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We have a guest post today from writer, Jackie Edwards, about traditional fashion in Africa.  She recently covered 10 of the most beautiful traditional garments from Africa and here introduces that article.  A link to the list is found at the bottom and is well worth the read - lots of fun and inspiration! Folkwear has a patterns from African traditional clothing here (Sarouelles)and here (Moroccan Burnoose) and a child's pattern in this one - and we will be adding a new one in the spring! 

Thanks, Jackie!

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Unravelling the Story Behind African Fashion

African fashion designer, Mahlet Afework, has said “there is beauty in everything and there is beauty in African fashion”. African fashion is extraordinarily beautiful because it all tells a story. By looking at the bright colors and intricate design, one can tell where the garment was made and what it is used for.

In Northeastern Africa, styles have been influenced by Middle Eastern culture, whereas the Northwestern fashions have remained more genuine and true to the African culture. In East Africa, Swahili speaking men wear the kanzu while women wear the kanga and gomesi, and in Sahelian Africa, the dashiki and grand boubou and more popular. Southern African fashion can be identified by shirts that are worn like long dresses, such as the Madiba shirt in South Africa and the safari shirt in Zimbabwe.

The styles and trends in Africa are a true representation of the fashion world. In fashion, you should dress in a way that most represents you and African fashion truly embraces this aspect.

To learn more about the fashion and how you can identify the story behind the clothing, check out these 10 traditional African fashion trends.  

I was inspired by Etro's 2017 fall ready-to-wear collection, especially this dress that looked so much like our Afghan Nomad Dress.  

So, I thought I would try to make my own!  When I was in NYC in August I found some beautiful Liberty fabric at a great price at Mood.  I also found a few yards of beautiful, wide embroidered silk trim at Virgin Fabrics in the Garment District.  Then, Rachel at Botanica Tinctoria sent me indigo-dyed organic cotton crocheted lace.  A vision was starting to come together.  

I use our 107 Afghan Nomad Dress pattern and made a few alterations.  First, I shortened the skirt to my knees and took out a lot of the skirt bulk.  I used maybe half to 2/3 the amount of a traditional Afghan nomad dress.  I just did not need or want that much bulk for a shorter skirt (also the fabric was expensive enough that I thought I could do with using less!).  And, I think I probably could have used even less width in the skirt, especially since it is a little bit of a heavier fabric than the lightweight, translucent lawn I used for sleeve and bodice, and doesn't drape as close to the body.  I also flipped the back to be the front (and front to be the back) because I like the neckline of the slit in the front.

I started by sewing the embroidered trim onto the bodice (by machine).  Then, I hand-stitched the crocheted lace between the trims and at the bottom.  The bodice already had the center slash cut into it, so I was just stitching on top as if it was not there.  

I then I cut the slash at the top of the bodice for the neckline through the trim, and tacked the back, or lining, of the bodice to the front bodice piece. From there, I just followed the pattern instructions. I did a blind hem stitch on the bottom edge.  

I love how it turned out - love the colors - and it is very comfortable.  

Anyone else inspired to make their own Afghan Nomad Dress?

I am so excited about a new product we are carrying in the Folkwear store: naturally dyed, organic Eri silk embroidery thread!  

This thread comes from Botanica Tinctoria, a company that sources sustainably made trims, voile, and threads.  Eri silk is durable and strong (and the worm is not killed in the processing).  The thread is GOTS-certified organic, and is dyed with natural materials and safe mordants in a closed loop process in India.  You can feel good about using this thread.

We carry Madder Red and Mid-Indigo Blue - two colors that are traditionally used in clothing embroidery in many cultures.  This 8-stranded thread will be perfect to use, separated (and often together), for any embroidery stitching on 107 Afghan Nomad Dress, any of the garments in 109 Little Folks, 142 Old Mexico Dress, 209 Walking Skirt, and many others.  There are so many uses for embroidery thread in our patterns when doing traditional handwork - from couching (Afghan Nomad Dress) to applique (Hungarian Szur, Big Sky Riding Skirt) to quilting (Turkish Coat, Quilted Prairie Skirt).

