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    News

    Guest Post: Personalizing My Folkwear Patterns

    June 11, 2021 12 Comments

    by Whitney Remington

    As a beginner sewist, I used to think of sewing patterns as a strict set of shapes and instructions to be followed to the letter, and that changing anything within would "ruin" it-- much as substituting the ingredients in a treasured family recipe might result in a very unfavorable reaction at the dinner table from guests who expect the original dish.

    Following patterns right from the packet (other than the usual fit adjustments) certainly produces functional and beautiful garments to be sure!  But with passing time and growing skill, I realized that patterns are merely guidelines to make garments that you can customize to your own shape, needs, and tastes.  Don't like a design feature?  Omit it.  Too long?  Cut it short.  Too simple?  Fancy it up!  Body changes over time?  Alter your clothes to fit your body!  Not only is it totally ok to think outside the pattern envelope, whether in subtle or more extreme ways.  It can be fun and produce awesome clothes that suit your individuality, and your own creativity is the limit.  Here are a few examples of my own modified makes.

    ----

    While my #128 Russian Settlers Dress is loose and billowy in the main body, the top band-- which is one solid piece-- started to feel uncomfortably tight, likely due to quarantine weight gain.  I wasn't content to let this dress languish unworn in the closet, but I didn't want to part with it either!  So I cut open the top band at center front, neatly finished the edges, then hand-sewed eyelets at either end to insert a ribbon.  As I had already included the nursing slit when I first made this dress, it was incredibly quick to make this adjustment.  The nursing slit now serves as an adorable keyhole opening (with the excess length safety-pinned shut for modesty), and the top band can easily be adjusted to fit with the ribbon tie.

    Before and after photos of front of dress adjusted for sizing with a slit and ribbon.

    Woman standing outside by a river with a colorful bird print dress and a rainbow umbrella.

    ----

    The #261 Paris Promenade Dress is the first Folkwear Pattern that I've ever sewn, and I adore it for its effortless grace and comfort.  When I first sewed it up, the only "change" I made was to go 2 sizes smaller than recommended for my measurements.  This dress is still a favorite, three years later!  But I decided it needed a bit of a refresh.  So I lowered the top of the front apron piece by a few inches and shortened the sleeves a bit-- standing in front of a mirror, folding and pinning things into place to determine exactly how much I needed to adjust until it looked right.  It's a subtle change, but doing so vastly improved the style lines for me!

    Adjusting the 261 Paris Promenade Dress of pink fabric with blue overlay with a seam ripper and tape.

    Woman standing outside wearing 261 Paris Promenade Dress - before and after photos of the pink dress with blue overlay.

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    I put so, so much effort into making muslins and fine-tuning the fit of these #240 Rosie The Riveter Overalls!  When the sewing was done, the fit was absolutely *chef's kiss* perfect!  Then just a few months later, my body changed... and the overalls became uncomfortably tight at the waist.  (I'm blaming quarantine yet again for this one.)  But I wasn't about let that throw Rosie's wrench into my awesome 1940's overalls-wearing plans!  So I opened up the side seams and inserted diamond-shaped patches to expand the fit at the waist.  To determine how much I needed to adjust, I took a new measurement of my waist (adding in a couple more inches, just in case), subtracted the waist measurement of the original overalls, and made the total width of both diamond patches reflect the difference, plus seam allowance.  Now my overalls are comfortable to wear again!

    Woman standing with hands in pockets wearing pink overalls with a white mesh shirt

    close up of adjustment to overalls of adding a diamond shaped expansion to the waist

    Photos of woman outside cutting a branch wearing pink overalls

    ----

    The last few examples were of subtle changes... well now here's an example of deviously dramatic deviations from the pattern!  I definitely used the #503 Poiret Cocoon Coat shape more as a base guideline, and proceeded to just toss fabric recommendations and instructions out the window!  For both of my versions, I experimented by using poly chiffon and African wax print cotton, rather than the heavier fabrics suggested on the pattern envelope.  I also omitted linings and collars, and shortened the sleeves by simply cutting them from the ends, resulting in wider, airier sleeve openings.  To achieve a drapier look and tone down the floatiness of the lightweight fabrics, I used tassel trim to weigh down the hems of both, which also has the bonus of adding fun movement with the wiggling tassels!  For the African wax print version, the characteristic stiffness of the fabric posed an interesting challenge, as it really wanted to puff outwards rather than slink down as would befit this garment.  While the tassel trim alleviated some of that, adding tucks at the waist helped to tame the voluminosity even further, while also defining the waist in a way that I find very flattering.

