September 01, 2020 10 Comments on Introducing our newest pattern: 229 Sailor Pants
Our 229 Sailor Pants originate from those worn by WWII Navy seamen. The back-story behind this pattern is that a veteran of WWII came to Isabelle Lott (long-time pattern grader for Folkwear) because he wanted to wear his Sailor Pants to his squadron reunion. However, he no longer fit in the pants. Isabelle drafted a pattern from his original pants and graded them to fit. Then, Folkwear was able to use her pattern to make these 229 Sailor Pants!
Cover illustration by Candii Kismet
This style and design have been worn as part of the Navy uniform, or "Crackerjack" uniform, for many decades; and the nautical style influenced fashion for more than half a century. These iconic high-waisted, bell bottom pants are loaded with all the elements and details of the original, such as the distinctive buttoned front flap closure, lace-up back eyelet gusset, back welt pocket, and inner leg godet. A small hidden coin pocket is tucked neatly in the front waistband seam. All the details of this pants design reflect the practical sensibilities of a uniform combined with a casual sophistication that remains timeless.
Our pattern is intended to be worn by men or women. Sizing is based on waist measurements, and we provide finished waist, hip, and upper thigh measurements. Don't forget that the back gusset provides an extra couple of inches at the waist if needed. And, the pattern can be graded between sizes. For example, if you are a size 34 at the waist, but 38 at the hip, you can pencil a line from the waist to smoothly go to 38 at the hip. You can keep the waistband pieces the same as for the waist size. See the sizing and yardage chart here.
Some of the distinct features:
September 15, 2020
When doing costumes for a production of HMS Pinafore I also came across some trivia regarding the middy blouse. The long collar in the back or that patch on the middy are because of the tar. Also why sailors were called Tars. They had long hair and used to use the ship’s tar to keep their “pony tails” from blowing in their faces. The collar or patch was to protect their blouse from the tar they smeared on their hair. I haven’t gotten my patterns yet so don’t know if this bit of trivia is included in the historical notes or not.
September 15, 2020
I have a pair of these navy woolen pants from the 60s. My Mom worked with a retired seaman and he gave me his old pants and middy top and white hat. The pants fit at the hip but not the waist so I painstakingly took them apart and reduced the waist in the front and back. They fit perfectly and were quite flattering. I got quite adept at unbuttoning them quickly. I think I cut the middy down too. I wore the entire outfit one Halloween but used to wear the pants quite often. Of course, they don’t fit any more but I still have the entire outfit. I’m ordering this pattern so I can make a pair my current size. Not sure I’ll go the 100% wool route, though. I doubt I could find wool of that quality anyway. Come to think of it. I had a pea coat too. But that may have been sold in a garage sale. I had always intended to cut that down to fit too. I seem to recall my pants are stovepipe, not bell bottom but that may be because they are two decades newer than the original WWII pattern used for these.
September 02, 2020
Thank you!
September 02, 2020
Yes, I think I can help you with making the pattern smaller. Will send you an email.
September 01, 2020
Hi- My measurements are smaller than your smallest side. Without having seen the pattern pieces is there was a simple way to grade the pieces to be smaller? Or would it be too much. Trying to figure out if I should purchase the pattern. Thanks.
September 01, 2020
Where were these back in the Seventies??? They look great! I would’ve really liked them back in the day!
September 01, 2020
Where were these back in the Seventies??? They look great! I would’ve really liked them back in the day!
September 01, 2020
Yes. We will be doing a sew along in the next few weeks!
September 01, 2020
Hope you will be doing a sew along ?
Abbie
September 15, 2020
I have an authentic pair of regulation issue US Navy uniform pants. There is NO godet in the legs of the pants. They are straight down from the hips, with NO outside seam