January 17, 2023
Our new 510 Passionflower Lingerie Top expands our size range to 4XL (58" bust). And since this pattern relies so much on the bust fit, we also offer each size with three cup options (B, C, and D). We want to help you with sewing fit, so this post will show how to measure to get your correct size and how to make a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) in case you are an A cup (as I am).
To figure out which size, and cup size, is best for you, look at the size chart. The bust measurement is going to be the most important for this pattern, but you can also look at the finished measurements to make sure the empire waist (just below your bust, or mid-ribcage) will fit. I am on the larger end of a size Small, so I usually check finished measurements and cut a size Small. If I need to adjust to add a little bit at the hips, I will grade out to the next size up, but with this pattern there is so much ease in the hips (it's basically a circle skirt) that I don't need to worry about that.
To find your bust cup measurement, you need to take your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement. The difference between the two gives you your cup size. If there is a 2" difference, cut a B cup; if a 3" difference, cut a C cup; if a 4" difference, cut a D cup. So for instance, if your high bust measures 34" and your full bust measures 37", you will cut a Medium size from the C cup front piece (37-34 = 3" and 37" bust is our size Medium).
High bust measurement
Full bust measurement
The difference between my full bust and high bust measurement is 1", which is an A cup. So, for this pattern, the B cup will be a bit large and can have some bagginess that I might not like. So I am going to show you how to make a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) for this bodice piece in case you need to make this adjustment also. I highly recommend making a muslin (or two or three) to make sure the fit is how you want it to be. Every body is different. Your bust apex may be different, or your shape may need other adjustments. A muslin will help you get a better fit even after this SBA.
Small Bust Adjustment for Passionflower Top
First, it helps to outline the darts in the size you are making with a colored pencil or marker. I used yellow below. Then draw a line through the center of the center dart, up through the dart point. I drew this is pink below.