    Woman wearing the Poirot Cocoon Coat made of a dark chiffon.
    Woman wearing Poirot Cocoon Coat made of a bright yellow and pink African Wax Print.
    Details of waist tucks on the 503 Poirot Cocoon Coat made of bright yellow and pink African Wax Print.

     

    Thanks so much for reading, and I hope learning about my creations will inspire you to try out some modifications of your own, whether they be tiny tweaks to full-blown pattern-hacks!

     

    You can find Whitney, and see lots more of her Folkwear (and more) sewing makes as well as her adventures as a truck driver, on Instagram at @whitneygoose

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    At the Hop Blouse

    June 08, 2021 2 Comments

    I have been thinking of my summer wardrobe lately - thinking about what I want to add to my summer staples.  And I knew I wanted a new button down short-sleeved shirt for everyday wear.  One I could wear with jeans, shorts, and simple skirts.  When we decided to feature 256 At the Hop, I remembered that I have admired the shirt in this pattern, and I saw a customer make one several years ago and rave about how great it was.  While the skirt can be a canvas for lots of fun art and statement, the shirt can be a workhorse of daily fashion.  I found 1.5 yards of a beautiful hand block printed cotton from Ghana in my stash.  And decided to make it.

    Woman standing by a river wearing a teal block printed button down shirt.

    This is probably the simplest button down shirt I've ever made - or maybe the quickest one I've made.  There is a fold-over front placket, rounded collar, bust darts, and front and back tucks.  It came together very simply and easily.  I loved the little darts and tucks that give it a bit of shape.  You could add a front side pocket to it if you want to, but you'll need to draft it because there is not one is the pattern (probably also contributing to how quick this was to make).

    I did make a few adjustments to the pattern I want to share.  First, I added a little over an inch to the front and back.  My torso is a bit longer than our typical Folkwear block.  This was perfect for me.  I also added interfacing to the front button plackets - just about an inch wide - to provide some stability to the buttonholes and button area.  You could also add interfacing to the collar/facing if you feel your fabric warrants it.  The pattern is not very clear in one step, but I folded the front button plackets to the inside by about 1/2" (13mm) to enclose the raw edge of fabric then I top stitched close to the edge - topstitching both at the edge of the shirt and at the edge of the turned-under edge - creating parallel lines one inch (2.5cm) apart on the placket.  If you actually cut the front pieces on the selvage, you don't need to fold under that edge.

    Woman standing by a river wearing a teal block printed button down shirt.
    .
    Woman standing by a river wearing a teal block printed button down shirt.

    The one drawback of this pattern is that it is graded in a fairly small size range.  When Taunton Press owned Folkwear (in the 1980s), they put out several patterns all in a narrow, and small, size range.  Over the years since, Folkwear has adopted a slightly different grade rule, but we still have a patterns in the old Taunton grade rule.  When we have the chance (i.e. a pattern is coming up for print) and the ability (i.e. pattern pieces are small enough, not super expensive, etc.), we try to grade it up.   But, we have a LOT of this pattern in stock.  While the pattern is on the smaller side of sizing, it makes a great shirt, cute skirt, and lovely sweater.  And, we should have a tutorial on sizing the skirt up soon too. But, I would definitely encourage you to make this shirt if you can!  It's a great one to add to your summer wardrobe!

    Woman standing by a river wearing a teal block printed button down shirt.

     

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    256 At The Hop Skirt, A Canvas for Inspiration

    June 04, 2021 2 Comments

    by Cynthia Anderson

    While the roots of the our 256 At The Hop pattern belong in the 1950’s, time moves forward with each new generation having a voice in need of expression. This circle skirt, also known as the Poodle Skirt, originally evolved as a fun garment, that allowed women a bit of glamor and a way to express a playfulness that had been suppressed due to a world war (read more on the history of this skirt here). It was an innocent garment for an era trying to regain it's optimism. However, this iconic skirt would embody and bond a generation of women. The poodle or circle skirt was not just a fun skirt to make and wear, but it became the voice of hope for a generation of women.

    Photo of Folkwear 256 At The Hop RBG Skirt twirl
    Photo of Folkwear 256 At The Hop RBG Skirt back view

     

    There is always more to clothing than we realize. Clothing reveals and reflects the cultural and social mores of a society at any given time. Clothing has always been and always will be, so much more than a way to protect and adorn the human body. There are times when clothing says more than we can speak ourselves. Typically, we go about our daily lives in clothing that subtly reveals something about us. But, sometimes clothing can be a platform for a bolder statement or idea.

    In the desire to honor this iconic skirt's history and in the hope of keeping it's creative spirit alive, Folkwear hopes you will be inspired to treat this simple circle skirt as a canvas to express your own creativity and ideas. 

