February 06, 2020 3 Comments on Flamenco Rose Tutorial
by Cynthia Anderson, Folkwear Creative Assistant
With Valentine’s Day literally just around the corner and the thought of spring inspiring me, my sewing aspirations have turned a bit romantic as I start to day dream of the clothes I want to make and wear.
What better project to satisfy romantic yearnings, as well as creating a nod to spring, than the Fabric Rose Accessory featured in the Folkwear Flamenco Pattern.
This project is easy to make and lends itself to so many possibilities. Of course, roses say Valentine’s Day, as well as notions of spring, gardens, weddings, parties . . . . This project is simply the romantic touch only roses can conjure up. Besides being easy to make with endless possibilities, you can practically make this project from scraps of fabric.
To get started you can use the pattern piece provided in the Flamenco Pattern, labeled Rose “Z”. This pattern piece is quite large and would make a stunning statement piece be it for a dress, a purse, or even a pillow. You can make your rose any size you like. Use the “Z” pattern piece as a guide or make your own. Your rose size will vary depending on the width and length of the strips you cut. Cutting the piece longer will make a fuller flower, cut the piece wider for a larger flower.
Once you decide on the size of roses you want to make, you can cut out your fabric using a pattern as a guide or simply cut out your fabric freehand. This rose looks great cut on the fold as the pattern instructions suggests or it can be cut out as a single layer of fabric as well. Ribbon and seam binding work great too! When using mere scraps of fabric there is no excuse not to experiment.
I chose scraps of silk dupioni left over from I dress I made for myself as a starting point for my Romantic Spring Rose Corsage. I wanted to work relatively small and vary the sizes of my roses to make my corsage. I ended up using scraps of silk haboti, linen, and silk organza to make additional roses. You can see the great effect of using different fabrics to make the different roses in the photo above and at the end of this tutorial.
To get started, using the Rose “Z” pattern, fold fabric in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. Do not press the fold… in order to make the edges of your rose softer. I am showing the "how-to" photos below with a blue fabric for the rose, set over a white fabric for contrast (sorry the fabric is wrinkled!).
Turn the lower corner of your fabric strip with the squared off edge (right angle) upward to create a 45 degree angle as shown.
Now sew a LONG gathering stitch (by hand or on a sewing machine) along the raw edge, about 1/4 “ from the edge. You might want to try making the gathering stitches in three of four sections, rather than trying to gather up the entire length with one thread. I did find this helpful because my thread would break when I attempted to do just one gathering thread.
Next, start at the pointed end, draw up the gather stitches… roll the strip around itself. This is where you will want to do a bit of experimentation in shaping your rose to see what effect you like.
As you roll up the strip, hand sew the rose to itself, using the gathering stitches as a guide. Try different techniques with the look of your rose, pull the gathering stitches lightly for a more tightly closed flower, and pull tighter for a fuller rose. Do a little of both for a more varied look. I used a small hot glue gun to secure my rose on itself. This technique allowed me to shape my rose more quickly because I am not stopping to sew. As with most things concerning sewing, you will find the techniques that works best for you.
Continue to gather, roll and stitch the entire strip of fabric. I manipulated the shape and edges with each small turn. Trim away any thread ends and frayed edges.
To finish off the underside of your rose trim a bit of the fabric to make it easier to turn under. Secure the base with a round circle made of felt or fabric to create a backing. Iron a bit of fusible interfacing on the wrong side of your circle to help give it some stability. Then secure your finishing circle backing to the turned under edges of your rose with a slip stitch - or in my case I used hot glue. The idea in doing this is to cover up the rolled up raw edges and provide a nice finished surface.
You could to attach a pin, barrette, or ribbon, etc. and accessorize any number of things. I ended up attaching my roses to a piece of silk organza and adding a couple of strips of silk dupioni to create ribbons, then I pinned my corsage to a silk scarf to finish off the look of my dress. On some of the rosettes in this corsage, I left the outer edges raw (as opposed to folding the fabric in half so there are no raw edges exposed), and I really like the look of this as well - a bit rustically romantic.
January 23, 2020 4 Comments on Winter Victorian Shirt Dress
A year or so ago, a customer sent me a photo of her wearing the 202 Victorian Shirt that she had made into a dress. It was made of a large red check or plaid pattern and it looked absolutely adorable on her as a winter dress with boots. And, I have had that dress on my mind ever since. And this winter I decided to make one for myself!