Environmentally and socially sustainable, and used to create hand-sewn, beautiful garments - this thread is the opposite of fast fashion.  We are proud to carry such a product and can't wait to see what you make with it!

Have you been watching the Outlander series on Starz?  I have read most of the books by Diana Gabaldon, and I have seen a few episodes of the show.  I enjoyed the books and the shows that I watched, but I know there are a lot of huge fans of Claire and Jamie out there.  Outlander is getting a lot of interest and press lately as a new season has just started.  What has struck me most, when watching the shows and reading about the shows, is the costumes.  They are well done and beautiful!  I found a few articles recently about the costumes from Outlander and how they were made.  You can read about them here (Outlander Costume Secrets at Buzzfeed)and here (Outlander Costumes and Starz).  And you can read more about the costumes and what goes into making them on the costume designer, Terry Dresbach's blog.  Very interesting!   

All of this also made me think of Folkwear patterns and creating some of the looks from the Outlander shows.  Of course, 152 Scottish Kilt would be perfect - kilt, Prince Charlie Jacket, vest - to get Scottish Jamie's look.  The 102 French Cheesemaker's Smock or the 116 Shirts of Russian and Ukraine are also a great shirt patterns for the time period. Also, 267 M'Lady's Corset and 207 Kinsale Cloak are iconic of the time and place, respectively. For the 1940's, tailored-Claire-look, our 133 Belgian Military Jacket, 250 Hollywood Pants, and 263 Countryside Frock Coat (for Frank too) would work well.  And, of course, for such a steamy show, 219 Intimacies is appropriate!

What do you think of the Outlander costumes?  Which patterns would you use to create an Outlander look?

Our guide to help you find the perfect costume to sew for yourself and everyone in your family. 

We have set out a few themes below, some with patterns for women, men, and children to fit those ideas.  So, if you like, your whole family (or friend group) can dress up together!

Ren Flair

123 Austrian Dirndl – a classic Renaissance outfit, or for an Oktoberfest beer maiden

108 Turkish Dancer – gorgeous flowing sleeves with a vest – perfect made from tissue silk

102 French Cheesemaker's Smock – classic men's shirt for any Renaissance theme

144 Tribal Belly Dancer – pieces from this pattern make fun Ren Fair wear

267 M'Lady's Corset – great and relatively simple corset – such a great costume piece

20's Classy Act Couple

Dress up like F. Scott and Zelda for a night on the town

264 Monte Carlo Dress

238 Le Smoking Jacket

Steampunk

So many of our patterns can be made into fabulous Steampunk costumes.  A great fabric choice, then add your own flair to finish the following, and you'll be set!

230 Model T Duster

133 Belgian Military Chef's Jacket

209 Walking Skirt

267 M'Lady's Corset

216 School Mistress' Outfit

American Western Family

This is an easy costume – a western shirt (212 or 218) with jeans and cowboy boots.  But, if you want it a little more involved, try the Big Sky Riding Skirt or add some fringe to the Rodeo Cowgirls Jacket and Skirt.  So fun!

212 Five Frontier Shirts

218 Child's Frontier Shirt

231 Big Sky Riding Skirt

242 Rodeo Cowgirl Jacket

243 Rodeo Cowgirl Skirt

Forest Friends

Harkening back to Celtic Britain, these patterns would be perfect in natural colors and fibers, or with nature themed fabric – eco-printed silk or wool, or naturally dyed muslin, or beautiful tweed.

207 Kinsale Cloak

208 Kinsale Cloak for Young Maidens

110 Little Kittel (for the young ones)

148 Black Forest Smock

Our #243 Rodeo Cowgirl Skirt is perfect for trimming out with studs, fringe, or other fun trims. 

