Young African american woman wearing #271 Folkwear Sunset Wrap Pattern.  Looking over shoulder outdoors.  Wrap made in grey cotton gauze.

The 271 Sunset Wrap is a quick-to-sew garment that will allow you to make a beautiful, useful garment in less than an hour!  So, this sew-along (our first), will be pretty quick!

I like using a fabric with good drape for this pattern, and I've made it from wool, wool/silk blend (my favorite), rayon, silk, and cotton gauze (which will be used in this sew along).  I have even made it from knit fabric.  With knit fabric, seam allowances and even edges don't need to be finished, so precise cutting is key if you don't want to hem.  With knit fabrics, seams should be serged or sewn with a zig-zag or stretch stitch.  

First, cut out or trace your pattern pieces.  The wrap is one size and should fit most people XS to 3XL, so there are not grade lines to worry about!  Make sure to get the notches and dot marked if tracing your pattern.

Then, lay your pattern pieces on top of your fabric, which should be laid out with the right side up.  If you lay the fabric with the wrong side up OR lay the pattern pieces down with the right sides down, you will create a left arm sleeve wrap (rather than a right arm sleeve wrap). Which is fine - do what you want to do! Again, transfer notches and dot.

Using weights or pins and sharp rotary cutter or scissors, cut out the pattern pieces. 

A note on finishing seams: All seams are 1/2" for this pattern. You can finish seams a number of ways for this pattern.  I like using a French seam for light weight fabrics (for a great tutorial, go here).  I have also bound edges with bias tape on heavier fabrics (Hong Kong finish), and have turned under a scant 1/4" of the seam allowance and sewn down, and have serged the seam allowances.  You can also zig-zag over the seam allowances (or overcast stitch) for a quick and easy finish.

French seam with hem

French seam with hem (above)

seam allowance tucked under and pressed with 1/4" seam allowance

Seam allowance turned under - here I am starting to fold under and press a scant 1/4" of the seam allowance.

finished seam allowance pressed under and stitched to garment

Here is the finished seam allowance - both sides pressed under and stitched to the garment.

serged seam allowance

And, serged seam allowance, as well as the turned under and sewed seam allowance (above).

Shoulder seam:  Starting with right sides together and matching notches, sew the front to the back at shoulder seam, easing front into back at neckline. This means you will have to stretch the front piece at the neck line, and sew slowly, to "ease" the the two pieces together while you sew.  Sometimes it can be helpful to hand baste this seam (or this part of the seam) before sewing so you don't have to ease while sewing on a machine.  Easing this neckline will create a shaped neck which will fit the neck better. Press the seam open and finish as desired. 

Side Seam:  Next, with right sides together and matching notches, sew side seam from hem to diamond, and backstitch at diamond. 

Clip the front and back pieces at diamond a scant 1/2" in seam allowance, making sure not to cut through the stitches or past seam allowance. Press seam open and finish as desired.

Miter Corners and Hem:  Turn hem under 1/2" along border of front and back pieces and press, but do not turn under and press the diagonal corners.

Turn hem under 1/2" along border of front and back pieces and press, but do not turn under and press the diagonal corners.

You will sew miter corners on front and back pieces by first folding diagonal corners so that the right side is in. 

sew miter corners on front and back pieces by first folding diagonal corners so that the right side is in

Sew the folded corner with 1/2" seam allowance. Press to set. Trim the point close to stitching to reduce fabric bulk in the corner.

Sew the folded corner with 1/2" seam allowance. Press to set. Trim the point close to stitching to reduce fabric bulk in the corner.

Turn right side out and push out corner with a corner turner or knitting needle.

Turn right side out and push out corner with a corner turner or knitting needle.

Turn hem up 1 1/2" along border and press. 

Turn hem up 1 1/2" along border and press

Edge stitch hem 1/8", easing around shoulder/neckline seam (again, stretching and sewing slowly to "ease" in the stitches so you have a shaped neckline).  You may want to increase your stitch length to 3 – 4 (or higher) for a smoother finish.

Edge stitch hem 1/8", easing around shoulder/neckline seam (again, stretching and sewing slowly to "ease" in the stitches so you have a shaped neckline).  You may want to increase your stitch length to 3 – 4 (or higher) for a smoother finis

Pinning and easing the hem at the neckline (above).  Note unfinished seams (you should finish your seams before sewing the hem!)

Sleeve: With right sides together, sew underarm seam of sleeve, matching notches.  Press seam open, and finish as desired.  

Turn under hem edge 1/2" and again 1 1/2" and press.  Edgestitch 1/8" (again, you can increase your stitch length for a smoother finish).

Right sides together, match sleeve armhole notch to body shoulder seam, and match sleeve underarm seam to body side seam.  Stitch, making sure to catch both the sleeve and body pieces in your stitching at the underarm seam.  Press seam toward sleeve, and finish seam as desired.

Right sides together, match sleeve armhole notch to body shoulder seam, and match sleeve underarm seam to body side seam.

Sleeve inserted and stitched.  This (above) shows what the underarm looks like after stitching and before seam is finished.

Sleeve inserted and stitched.  This (above) shows what the underarm looks like after stitching and before seam is finished.

Finished seam of arm (and shoulder)

Finished seam of arm (and shoulder).

 

 

And, that's it!  Such a quick and fun project!  Which means you can decide you need one in the afternoon to go out with that night - and have it!  Or, you can sew up a gift (or two) for a friend at the last minute!