I wanted the dress to be warm - warm enough that I could wear it cut above my knee without leggings and still be warm on a mild day. I made it out of flannel because . . . it's warm, but also because there are so many really pretty flannels available (hello, Robert Kaufman). I decided on one of the Robert Kaufman flannels from Hart's Fabrics. They have had a bunch of different ones that I have fallen for this winter, but I liked the blue/grey mix for wearing on myself.
This Victorian Shirt was a delight to make. I used the X-Small size (this shirt is roomy) and I didn't even extend the length. The Victorian Shirt was traditional very long, tucked into trousers, but also providing lots of modesty when dressing. The pattern can easily be shortened, or lengthened into a longer dress (or nightgown).
I loved the simple little pleats in the back and at the wrists. I like the bit of interest the bib adds to the front, but it could be left off if desired. I cut the bib on the bias to changed up the plaid a little (as well as the back yoke - though cutting it on the bias helped utilize all my fabric). The front placket was quite easy as well (just pay close attention to which side is doing what as well as right sides vs. wrong sides facing). I only put in one button on the front, as that was all it really seemed to need for me. And, I added a button to the sleeve placket opening (to prevent cold air from entering!), and the sleeve placket is simply made from the underarm hem. I also added (silk!) pockets to this dress - just drafting them into the side seams at a place that felt comfortable.
This dress is really warm, very comfortable, and I love the way it looks!
You can make your own with the 202 Victorian Shirt pattern!
December 31, 2019 7 Comments on 2019 In Review!
It is the time of year to talk about the old and look forward to the new. Here at Folkwear, we spend the last week of the old year looking at inventory (and counting), reviewing what worked and what did not, and reflecting on the past year's accomplishments. And then we spend the first week of the new year planning for all the things to achieve and work towards in the next year!
So, I will lay out a some of our 2019 work - what we did at Folkwear - to help usher out the old year! What were some of your favorite accomplishments of 2019?
New Office! First, maybe our favorite thing was getting a new office/studio space. In April, we moved to a much larger place (with heating and air!) that fits all our inventory, our samples, a sewing/design area, an office area, a (small) library, and a small "store front". Customers can now visit us and buy patterns, notions, and fabric at our store! We have been hosting local sewing groups and have had a few open houses and love it when Folkwear fans come by! This is how it looked just before we moved in (at least this half of the space). I should do a tour of the studio soon!
Growth in sales. It has been great to see Folkwear pattern sales steadily increase. I love that we are reaching more sewists, costumers, and creators with these informative, interesting, and beautiful patterns.
We launched a small Folkwear Clothing line, and that has been fun, though I found that running a clothing line requires a lot more time and effort than I (or anyone at Folkwear currently) has time to give it. We are definitely focused on patterns and sewing!
YouTube Channel and videos. This has been a fun thing to start. Our patterns have so much information in them that I felt having a YouTube channel to share some techniques, show the patterns, and show off the garments would be a great asset to sewists. There are a few videos with techniques specific to our patterns (getting the yoke oriented correctly for 142 Old Mexico Dress and sewing the Padded Jacket for 112 Japanese Field Clothing). Some videos show embellishment techniques, such as embroidery stitches from the Romanian Blouse. And, we just started a series to show off our sample garments for featured patterns each month.
Patterns:
Tutorials:
My Favorite Folkwear Makes: I love (and am pretty much living in) my 137 Australian Drover's Coat. My 226 Princess Slip dress is at the bottom of this post. I made an amazing 251 Varsity Jacket from cashmere scraps and silk (why do I not have pictures!?!?). I absolutely loved the Padded Jacket I made from the 112 Japanese Field Clothing. It is stunning. I also enjoyed the very simple Romanian Blouse pattern I made (pic at top) from some gauzy cotton.
Travels: We led our first group trip to NYC - fabric shopping and museum hopping. It was a lot of fun! We will probably do this tour every other year. We may do an Asheville sewing tour this fall! I also traveled to Romania in September for an amazing trip to see textiles and ride horses.
Other fun things: I attended (and Folkwear sponsored) the first Asheville Frocktails! So fun! I spoke at a local sewing group's Folkwear garments show at the Asheville Quilt Show. And, I have sewn quite a few samples for new patterns that we will have coming out in 2020!