Recommended fabrics for the skirt are denim, cotton (including quilting cotton, where you can get so many great and fun prints), linen, leather, lace (applique), and light to medium weight silk.  

Finding good sources of trim, such as studs or leather fringe, can be difficult.  I've tracked a few on-line places down and have listed them below.  We'd love to hear how you embellish your skirt (or other garments), so send us an email or tag us in a social media pic, or post to our Facebook group (Folkwear Patterns Sewing Group)!

• Vogue Fabrics has some great fringe (surry, rayon chainette, and beaded).  They also have some fabulous metal trims in many shapes, and rhinestones.

• Michael Levine has a selection of rhinestone appliques, star studs, and fringe trims.

• M&J Trimming (NYC) has a large selection of fringe trims (chainette, feather, beaded, and a few leather) as well as rhinestones.

• Walco Leather Co. Inc. is located in NYC, and is the only one listed here without an online store.  You must either go to their store in person, or get in touch with them to place an order.  Walco Leather has beautiful leather trim, and can also provide custom leather trim. Phone: 212-243-2244 or email: info@walcoleather.com

• And, VV Rouleaux (who I discovered in England the other week) has many gorgeous fringe, lace, and ribbon trims.  Probably worth the shipping cost to the US!

#240 Rosie the Riveter and #243 Rodeo Cowgirl Skirt are on sale this month.  Check out these photos from a recent shoot for a little inspiration. 

#240 Rosie the Riveter, overalls and pants

#243 Rodeo Cowgirl Skirt

Patterns of the Month (on sale for all of August):

#240 Rosie and Riveter:  Based on the clothing working women wore in the late 1930s and 1940s when they moved to factory jobs during WWII, these clothes were practical and became an iconic style.  Our #240 Rosie the Riveter pattern includes pattern and instructions to make pleated overalls and pants pants, a button up camp shirt, and a crocheted snood (to keep hair in place), and even a knitting pattern for a cardigan sweater. There is so much in this pattern, making it a great deal! 

#243 Rodeo Cowgirl Skirt - Another staple garment, or one to make into a great costume!  This skirt is simple, fun, and versatile. This A-line skirt can be made simply, or embellished profusely. Options for applique, bottom flounce, adding fringe, or embroidery make this pattern interesting and allow you to create your own unique garment.  Great for a dance hall or just a fun everyday skirt!

Plus-sized patterns.  You've asked for them, and Folkwear has been working to provide them.  We now have a list of all our patterns that come in larger sizes on the blog.  I will create a permanent link to this list (and add to it as we grade up patterns) and have it to share whenever needed.  While some of our patterns only go up to size large, I think you will be impressed by how many go up into plus sizes, so I hope this will be helpful!

Visiting England.  I have been in England this past week, visiting family, but also making a point to get to see some great textile, sewing, and fashion locations.  We went to the Fashion Museum in Bath (blog post to come soon), and it was impressive and beautiful.  A definite must-see in the area.  We spent most of our time in Bristol, but also a few days near London, and made it to the Victoria and Albert Museum and Liberty.

More travel this month for Folkwear!!  I am heading to New York City later this month to catch the last days of the Counter-Couture exhibit at the NY Museum of Art and Design.  The exhibit contains a few Folkwear garments, made in the 1970s by fashion artists (and one by co-founder of Folkwear, Alexandra Hart Jacopetti).  I am excited to see them in person, and I am planning to catch a few other fashion museums in the city, as well as take a quick trip to the garment district.

On our second day in England, we took a train to Bath to see some sites and visit the Fashion Museum there.  The Romans built the first "baths" here in 74 AD, and the town of Bath grew up around them.  Eventually, by the late 1700s, Bath became a fashionable place to come for the healing waters and to be "seen".   It is still a quaint and beautiful town with great shops and cultural sites.

We headed first to the Fashion Museum. I've heard about this museum for a while - always touted as a "must-see".  And, it really was a gem!  Located in the Assembly Rooms (the place to be in 19th century England), the museum is well set up, small, and beautiful.