    In this blog, I will explain my thought process on how I decided to use the 256 At The Hop skirt pattern to commemorate one of the most iconic women in American History. My intent was to use this pattern as a wearable canvas to honor the courageous spirit and determined voice of Ruth Badder Ginsburg and celebrate her legacy.

    Being a former graphic designer, I knew I should to keep this project simple. Being a sewist, I envisioned a multilayered and detailed quilted master piece. However, due to a deadline and other Folkwear projects on my plate, I went for simple with the hope of still honoring my subject. I decided a big-bold, black-and-white design with a splash of significant color would suit my vision. I made a muslin of the skirt, which allowed me to experiment with my ideas without the risk of messing up my final fabric.

    Deciding how to execute any project is half the battle and what materials will most likely allow for "realistic" results was a good part of my planning process. Most importantly, I wanted to feature a portrait of Ruth that would actually look like her. Andy Warhol's silk-screen portraits came to mind. So did the campaign posters for former President Obama.

    My next consideration was how to work with the shape and drape of the 256 At The Hop skirt, using it as my canvas. Having a large area to work with can be as daunting as having too little space can be limiting.

    To procrastinate making an immediate decision on how to proceed and to allow myself to think through my project, I cut my canvas out first, according to the pattern instructions.

    I knew this skirt would be really easy to construct, but the construction would come last. Working flat makes creating the art part much easier. I cut the front and back of the skirt using the pattern. Instead of using the "Lengthen/Shorten Here" line to shorten the skirt, I measured and cut 4 1/2-inches off the bottom of the skirt, which I reserved for the hem to be added later.

    Due to the manipulations the fabric inevitably goes through, I stabilized the waist with a stay-stitch just inside the seam allowance, and finished the side edges and bottom edges with the serger, being careful not to move too much fabric, keeping the intended skirt length in mind.

    I found a graphic portrait and using the computer program Photoshop, (you can also use Illustrator), I enlarged the portrait and printed it off on my desktop printer. Because of the size of the image, I tiled and taped the pages in place like you would a pdf pattern. 

    Plan A was to cut the portrait out of black fabric and applique it to the skirt fabric. Even though I was pleased the cut fabric portrait still looked like Ruth, I decided hand applique would take too long and machine stitching the intricate edges would not work well for me. Plan "B"... paint.

    Photo of RBG portait painted on the Folkwear 256 At The Hop Skirt

    Because of the shape and drape of the circle skirt, positioning a vertically orientated image straight up and down needs be done with the skirt hanging as if on the body. This is where having a skirt muslin really came in handy. Notice the position of the portrait when hanging on the dress form compared to the position of the skirt laying out flat.

    Photo showing how portrait is positioned when hanging on the body
    Portrait positioned vertically straight.
    Photo of RBG skirt muslin laying flat, showing position of portrait.
    Portrait positioned at an angle to accommodate the actual drape.

     

    Once I was satisfied with the positioning, I consulted the Folkwear blog How to Transfer Embroidery Designs to Fabric. Even though I was not using embroidery, a simple tracing technique from the blog still applies. 

    After tracing the portrait, I placed a scrap piece of cardboard under my work and used black acrylic paint to paint the portrait. This was a slow process, being careful not to create a paint mishap. During the process of painting I avoided moving the fabric around on the cardboard. The paint seeps through the fabric to the cardboard and moving either would create an undesirable effect. When using acrylic paint on fabric, be careful to not use paint that is too thin. Strive for a paint consistency that will flow without bleeding. After the portrait was painted, I let it dry completely.

    The RBG initials were created using Photoshop and tile printed due to the large size. I taped the pages together and this time I cut the letters out with scissors to create a pattern to trace around. Because I was working with black fabric I used a white lead pencil to trace with. Once the letters were cut out of the fabric, I positioned the letters according to my planned idea. I used white sewing thread to baste the letters in place... with the idea that I would keep the basting stitches as part of the design. Once the basting was complete I machine zig-zagged around the edges of the letters with the same white sewing thread. To my surprise, I liked that the zig-zag stitching related well to the painted collar design in the portrait!

    Photo of RBG fabric intials and portrait on the Folkwear 256 At The Hop skirt
    Photo of fabric inital being hand basted to the Folkwear 256 At The Hop Skirt
    Photo of machine zig-zag stitch itial letter to the RBG skirt
    Close-up photo of stitching on the RBG skirt

    Next I turned to the back of the skirt. This blank canvas was so empty, but the perfect place for a famous RBG quote. The "Notorious" quote seemed to epitomize Ruth's spirit. Because of the wide sweep of the skirt, I opted to place the quote on the bottom curved edge. Using Photoshop I drew the bottom edge of the skirt curve using a scaled snapshot of the skirt pattern as a guide. I decided on a font and positioned it on the curve, playing around with the positioning until I liked it.