Finally, we have hired a new assistant for Folkwear who will be doing lots of sewing, instruction writing, tutorials, etc. in the new year. I will introduce Cynthia in the coming weeks. We are so excited to have her coming on!
December 11, 2019
Here is a simple and sweet pattern from the many that are included in the 302 Victoria's Boudoir pattern from Folkwear's home wear collection. Our pattern includes three different shapes for the sachet (we are only including two shapes here). Optional lace trims the outside of the sachet. And, this is a great pattern to try out those rarely-used embroidery stitches on your machine. You can add pretty stitching along the sides of the sachet before putting it together and make this a really beautiful and special project. You can also hand embroider initials to the sachet for a unique and special gift for someone. Our pattern includes templates for beautiful Victorian style letters. A romantic and easy project to sew a thoughtful gift or stocking stuffer (or host gift) for those on your holiday gift list. Or to use in your own clothes drawers!
I made the sachets above as gifts, and even embroidered one with my daughter's initials.
All these instructions, plus LOTS more are in our 302 Victoria's Boudoir pattern (40% off all this month).
CUTTING GUIDE FOR SACHETS
The pattern pieces, and the embroidery designs, are found in the file Pattern Pieces 302 Sachets. They can be printed on two pieces of regular printer paper from a home printer. First download the file to print the pattern (we made it to fit A4 paper too). This file also has an embroidery design and all the monogram letters.
For the Square Sachet you will need Piece R.
For the Round Sachet you will need Piece S.
If you plan to embroider your Sachet, do so before cutting pattern pieces from fabric. Trace outline and embroidery motif onto fabric before cutting the pattern out from the fabric. Allow enough fabric around traced outline to fit into embroidery hoop. Or, if you are using embroidery stitches on your sewing machine, it can help to draw a line that you want the embroidery to follow. And, make sure you stabilize the area where you will be stitching with embroidery stabilizer paper or interfacing. You should be able to tear away the stabilizer after embroidering. After embroidering, cut pieces from fabric.
SEWING GUIDE FOR SACHETS
NOTE: Shading denotes right side of fabric.
Prepare scented floral Potpourri for your sachet as explained below. (Or you may buy ready-made potpourri or lavender)
Instructions for both Sachet shapes are the same. The square sachet will be illustrated here.
Right sides together, stitch two (unembroidered) sachet pieces together as a lining, leaving an opening between boxes for stuffing.
Turn right side out and press.Fill as full as possible with Potpourri. Slip-stitch opening together.
Optional: Baste pre-gathered lace to one remaining sachet piece, right sides together, with edge of lace on seam line, turning under first short edge of lace ½”/13mm. (If you have embroidered your Sachet, this will be the embroidered piece.)
Right sides together, stitch remaining sachet pieces (this will be the embroidered piece if using) together, sandwiching optional lace, leaving an opening between boxes. Turn right side out.
Insert stuffed Lining into lace-trimmed Sachet. Slip-stitch opening together.
You can also make this sachet with just two fabric pieces from the pattern: Make as for the outer layer of the sachet and fill with lavender or potpourri.
POTPOURRI
"The drying of fragrant, natural ingredients and blending them into a potpourri became popular in the sixteenth century, when sanitation was primitive at best. Chamomile, lavender and fennel leaves were often sprinkled around the rooms of a castle to cover up unpleasant odors. In those days, herbs were also thought to possess mysterious, strange, and powerful properties. Aromatic leaves were supposedly able to cast out demons and save lives.In the 1500's, a Swiss pharmacist theorized that herbs embody the 'quinta essentia', the fifth essence, which medieval philosophers believed was the highest element after earth, air, fire, and water. Aromatic botanical compounds commonly became known as 'essential oils.'The term is still used to indicate pure fragrance oils such as those that are added to the ingredients in... potpourri to enhance and extend their natural scents.Today, the herbs, flowers, spices, and essential oils...have no magic powers - they just look and smell wonderful, adding a decorator touch to any room with a delightful, fresh fragrance."--Used by permission of Patti Howard of Victorian Fancies.
RECIPE FOR POTPOURRI:
This recipe comes to us courtesy of Patti Howard of Victorian Fancies.