Two exhibitions were on display at the museum when we were there: A History of Fashion in 100 Objects and Lace in Fashion.  They were well curated and simply impressive.  The 3 children we had with us enjoyed the museum as well.  The exhibitions kept them interested and there were some fun activities (great dress up and some fashion plates to color). 

I found a few garments of interest to Folkwear in the 100 Objects exhibit - either because they were garments that Folkwear has patterns for or because some the details of the garments relate to a Folkwear pattern.  There were also a few garments that I was inspired to learn more about, as possible future Folkwear patterns.

A quilted skirt from the mid-1700s.  Skirt were quilted, just like our 206 Quilted Prairie Skirt, to provide more warmth for the garment.  Quilting provides interest and beauty to the garment while being practical.  I had not realized that quilted skirts had been around for a while!

A frock coat from the 1790s.  This fine English wool coat is well-cut and handsome.  These coats became popular about this time because of its simplicity, which mirrored the popular "back to nature" philosophy of the time.  Some critics derided this fashion because originally a "frock" was a working man's dress, but these had become popular in the upper classes.  Folkwear has a pattern for a frock coat (263 Countryside Frock Coat) but is cut differently than this one.

Traveling suit from the 1910s, specifically, right around the time of WWI.  This would not have been called a suit at the time, since men wore suits and this was obviously for women.  Also, remarkable is the fact that this was the first dress/skirt that was shortened to above the ankle - so became an important (and slightly shocking) garment.  Folkwear's 508 Traveling Suit is very similar to this one.

A Chinese influenced Beach Pyjamas.  These beach pyjamas are made of silk and include Chinese embroidery.  Beach Pyjamas were some of the first pants that women wore, and helped usher in their popularity.  You could make a set like these with our 252 Beach Pyjamas.

 I also loved the Lace in Fashion exhibit, as I admire lace, the history of it, how it is made, its beauty, and how it can be used.  I usually don't have the confidence to use lace in most of my sewing, but I am now inspired to try more. 

This is one garment in the Lace exhibit that related to Folkwear patterns - this cocoon coat had lace overlaid on the upper/collar part of the coat and at the lower sleeves.  It was a beautiful coat and a unique way to use lace in this garment.  Our 503 Poiret Cocoon Coat is very similar.

I am only posting this gown above because I literally fell in love with it. The lace overlay, the colors, the cut, the metallic gems on the sides, the design - I loved it all.  This was my personal favorite, and my heart aches a little when I think of it (see, I really did fall in love with it).

After visiting this wonderful little museum, we headed toward the Roman Bath, but we stopped by a trim store that caught our eye with its colorful window display.  VV Rouleaux was the most interesting and prettiest trim shop I've ever seen.  I bought some braided buttons and some leather fringe trim, but I could have spent lots more time (and money) there!  They have a shop online as well, which I will definitely be returning to. 

Finally, on our way back to the train station, we stopped at a tiny little quilt and sewing store where I found a beautiful striped cotton fabric, so bought a few meters (for what project, I don't know yet). 

So, all in all, our fashionable trip to Bath was quite a success.  I hope to get back again!

We have two featured patterns on sale for the whole month of July:  #225 Childhood Dreams and #252 Beach Pyjamas.

#225 Childhood Dreams is a pattern based on the popular gowns ordered by rural women through the Sears-Robuck catalog in the early 1900s.  This garment is perfect as a nightgown or as a day dress.  Two versions can be made for children 2 to 12.  It is an easy garment to make and is really a beautiful gown.  Your girl will love it!

#252 Beach Pyjamas are inspired by the beach pyjamas made popular by the socialites vacationing on the Riviera in the 1920s.  By the 1930s, the fashion had spread worldwide, and was the preferred day "dress" on beaches (when not in a bathing suit).  It can take you right into evening wear, too.  This garment is fun, beautiful, and a perfect garment for parties, weddings and any beach day!