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Introducing our newest pattern: 229 Sailor Pants

September 01, 2020 10 Comments on Introducing our newest pattern: 229 Sailor Pants

Woman standing in front of a white back ground in navy sailor pants and white shirt.

Our 2 29 Sailor Pants originate from those worn by WWII Navy seamen. The back-story behind this pattern is that a veteran of WWII came to Isabelle Lott (long-time pattern grader for Folkwear) because he wanted to wear his Sailor Pants to his squadron reunion. However, he no longer fit in the pants. Isabelle drafted a pattern from his original pants and graded them to fit. Then, Folkwear was able to use her pattern to make these 229 Sailor Pants!

cover of pattern - black and white illustration of a woman and man meeting in front of a ship construction site wearing sailor pants
Cover illustration by Candii Kismet

This style and design have been worn as part of the Navy uniform, or "Crackerjack" uniform, for many decades; and the nautical style influenced fashion for more than half a century. These iconic high-waisted, bell bottom pants are loaded with all the elements and details of the original, such as the distinctive buttoned front flap closure, lace-up back eyelet gusset, back welt pocket, and inner leg godet. A small hidden coin pocket is tucked neatly in the front waistband seam. All the details of this pants design reflect the practical sensibilities of a uniform combined with a casual sophistication that remains timeless.

Our pattern is intended to be worn by men or women. Sizing is based on waist measurements, and we provide finished waist, hip, and upper thigh measurements. Don't forget that the back gusset provides an extra couple of inches at the waist if needed. And, the pattern can be graded between sizes. For example, if you are a size 34 at the waist, but 38 at the hip, you can pencil a line from the waist to smoothly go to 38 at the hip. You can keep the waistband pieces the same as for the waist size. See the sizing and yardage chart here.

Some of the distinct features:

Classic front buttoned flap closure. This is where you can really give these pants your personal touch. Use 12 to 16 buttons of whatever fun types you want!

Lace-up back eyelet gusset. The main idea behind this feature, originally, was that men could just untie the back and slip the pants down as needed. However, depending on how the pants fit and your body shape, you just loosen your ties and open one side - so that you don't have to unbutton all the buttons to get in and out. And, you can make your own eyelets!

Back welt pocket. We use a different (and simpler) welt pocket technique for these pants - and you can see how to do it in our blog post about welt pockets. (This pocket is also optional)

close up of back welt pocket on navy sailor pants

Inner leg godet. To get the full bell-bottom look, the inner leg godet adds a bit more flare to the leg. You can also leave this off for a smaller flare and a more typical leg shape.

close up of inner leg godet on navy sailor pants

Hidden front coin pocket. There is a small pocket hidden below the waistband in the front, behind the button flap - perfect for stashing a key or some coins. This is also optional, but a fun detail.

close up of front with hand in coin pocket on navy sailor pants

Topstitching. There is extensive topstitching that you can do around the front flap, back gusset, and waistband. We have it marked on the pattern and have a whole section in the instructions to help you with this.

If any of this sounds intimidating, don’t worry. We have clear and concise instructions included in the pattern, and we’re going to be offering a sew along in a few weeks so we can help you navigate the process.

We will also have blog posts coming soon with history, fabric suggestions, notion and tool suggestions/suppliers, as well as some ways to make these pants truly yours with fun details. For some inspiration, check out our Pinterest board!

10 Responses

Abbie

September 15, 2020

I have an authentic pair of regulation issue US Navy uniform pants. There is NO godet in the legs of the pants. They are straight down from the hips, with NO outside seam

mlaiuppa

September 15, 2020

When doing costumes for a production of HMS Pinafore I also came across some trivia regarding the middy blouse. The long collar in the back or that patch on the middy are because of the tar. Also why sailors were called Tars. They had long hair and used to use the ship’s tar to keep their “pony tails” from blowing in their faces. The collar or patch was to protect their blouse from the tar they smeared on their hair. I haven’t gotten my patterns yet so don’t know if this bit of trivia is included in the historical notes or not.

mlaiuppa

September 15, 2020

I have a pair of these navy woolen pants from the 60s. My Mom worked with a retired seaman and he gave me his old pants and middy top and white hat. The pants fit at the hip but not the waist so I painstakingly took them apart and reduced the waist in the front and back. They fit perfectly and were quite flattering. I got quite adept at unbuttoning them quickly. I think I cut the middy down too. I wore the entire outfit one Halloween but used to wear the pants quite often. Of course, they don’t fit any more but I still have the entire outfit. I’m ordering this pattern so I can make a pair my current size. Not sure I’ll go the 100% wool route, though. I doubt I could find wool of that quality anyway. Come to think of it. I had a pea coat too. But that may have been sold in a garage sale. I had always intended to cut that down to fit too. I seem to recall my pants are stovepipe, not bell bottom but that may be because they are two decades newer than the original WWII pattern used for these.

Sewred

September 02, 2020

Thank you!

Molly Hamilton

September 02, 2020

Yes, I think I can help you with making the pattern smaller. Will send you an email.

Sewred

September 01, 2020

Hi- My measurements are smaller than your smallest side. Without having seen the pattern pieces is there was a simple way to grade the pieces to be smaller? Or would it be too much. Trying to figure out if I should purchase the pattern. Thanks.