1 c. dried rose petals
½ c. dried, crushed geranium leaves 1 tbsp. dried, slivered lemon rind
1 tbsp. whole allspice 3 crushed bay leaves
6 drops Rose-Geranium oil (available at many health food/craft stores)
Mix, sniff, and enjoy!
Note: The essential oil is not required, but it will prolong and enhance the natural fragrance of the ingredients. If you use the oil, it is nice to mix everything in a plastic bag, close it tightly, and place in a cool, dark place for a few days, shaking it up occasionally to blend the oil with the leaves and petals. This procedure can be repeated whenever the fragrance begins to fade.
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
Use this as a guide to select the right stitch for each particular motif:
Use 3 strands of embroidery floss or size 8 Pearl cotton.
Satin Stitch
This looks like the simplest of all embroidery stitches, with its over-and-over stitch, but in reality, it requires practice, patience and even tension. Stitch placement must be precise, entering and exiting exactly on the motif outline with the same distance between parallel stitches.
To fill in body of motif, work a series of straight stitches perpendicular (or slightly angled) to the transferred outline and parallel to one another.
Fig. 5 shows the satin stitch: out at A, in at B, up at C.
Where the design narrows down to a single line (as on the monograms), you will not be able to work the stitches parallel, but will have to stagger them. Fig. 6 shows an exaggerated scheme to handle the curves. (These stitches will closely resemble the stem stitch.)
Stem Stitch
Bring thread up at A- down at B- and up at C which is halfway between A and B (Fig. 7). Be sure to keep your needle on the same side each time. (Fig. 8).
For the downloadable PDF version of this pattern, go here.
December 05, 2019 12 Comments on New coat for me!
Dressing for cold weather is not one of my strong suits. I tend to underdress and am cold. I am cold by nature and love warm weather. And, I don't love wearing lots of clothes - like you need to do to stay warm in winter.
And, when thinking about my winter clothes problem (staying warm) and looking at my winter wardobe, I also realized that I want to look (or at least feel) cute in the winter too. And, I don't feel cute when wearing long underwear under baggy jeans with two shirts under an oversized sweater with wool socks and chunky boots. But, that is what I have worn for years working in agriculture. I know there are lots of people who LOVE this look, and I don't mind it, but it's not my favorite. I much prefer skirts or dresses, but then, I'm cold. I hate tights (left over from being forced into ill-fitting tights as a kid), but I don't mind good leggings. I am starting to figure out there are sweater dresses, which I now have a few of and am actually warm on the days I wear them! And, I am finding leggings that I like. I made my favorite pair from this Seamwork pattern. Anyway, I'm starting to figure out my winter wardrobe.
However, my coat situation has not been great either. I have a great, and warm, black ski coat and a warm barn coat, but neither feel "pretty" to me.
This was my situation when I ordered the grey version of this Merchant & Mills jaquard cotton from Oak Fabrics the other week. I fell in love with the fabric from afar and ordered two yards thinking I'd think of something to do with it. It is not quilted, but woven with several layers of thread, and the top layer is a fine cotton. I loved it!
When the fabric arrived, I thought it would make a perfect jacket - light-weight but warm, washable, and beautiful. What pattern to use? I quickly settled on our 137 Australian Drover's Coat pattern. View A (the simple version) is quick and easy and uses only a couple of pattern pieces. I barely had enough fabric to make the XS size, and I had to shorten it to upper thigh length and take out a bit at the back and sleeves. I even had to piece scraps together to get the collar, and didn't have enough to do the neck and wrist tabs. But the sizing is very generous and there is plenty of ease! And, I really didn't need the tabs.
So, I cut out the fabric and sewed this coat up in just a few hours! It was such a quick project. A couple of recommendations if working with this fabric and pattern. First, get more fabric ;-). I now want this in a longer coat with the neck tab! Second, the fabric frays easily. I serged all edges before piecing, including edges that are completely enclosed. I would also recommend stay stitching any edges that you need to be stable first, like the neck, as this fabric can stretch a bit. Which is great in some cases, but not when you need to fit a collar!
I LOVE this new coat! It is pretty and surprisingly warm for being so lightweight. The huge pockets are awesome (and warm)! Frustratingly, I lost the buttons I picked out after I made the buttonholes, but wore it to Thanksgiving anyway. My mom liked it so much that she wants one now!
I added buttons this week and have been wearing it everyday. I love how the collar easily stands up and block breezes on my neck, and I love that my phone and hands easily fit into the generous pockets. And, it goes with everything!
