October 02, 2020
Pant Assembly and Leg Godet
I hope you have enjoyed learning how to make the 229 Sailor Pants so far. The only construction we have left is sewing up the back crotch and adding the inner leg godets!
See Day One, Day Two, Day Three, Day Four, Day Five, Day Six, Day Seven, and Day Eight to see the progress of the 229 Sailor Pants sew along!
Sew Up the Back Crotch Seam
Lets sew up the back crotch. With right sides together, and matching the notches, pin the back crotch seam from the center back gusset to the leg seam.
Stitch from just below the dot at the bottom Center Back Gusset assembly to the end of the back crotch. Stitch the seam again to reinforce. Press the seam open.
The back crotch seam sewn and pressed open.
Add the Godets to the Inner Leg Seams
The inner leg godets are optional, but this is one of the pants best iconic features. Like so many of the features we have learned to make... a godet design can easily translate to other projects with pants legs, as well - if you ever want to transform a pair of pants into bell-bottoms (or even boot-cut).
The Inner Leg Godet pieces ready to be assembled to the pant legs.
Pin and sew the Inner Leg Godet (D) to the inner leg of one leg with right sides together, matching the notches.
The Inner Leg Godet pined to one leg.
A godet sewn to the inner leg.
With the right sides together, match the other side of the same pant leg to the other side of the Inner Leg Godet and pin in place. Match and pin the rest of the inner leg of the pants together, matching the notches and the center crotch seam. Stitch from the bottom edge, up through the top of the godet, and up to the crotch, creating the inner leg seam. Backstitch at the crotch. Press the godet seam toward the leg and press the leg seams open above the godet. Finish these seams as you like.
Use a pin to align the crotch center seam.
A view of the godets sewn in place as seen on the wrong side of the pants.
The godets installed in the leg of the pants.
Repeat for the opposite leg.
We did it! The 229 Sailor Pants construction is done. On Day Ten of the Sew Along we will add the Topstitching Details.