January 10, 2022 2 Comments
Hello, my name is Esi, and I am a Creative Assistant at Folkwear. Today I will be starting a new sew along for making a reversible Jacket using the pattern from the new Folkwear Basics Collection. The great thing about the Basic patterns is that it allows and encourages personal creativity through different embellishment techniques, embroidering, bead work or painting. One could even quilt themselves a Jacket from this pattern (hint: I'll be doing that in another blog next month!). However, this sew along will be more basic with a little twist by making the Jacket reversible. The Basics Jacket comes in sizes XS-3XL - the sizing and finished measurements are stated in the pattern.
First, I selected a fabric that would keep the jacket light and breezy. I used a coral and and off-white linen - one for the outer layer, one for the inner layer. You can choose any fabric that is medium to light weight for this jacket. Even heavier weight fabrics like bottom weight wools or denim would be fine. Since the jacket is seamed around the edges, the bulk can be an issue if the fabric is too heavy. For a reversible jacket, the outer layer and inner layer should be about the same (or the same) weight. If you are making a regular jacket (i.e. not reversible), then you could use a lighter weight fabric for the inner layer. It would be best that the inner layer fabric is the same weight or lighter weight than the outer layer.
Cutting Out the Pattern and Fabric
For the reversible jacket, cut out all of the pattern pieces except for the cuffs in each of the two different colors you have chosen.
You will also need to cut out an extra set of pockets so you will have one set on the inside and one set on the outside of the reversible jacket. You will need to cut 8 pocket pieces rather than just 4. You can cut pocket inside and outside pieces from the same fabric or from different fabric.
For the Cuffs, we will be using half of the original Cuff C and adding a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance to make one Cuff with two different colors. One color will go to one side, the other color will go to the other side - when the jacket is finished.
To do this, take the pattern piece C and draw two lines, one in the center and another 1/2" (13mm) away from the center line. The line 1/2" (13mm) above the center line will be your new cutting line. To be able to use the Cuff pattern piece again, just fold the remainder of the pattern piece to the back at the new cutting line. And remember to transfer the notch mark to your new cutting line.
Now, cut four of Cuff C with the new cutting line: two in one color and two in the other color.
If not making a reversible jacket, you can just cut the cuffs as the pattern says. Or, even if you are making the jacket reversible, you can just choose one color to be the cuff, and not make this adjustment to the cuff. Just cut out cuff as pattern says.
Making this jacket reversible means that we are going to sew the jacket together a little out of order from the pattern.
We will start with the cuffs: with right sides together sew two different color cuff pieces together with a 1/2" (13mm) seam allowance. Trim, and press seams open. repeat step with other Cuff.
Now we are ready to assemble the Jacket.
STEP ONE: JACKET FRONT AND BACK
Staystitch neckline edge on JACKET FRONT/BACK A, from center back to notch 3 on all four pieces. To staystitch, stitch ⅛" (3mm) from seamline within seam allowance, ⅜" (1cm) from raw edge.
With right sides together, sew one set of Front/Back pieces together at the center back seam, matching double notches 1. Press seam open. Repeat with other set of Front/Back pieces.
Stitching center back seam of white linen layer
With right sides together, stitch Front to Back of one color at underarm/side seams, matching notches 2 and 5. Trim seam allowances, clip seam allowances along curved underarm area, and press seams open. Repeat, with other color.
Stitched underarm/side seam of coral linen layer.
STEP TWO: POCKETS
With right sides together, sew two POCKET B pieces together, leaving open 2" (5cm) to turn on one side of the pocket. Trim seam allowances and corners, notch curves on the bottom of pockets, turn right side out, and press gently. Slipstitch opening closed. Repeat with remaining Pocket pieces. If using different fabrics for the inside and outside of the pocket, be sure to match them correctly (i.e. one inside fabric to one outside fabric).
Optional: Top stitch close to top edge of pocket (side that is not sewn to jacket).
Two sets of pockets. One will go on one side of the jacket and one of the other. I also had one more of each of these - for two pockets to be on one side and two on the other - for a reversible jacket.
Decide where you want to place the pockets. I have chosen to place them straight up and down and not angled as the pattern indicates.
On one jacket layer, baste pockets to right side of front. Stitch close to outer edge of pockets. Backstitch at each end. Tie off thread ends at dots. Bartack at opening edges for a more secure pocket opening.
White pockets on coral layer.
Coral pockets on white layer
STEP THREE: LINING
Turn one jacket right side out and slip into the remaining jacket, so that right sides are together.
White layer inside coral layer. you can see that I have pockets on both layers.
Stitch along neckline and hem edges, matching center back and side seams, and notches 3. Trim seam allowances.
Everything is lined up nicely and I just stitched around the edges of the neck, front, and back.
Turn the jacket right side out through one sleeve, and press the neckline and hem edges gently.
On right side of jacket, topstitch along neckline and hem edges. Topstitching will keep the jacket layers from shifting much.
Jacket right side out and topstitched.
Baste raw edges of sleeves together, within seam allowance, with wrong sides together, matching side seams and notches 4.
Sleeve layers basted together (along where arrow is pointing).
STEP FOUR: CUFFS
With right sides together, stitch each SLEEVE BINDING C piece together at short ends. Press seams open.
Press up ½" (13mm) seam allowance along one edge; trim seam allowance to ¼" (6mm).
Turning up 1/2" (13mm) of the coral fabric on this cuff piece.
With right sides together, stitch binding to sleeve end, matching notches 4 and seam lines. Trim seam allowance and press seam toward binding. I made this jacket so that the white cuff side showed on the coral side of the jacket; and the coral side of the cuff showed on the white side of the jacket.
This is the inside of the cuff. Cuff is sewn to the sleeve and seam is pressed to toward the cuff.
You can now turn the pressed edge of binding to the inside of sleeve so that it slightly overlaps previous stitching and baste in place. You will be folding the cuff on the stitching line created in the first step when you put the two colors together. On right side, stitch in the well (i.e., stitch in the ditch) of the sleeve/binding seam, making sure to catch the binding on the inside with stitches. Or you can slipstitch the binding on the inside. I stitched in the ditch, making sure my bobbin thread matched the color of the cuff below it.
Stitching in the ditch - stitching the cuff down.
You now are finished with your reversible Jacket! Pockets on both sides, this is a fun jacket to be creative with.
January 11, 2022
Could the pattern 129 Japanese Hapi and Haori be adapted to reversible?
Therisa L Rogers
January 18, 2022
Laura, I think it would be even easier to adapt the Hapi, given that there is no cuff.