So, I am working my way towards a better winter wardrobe and this coat was just so great that I had to share it with you!
December 01, 2019 1 Comment on Folkwear Interior Patterns
Did You know that Folkwear has a home goods pattern line? Each of these patterns have multiple pieces and can be used to add to your current décor or be a complete design project. We love the gems that are in each of these patterns, and they have many practical and artistic possibilities.
This pattern presents a sampling of varied designs and techniques that can be used interchangeably to create a romantic and authentic Victorian bedroom. This pattern has 7 parts to choose from: quilt cover, pillow shams, cutwork doilies, dress scarves, throw pillows, sachets, nightcap, and dust ruffle. This pattern also teaches several handwork techniques and patterns for the techniques such as embroidery, cutwork, and handmade applique.
The poupourri sachet is a sweet and simple project. It would be a fun thing to make and have for quick gifts for friends and family - and you can use up your awesome fabric scraps. There is also a recipe for the potpourri blend or you can get creative with your own blend.
This pattern is made up of five projects to choose from: quilt, pillow and sham, a bed jacket and bonnet, and a teddy bear. The teddy bear would be so sweet with many fabric choices. The pillow sham has great potential for customization with fabric choice, added embroidery, or applique - and the pattern teaches the handwork techniques! Kids love gifts with their name or favorite things featured on them. And the quilt would make a nice throw for anywhere in the home (not limited to cribs)!
This popular pattern has 8 pieces to make, and includes instructions for handwork and dyeing techniques - floor cushions (zabuton), sleeping pillows (makura), futon, futon cover, top quilt (kakebuton), decorative curtains (noren), and tips for adapting any kimono pattern (such as Folkwear #113) for a quilted sleeping kimono (yogi). The decorative curtains (noren) would be a great way to show off some of your handwork skills! There are 3 different shapes of pillows(makura) to choose from as well. An adaptation for these could be to make them heat friendly (filling with buckwheat or rice and dried herbs), and use them to warm up on a chilly day! Or, do your own indigo dying and make the pillow covers or quilt.
November 15, 2019
It is always lovely to make handmade gifts for loved ones for the holidays, and we have several suggestions here, as well as free (and quick) ideas here, here, and here. But, sometimes, it is easier (and much faster) to just buy a gift to give. And, we have you covered!
First, for any of your crafty friends, family, or older children, these bag kits are great! They teach about a handwork technique from another place in the world, provide all the materials to make the bag with or without the handwork, as well as the instructions and pattern for making a practical and beautiful bag. The Japanese Carpenter's Bag is perfect for storing long rulers, rolls of tracing paper, or rolled up PDF patterns. The Thai Shoulder Sling is a great carry-all bag. The Turkish Drawstring Pouch and the French Reticule are wonderful, small bags and quick projects.
Japanese Carpenter's Bag
Turkish Drawstring Pouches
We also have some wonderful (and very popular) kits back in stock - the 271 Sunset Wrap Kits. This time our fabric for these kits is a lovely, soft, hand spun and handwoven cotton in two beautiful colors. The kits have fabric, pattern, and matching thread - a bundle for a GREAT deal! Theses kits usually go quickly, so get one soon!
Sunset Wrap
Folkwear Clothing (our clothing line based on a few of our patterns) has great options for giving! The Hapi jacket makes a lovely gift and the pouches are perfect for nearly everyone!
Hapi Jacket
Travel Pouches
Finally, our sewing notions and supplies make fabulous stocking stuffers. The transfer paper is so useful when sewing garments, and the bias tape makers are wonderful for creating beautiful bias binding. I also really love the organic silk embroidery thread - it is luxurious and gorgeous!
October 26, 2019 13 Comments on FREE Knitting Pattern - Fifties Fit and Flare Stole
If you have just started knitting, or want a super easy knitting project, this pattern is for you! We are giving away our very simple knitting pattern that comes from our out-of-print #241 Fifties' Fit and Flare pattern! This stole is long and cushy, made with just a Knit 1/Purl 1 rib pattern. It is perfect to add a layer of warmth to any outfit. It also makes a great gift! And, we have some yarn suggestions, listed after the pattern, to make a truly luxurious stole. Pattern is below, but you can download and print it from here.
