers together at neckline, cuff, side overlap, and bottom of Jacket, stitching 3/8” (1cm) from raw edges.
Finish right-hand center front edge by turning under both layers 1/4” (6mm), turning under again 1/4” (6mm), and stitching. You are just creating a narrow hem here.
Right sides together, stitch Neck Facings E together at center back, matching notches.
Stitch left center front of Neck Facing E to unnotched straight center front end of Overlap Top Facing F. Press seams open.
Finish unnotched edge of Neck Facing/Overlap Top Facing with pressing under 1/4" (6mm) or with bias piping (instructions are in the pattern). Press seam toward Facing.
Finish Overlap Side Facing G by pressing under 1/4" (6mm), or piping, in same way on unnotched edge. Right sides together, stitch mitered ends of Overlap Facings F and G together, matching notches.
Press under 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance on either end, at neck E and at mitered bottom end of G Piece.
With right side of Facings to Lining of Jacket, pin raw edges together, carefully matching center back and front seams and notches 5, 6, and 7. Stitch as pinned, maintaining an even 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance.
TO JOIN HEM FACINGS
1. Stitch two opposite Hem Facing Pieces J at notched ends, right sides together, to form Back Hem Facing.
2. Stitch remaining J Pieces on both unnotched end of Back Hem Facing.
3. Stitch Overlap Hem Facing K to J on left-hand side (when right side up), matching notches. Press seams open.
Finish long unnotched edge with pressing under 1/4" (6mm), or bias piping, I did above. Press under notched raw short end of J by 1/2” (13mm).
With right side of Facings to Lining of Jacket, pin raw bottom edges together, matching seams and double notches. Stitch.
Step Six: Cuff Facings and Finishing
Finish unnotched edge of Cuff Facings H in same way as other Facings. Right sides together, stitch ends of each Cuff Facing together. Press seam open.
Slip Cuff Facing over Sleeve with right side of Facing to Lining of Sleeve. Pin, matching double notches and underarm seams. Stitch.
TO FINISH ALL FACINGS: Trim seam allowances of outer layer only (as you can see in the photo below), leaving full 1/2” (13mm) on Facing. Clip at curves and trim corners. Turn Facings to outside of jacket and press. Attach Facings to Outer Layer by blind-stitching under pressed edge (or with piping), or top stitch or slip stitch by hand (which is what I did). Take care not to catch Lining if you are blind stitching or slip stitching. Stitch along all inner edges and mitered corners.
Turn facing H to the outer layer, Slipstitch pressed under edge (or piped edge) to outer layers, or topstitch which I did here on the sleeve.
Step Seven: Collar
The Mandarin collar is optional. We recommend adding a layer of interfacing if you are using it to provide a bit more structure to the collar. Stitch collar L pieces together right sides together all the way around, leaving open between stars. Trim seam allowances and corners.
Turn right side out and turn in the open ends between the dots and press. Loosely slip stitch the collar onto the neckline of the jacket. Traditionally, this is done so that the collar can easily be taken off and washed (or replaced) when needed.
Step Eight: Closures
If you don't want to buy or make your own frog closures you can use snaps (as I did). Use the frog placements on the Overflap piece C to place your frogs or snaps. Transfer those marks on the right side of the jacket.
Here is the final 114 Chinese Jacket View B Fingertip Length.
That is all there is to it! Show us what you make with this pattern in our Customer Gallery or social media!
Folkwear owner, Molly shows off how this coat looks. I love the contrasting facings (but would choose a fabric that presses better next time!). It makes a really beautiful coat!