147 Norwegian Bunad Skirt Sew Along

April 28, 2025 2 Comments on 147 Norwegian Bunad Skirt Sew Along

by Esi Hutchinson

Welcome to our second-to-last sew-along for the 147 Norwegian Bunad, our newest Folkwear pattern! Today, I will show you how to make the Bunad Skirt! 

We have already gone through the blouse and vest sew-along, which you can find here: Blouse Sew-Along and Vest Sew-Along.  

Each region in Norway has its own unique Bunad design, with specific colors and patterns that have been passed down. Read more about the history of the bunad and our pattern in our blog post. Whether it's the bold reds and blues of the Hardanger region or the soft pastels of Telemark, each color palette represents a sense of pride and belonging to a specific community. It's a way for Norwegians, and those of Norwegian descent, to express their heritage and connection to their roots.

While tradition is a key aspect of Bunad skirts, there is also room for creativity and personal expression. Some modern interpretations of Bunad skirts feature unique color combinations that add a contemporary twist to the traditional garment. This blend of old and new allows for a fresh take on this design, and can make beautiful festdrakt, or festival dresses.

In this sew-along, I’ll walk you through the steps of creating the basic pleated skirt from our pattern. It's important to note that for traditional bunads, as well as folkdrakts and festdrakts (folk or festival dresses), the skirts can be personalized and adorned with intricate embroidery or trim, signifying where in the region you're from and how it connects to your family, or just to add decoration to your outfit. If you’d like to add embroidery or trim, be sure to plan it out and incorporate it after the skirt has been sewn.

Like the bunad blouse and vest, this skirt is also easy to sew. Add your own personal touches through embroidery and other embellishments. For more details and embroidery designs, check out the History and Detailing section in the pattern!

Let's get started.

Fabric

For the bunad skirt, medium to heavyweight fabrics like wool, cotton, linen, or silk are recommended. Wool is the traditional choice. Be sure to research the fabric type and color that best suits the specific bunad or costume you're creating. While skirts are commonly made in red or black, colors like blue, green, and other dark tones can also be used. Sometimes brochades are used.  For this sample, I chose a royal blue medium-weight cotton muslin. Remember to wash and press your fabric according to its type before cutting out the pattern.

Sizing

Choose the size that best fits you from the sizing and yardage charts (as well as the "finished measurements"). The skirt is meant to be fitted at the waist, so using the waist measurement is the best way to find the right size for the skirt. I am a Medium in Folkwear's grade rule for skirts and pants at the waist, so I made a size medium for this skirt. 

Seam Finishes

To finish your seams while you're sewing, you can overcast, zig-zag or use pinking shears to finish the raw edges. French seams or turning the raw edges under and stitching work for this pattern also. I serged the raw edges of the seams for this skirt. 

Cutting Out Your Pattern

There are four pattern pieces for the skirt (N-Q).  Cut one Waistband O on the lengthwise or crosswise grain.  Cut one Placket Q.  

The same skirt Piece N is used for the front and back of the skirt. Cut two for the back and cut one on the fold for the front for all sizes if you're using fabric that is more than 52” (132cm) wide.

On fabric less than 52" (132cm) wide fabric for sizes XS-SM cut two for the back and cut one on the fold for the front. For sizes MD-2XL, you will need to cut two for the back and cut two for the front, making sure to add 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance to the center front on both front N pieces so that you can sew a center front seam.

Cut one waistband O, four pocket pieces P, and one placket Q.

Since I am using 45" (115cm) wide fabric, I cut two skirt front pieces, adding a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance at the center front.

Check the finished measurements to see if you want to make lengthening/shortening changes.  If you want to lengthen or shorten the skirt, add length (or shorten) at the bottom hem edge. 

Look at the cutting layouts in the pattern to find the one that is best for your size and fabric width. The layouts are for fabric with or without nap, pile, or one-way designs. If the pattern pieces in the cutting layouts in our pattern are shaded, it needs to be placed with the printed side down.  All pattern pieces should be placed on the right side of your fabric.  Cut out the pattern carefully according to the instructions. 

Be sure you transfer all the markings, which are dots and squares, and pleat lines.  It may also help to label your pieces so you know right and left and right side and wrong side of fabric.  

Sewing the Skirt

Front and Back

First, if you have cut two Fronts, sew the Fronts together at the center front with right sides together.  

Now, you have the option to gather the waist instead of using pleats.  Pleating is more traditional, but a gathered skirt can be found in some festdrakt or folkdrakt, and can sometimes be quicker or easier than pleating.  If you want to gather the waist, place two rows of gathering stitches at the skirt front/back waistline, one at 1/4” (6mm) from the raw edge and another at 1/2” (13mm). Skip to  PLACKET to continue.