SIZE: One size – 20”/51cm x 72”/183cm
YARN: Approximately 630 yds/576m
NEEDLES: One pair size 10 straight needles, or size to give correct gauge.
GAUGE: 4 sts = 1”/2.5 cm in K1, P1 rib st.
PATTERN USED: K1, P1 Ribbing
INSTRUCTIONS: Cast on 80 sts and work in rib for 72”/183cm. Bind off in rib st.
Abbreviations:
sts = stitches
st = stitch
K1 = Knit 1
P1 = Purl 1
YARN SUGGESTIONS
Echoview Mill (a local-to-us, and wonderful fiber mill) has a couple of yarns that would make beautiful stoles. Their Ranger Merino and their Haley Yarn. Both take 4 to 5 skeins to complete the stole.
Ranger Merino
Haley Yarn
The Manos de Uruguay Serpentina yarn would be gorgeous in this stole. There are lots of colorways to choose from at Purl Soho. You will need 4-5 skeins of this yarn to complete the stole.
Cascade Yarn Superwash 128 would also make a pretty, affordable, and easy-care stole. You can find many colors at Purl Soho, or your local yarn shop. It will take 5 skeins of this yarn to complete the stole.
The Big Good Wool from Purl Soho would also work well for this stole. Use their natural (and neutral) colors, or dye the lighter wool to make your own special yarn. You will need 2-3 skeins of this yarn to complete the stole.
October 18, 2019 10 Comments on Brief History of the Scottish Kilt
The Highlands of Scotland, where our kilt originated, include the northwestern mainland counties of Sutherland, Ross and Cromarty, Inverness, and Argyll. Originally of Gaelic descent, the early Highland clans were tribes who lived and farmed their own lands and occasionally fought and invaded one another.
Scottish Highlanders have been wearing garments of tartan-patterned fabric (commonly known as plaid) for over 400 years. In the soggy bogs of the Highlands, trousers were impractical - for health reasons as well as comfort. Wet clothing wouldn't have dried in the damp conditions of most homes. Even early shoes were designed with the perforations in the uppers to allow water to escape. Though tartans don't appear to have been used as clan identification prior the the early 19th century, the forerunner to the kilt is an ancient garment.
Nicknamed "redshanks" for their bare legs, Highlanders have worn "skirts" since pre-medieval times. The precursor to the kilt was called a breacon feile, or belted plaid. It consisted of a large rectangle of tartan wool that was worn pleated around the waist and held in place with a belt. The bottom half of the garment formed a skirt with overlapping, unpleated aprons in the front. The top half was either tucked into the belt, worn as a cape over the shoulders and fastened in front with a brooch, or draped over one shoulder and secured there with a brooch.
The plaid was especially handy clothing to wear for herding; not only was the close weave of early tartans somewhat waterproof, it also provided excellent shelter for outdoor sleeping.
Around 1730 the breacon feile evolved into the feileadh beah (philabeg) or "little Kilt". The draped top was separated from the skirt, and the modern kilt results when the pleats were permanently sewn in place.
Following the infamous Battle of Culloden in 1746, in which the beloved Bonnie Prince Charlie, challenger to the British throne (and for whom our eponymous jacket is named), was defeated, the wearing of tartan garments was outlawed. In an effort to deter further rebellion that might be fueled by Scottish national pride the Act for the Abolition and Proscription of Highland Dress was passed in 1747, banning the wearing of any form of tartan dress. Exempt from this rule were the Scots in Highland regiments of the British military, who were permitted to wear kilts, carry their traditional weapons, and play the bagpipes.
After some work to repeal the Act, it was finally done in 1782, but by then some of the ancient tartan patterns had been lost. New tartans were quickly designed and assigned, sometimes completely at random, to the ancient Highland clans.
In 1822, King George IV made the first official royal visit to Scotland in over 150 years. Advising him on the strip was noted Scottish historian, Sir Walter Scott, whose Waverly Novels greatly romanticized the Highlands and ignited much interest in the area. Scott commissioned the design of the Royal Steward tartan for the King, and also advised him on wearing of the traditional Highland dress.
Credit for the widespread popularity of all things Scottish, especially tartans, must go to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, who built Balmoral Castle near Aberdeen in the mid-1840s. Prince Albert designed Balmoral tartan for use in the castle, and it appeared in a variety of forms: from rugs to linoleum to upholstery and drapes - even the uniforms of the household staff.
Balmoral tartan
Kilts today are worn in hundreds of different tartans, by men, women, and children all over the world - often at celebrations or events. There are actually thousands of different tartans - for different clans and families, in "dress", in "hunting", etc. If you wish to search tartans based on clan or color, there is an official tartan registry in the UK. You can also create your own tartan at USA Kilts. The options are vast!
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Images are from the Victorian era book, romanticizing Scottish Highland wear, Clans of the Scottish Highlands (1845).
October 11, 2019
On old fashioned shirts (such as the 202 Victorian Shirt), as well as many well-made modern ones, the tops of the side openings are often reinforced with small tabs to prevent the shirt-tails from ripping. As in so many of our patterns, Folkwear teaches a technique used in the era and that is still relevant and interesting today in the 202 Victorian Shirt pattern. There are three versions shown and taught for making these tabs in the pattern. Each version is one that we found on antique shirts in the Folkwear collection. Here is one on a sheer blouse.
These tabs are great for reinforcing shirt-tails or side slits on shirts or dresses. I will show you how to make one of the versions below.
This simplest reinforcement consists of a triangle stitched on the inside of the shirt. Cut a rectangle 1" (2.5cm) by 1 1/2" (4cm), tuck the edges under, and topstitch the folded edges to the top of the side slit.
First, cut the rectangle from the fabric you want to use - 1" (2.5cm) by 1 1/2" (4cm). I am using the main fabric for the tab, but you could use something bold to add fun detail. Most of these tabs are on the inside of the garment, so they generally won't be seen.
Then, using an iron, press the first fold:
Press the second fold, folding over the top point of the first fold:
Press third fold, folding the corner of the second fold into it:
Press the forth fold, folding the corner of the first fold into it:
Press the fifth fold, enclosing the lower edges of the first and second fold:
The tab is now finished. Press it well and make sure all raw edges are neatly tucked to the wrong side. I made this sample a little asymmetrical, but symmetry for the tab is probably better!
Place this tab, with the pointed side toward the top of the garment, and with the long flat side at the top of the slit - inside the shirt with wrong sides facing. Then topstitch around the folded edges of the tab. I used a contrasting thread here so you could see it better, but, if you want it to blend in and not be noticeable, use a matching thread.
October 08, 2019 2 Comments on Fabric Suggestions for 152 Scottish Kilts
The romance of the Scottish Highlands is alive and well in this authentic kilt, kilt skirt, and Prince Charlie jacket and vest. To complete the ensemble, knit the lacy vest for women and the argyle socks for men. Our pattern includes complete instructions for measuring, pleating, and constructing the Kilt and Kilt Skirt; pattern pieces for cutting out and instructions for sewing the Jacket and Vest; knitting instructions for the vest and socks; and historic and cultural information about the kilt.
Suggested fabrics: For the Kilt, choose medium-weight worsted twill tartan wool. For the Jacket and Vest, choose suit-quality medium-weight wool or blend. Jacket lapels should be heavyweight silk (peau de soie or similar quality).
PLEASE NOTE: These suggested fabrics are based on fabrics that are in stock at the time the blog post is written, and may go out of stock from store at some point. If link is invalid for specific product, look for a similar fabric you can substitute.
Tartans
Much research goes into finding the correct clan or distinct tartan. Some of the large clan tartans like Stewart have well over a dozen variations, and many tartans have "hunting" and "dress" versions. Some tartans are described as ancient. This refers to the shades of the colors, not to the sett or design itself.
Traditionally, one may wear a clan tartan if one has the family or clan name to which it belongs. Those who have the name of a sept, or branch, associated with a particular clan may also wear that clan's tartan. There are cases in which a sept name is associated with more than one clan, so that an examination of family history is necessary to determine which tartan is to be worn.
The original concept of the distinct tartan, which may be worn by anyone with the appropriate residential or birth qualification, is older than the clan tartan.
It can be difficult to find authentic tartan fabric in the US, but several shops can source good tartan fabrics in 100% wool, or polyester, or a blend. A full kilt takes 8 yards or single width tartan (30"-32" wide), or 4 yards of double width (54"-60" wide). All of the shops below can source tartan fabric for your kilt.
USA Kilts offers a variety of tartans in various weights. Here is a variation of MacFarlane red modern. There are many variations within each Clan's tartans and coloring.