To make the pleats, transfer the pleat lines to the right side of the skirt Front and Back. With the right side of the fabric facing up, match the legs of the pleat, folding the center of the pleat to the inside of the skirt. The pleats should fall towards the center front or center back. 

 
Pleat markings on Skirt Back.

Folding the pleat leg to move it over to match the other pleat leg.

On the back skirt, with right sides together, stitch the skirt back pieces together at the center back, matching the squares and bottom edges. Stitch just from the square to the bottom edge. Press the seam open or to one side and finish.

Clip the seam allowance at the square. This will help lay the seam flat when attaching the placket to the back opening.

Placket

Press up 1/2” (13mm) to the wrong side on one long edge of the Placket Q. 

Fold the placket in half, with right sides together, with the short ends together and fingerpress (press the seam with your fingers to give a light crease).  This helps turn the placket later.  Open the placket back up.

Place the right side of the long, unfolded edge of the placket to the wrong side of the skirt back. Pin the placket to the back opening, matching the squares and the skirt waist edge to the short ends of the placket. Stitch from the waist to the square, and continue stitching to the opposite side of the waist. Trim the seams to reduce the bulk and press the seam towards the placket.  The best way to do this is to open the back opening so it is flat or nearly flat and proceed as if it is a straight line.

Fold the placket in half lengthwise at the foldline with wrong sides together. The folded edge of the placket should cover the previous stitching line. Topstitch close to the folded edge.

On the wearer's left side only, fold the placket to the inside of the skirt back. Press the placket in place and baste the placket at the waist edge of the left skirt back within the seam allowance.  This allows the placket to close and the skirt back seams to line up easily.

Pockets (optional)

Pockets are not really a traditional part of a bunad.  There is an outer waist pocket which can be a highly decorative part of the costume, but side seam pockets are not usually part of this outfit.  However, we know how popular (and useful) pockets are so we added a pattern piece and instructions for adding side seam pockets.  You may use them or choose to leave them off.  If you do not want to add pockets, skip ahead to sewing the front and back together (stitch the front to the back at the side seams with right sides together).  

If you are adding pockets, zig-zag, overcast, or serge the four pocket pieces on the outer edge.

With the right sides together, pin one pocket piece to both sides of the front skirt; match the dots on the pockets to the dots on the side of the skirt front.  Stitch just within the seam allowance and press the pocket seams towards the pockets. 

Understitch the seam allowance to the pocket pieces by pressing the seam allowance towards the pockets and stitching close to the previously stitched seam, but within the seam allowance.  This will help keep the pocket from rolling to the outside and will keep the seam neat.

Do all of those same steps with the skirt back and the other two pocket pieces.

Front and Back Together

With right sides together, stitch the front and back skirt pieces at the side seams, matching pockets and double notches. Start stitching at the waist edge of the skirt.  Stitch to the small dot at the top of the pocket, pivot and stitch around the outer edge of the pockets to the large dot at the bottom of the pocket.  Pivot and stitch down to the bottom edge of the skirt.  Be sure not to catch pleats in the stitching.

Clip the seam allowance on the back skirt seam to the dots on the pockets (don't clip through stitching) and press the seams open; press the pockets toward the front.

Waistband

You can interface the waistband if you like.  Interfacing is very helpful for lighter weight fabrics or fabric that might need some extra support.  Interfacing can help the waistband keep its shape.  Attach interfacing to one side of the waistband (from the foldline to one side), and trim the interfacing away from the seam allowances to reduce bulk in the seams.  I did not use interfacing in my sample. 

Press under 1/2” (13mm) on the long unnotched edge and on both short edges of the Waistband O.  Make sure to pay attention to the left and right sides of the waistband marked on the pattern piece O.  It is a good idea to mark which side is left and right and which is the right and wrong side of the fabric. 

With the right side of the waistband to the wrong side of the skirt, stitch the waistband to the skirt, matching the center front notches and side seams of the skirt to the side notches on the waistband. The waistband should end (with the folded-over ends) at the opening on each side of the back placket.

If using gathered stitches on the skirt waistline, pull gathers to fit the waistband, matching notches as stated above.

Stitch and press the seam allowance towards the waistband.

Fold the waistband in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together, with the folded long edge placed just over the previously stitched seam line, matching the short pressed edges.

Topstitch close to pressed edges and ends.

Add a buttonhole on the wearer's left side of the waistband and a button on the right side. Sew on snaps to the placket to secure it closed. Or leave it open.  

I used a 3/4 (1.9cm) button and kept the buttonhole close to the back edge.  

Some traditional bunads actually have this placket in the front of the skirt and it is then hidden by the apron.  Then you can even sew the vest to the skirt at the waist and the skirt/vest then becomes a dress. You can do the same with this pattern.  The skirt can be made and worn with the back to the front as they are basically the same pattern piece. 

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