The Kilt Shop has a great selection of accessories,clan badges, and custom made kilts. This is a multi generational kilt making family. Much of the research that Folkwear includes in the Scottish Kilt Pattern was contributed by world renown kilt maker Ann Stewart, mother of the current owner and kilt maker Hazel Stewart. She also collaborated on the pattern. The Kilt Shop can help you source great tartan fabric, too.
The Scottish Weaver has a large selection of tartan fabrics by the yard. Pictured below is the ancient Hamilton tartan.
In addition to the traditional kilt, there is a trend that has been growing for sometime for the utility kilt. Utility kilts are a modern adaptation which are controversial among traditionalist and embraced by others. This article from BBC Scotland gives some insight into the trend. We personally know a farmer who lives near us who swears by his kilt for daily use! These are often made with canvas, but can be made in various other fabrics as well such as corduroy or denim. Our pattern would have to be adapted a bit to create this look, but it could be an interesting starting point with the traditional design as a foundation. Any thoughts on this?
Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics carries a variety of colors of Big Sur Canvas. This is a classic tightly woven duck canvas cotton and is a practical color.
Often, the Prince Charlie jacket is traditionally a neutral dark color such as dark blue, green, black or grey. We found this wool/rayon suiting at Vogue Fabrics and think it would be a nice solid to pair with various tartans.
October 05, 2019
This week my youngest son announced that, "there are only twelve more Wednesdays until Christmas!" I was a little shocked but, of course, remembered that Christmas does come quickly and "twelve Wednesdays" is about 3 months. So, while there is time, I realized I need to get on the ball with some planing both personally and for Folkwear. While many ideas from last year's gift guide are great gifts, and we'd love to inspire you with some updates and expand on this list!
As mentioned previously, the 269 Metropolitan Hat is a great gift and relatively quick sew. We recently added the option for a PDF version of this pattern as well as our paper pattern. So, If you are in a pinch you can print it at home the same day you purchase, and it only takes 7 sheets of paper to print at home! With minimal pages this is a great PDF option and we have a tutorial for "how to" use a PDF pattern if this is new to you. To select the paper or PDF version just use the drop down menu on the product page when ordering.
The 271 Sunset Wrap is another great pattern that is one-size-fits-all and a quick sew! This beautiful wrap can be sewn in a wide variety of fabrics. So, depending on location and climate of your gift recipient (or yourself) you can choose a good weight for the season. This pattern is also available in paper or as a PDF. To make your project even easier and more fun, we have a "sew along" blog post for reference!
Recently, I saw this wrap made with a border print and self-fabric fringe on the long bottom edge - so great!! Lots of Nani Iro fabric has a subtle border print and would drape nicely! Stonemountain and Daughter currently has it in stock.
Folkwear also has a collection of amazing bag patterns available for a quick gift to sew. The #146 Bags From Around the World PDF includes 6 different bag patterns! Or, you can choose to get just one bag pattern: French Reticule, Japanese Carpenter's Bag, Native American Bandolier Bag, Thai Shoulder Sling, Turkish Drawstring Bag, and Uzbek Coin Pouch.
The Japanese Carpenter's Bag is a great one for storing rolled up PDF patterns or those long rulers and tools in shops and studios. The Thai Sling is a great carry-all bag, and the smaller bags make wonderful re-usable "wrapping" for lots of gifts.
(Pictured left to right in the order of the list above)
AND we have a very limited number of Japanese Carpenter's Bag Kits and Turkish Drawstring Bag Kits which include fabric and supplies to go with the printed pattern. These kits can be a great gift for a sewing friend!
Additionally, check out our FREE carry all bag pattern that we have available as a PDF! This could be a great low stakes first attempt with a PDF pattern if you haven't used one before.
For the knitters and crocheters, we have a variety of knitting and crocheting patterns available. You may chose individual patterns and purchase them as PDFs or we offer 2 different knitting bundles that are paper copies and sent via mail: Women's Sweaters and Women's Warm Weather Tops.
For a couple of quick(er) projects, the Blonde Bombshell Bolero Sweater, or the free PDF pattern for the 1950's Stole that is a one size and simple project!
We hope you are ready to tackle the fun (though sometimes time consuming) gift making and giving coming this holiday season. I've got plenty of ideas now and will be starting a few projects this coming week.