    Once again I printed out the type and tiled the pages together. Just like the portrait... I traced the quote using a pencil.

    Photo of RBG  "Notorious" quote printed and tiled.
    Photo of quote seen through the fabric to trace.
    Black acrylic paint was used to paint the letters. I took my time and was careful not to make a mess. Once the letters were all painted I let the back of the skirt dry completely.
    Photo of painting the quote in progress.
    Photo of cardboard under fabric while painting.

    Now the fun part . . . seeing it all come together! I constructed the skirt according to the pattern instructions: adding a side zipper with fusible interfacing for reinforcing the zip area, stitching-up the side seams and hemming the bottom edge. Because I wanted the hem to have a bit of weight I used the extra fabric  previously cut off the bottom of the skirt, sewing the hem on separately.

    The waistband was cut and made wider than the pattern required, in order to accommodate the ribbon used to cover the waistband.

    A rainbow ribbon to represent Ruth's support for Gay Rights (and a nod to Pride Month) was edge-stitched to the waistband and finished off with a couple of snaps to secure.

    There is so much wrapped up in being inspired to make something that did not exist before. The creative process is unique to everyone and during this project I could not help but wonder if Ruth ever wore a poodle skirt? I hope she would like this skirt.

    Photo of Folkwear 256 At The Hop RBG Skirt detail view
    Photo of Folkwear 256 At The Hop RBG Skirt back twirl

     

    I hope that you will look at this skirt pattern for new and unique possibilities. Use the 256 At the Hop skirt pattern as a canvas to express something that inspires you and celebrate your own voice! We can hardly wait to see what you have been inspired to make!

     

    Special Thanks to Folkwear's latest team member and model... VICTORIA!

    Photo of Folkwear 256 At The Hop RBG Skirt side view

     

     

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    How the Poodle Skirt came to be

    June 01, 2021 3 Comments

    There are few garments that conjure up American nostalgia quite like a poodle skirt. This skirt became synonymous with the 1950’s carefree lifestyle of the post war years and a dance floor icon that exemplified the energy of new cultural phenomenon called Rock n’ Roll.

    Our 256 At the Hop pattern is a time-capsule of 1950’s women’s fashion that embodied the spirit of a new generation. This nicely curated collection of classic garments comes with all the extra details needed to add as much 1950's nostalgia as you like. The pattern includes not only the iconic Poodle Skirt, but a classic short sleeve blouse pattern, and knitting instructions for a cropped cardigan. To complete the look, coordinating winter holiday and poodle dog appliquĆ©s and knitting designs are provided to embellish the skirt and sweater. The seasonal holiday and poodle motifs are in keeping with the original history of the first poodle skirts designs as you will learn.

    Black and white flat lays of poodle skirts, blouse, and sweaters from 256 At the Hop pattern.

     Women’s Fashion was put on the back burner due to the war years starting in 1939 and lasting thru 1945. Once the WWII was over and the country began to prosper, a new cultural energy and ethos began to stir. The whole country was ready for better times, as well as something exciting and new. In 1947 such an exciting change came to women's fashion. The New Look by Christian Dior was unveiled, introducing a skirt with a full and flowing shape and a nipped waist. This new look was in sharp contrast to the practical clothing of the war years and women embraced this new symbol of high-style with enthusiasm. The fact that it was easy to make only added to the craze among women across all spectrum of society.

    Photo of Christian Dior's incon New Look

    Christian Dior's iconic New Look.

    During the winter holiday season of the same year, a young budding actress named Julie Lynn Charlot had an invitation to a Christmas party and nothing to wear. Julie was newly married and broke, but her mother owned a factory that used felt. Needing a holiday outfit Julie decided to draft her own skirt pattern (like Mr. Dior’s) and used the easy-to-work-with felt she had on hand. Sewing was not a skill Julie was good at, so she cut a big circle with a hole in the middle for her waist, which eliminated the need for seams. On this first party skirt, Julie included seasonal holiday appliquĆ©s just for the fun of it. The new couple not only enjoyed the Christmas party on a budget that year, but Julie’s skirt drew quite a lot of attention.

    Photo of a Christmas Holiday Skirt sedigned by Julie Lynn Charlot

    A Christmas Holiday Skirt designed by Julie Lynn Charlot.

    Before long, Julie was selling her felt holiday skirts in Beverly Hills boutiques, where they flew off the racks. It did not take long before non-holiday themed embellishments were requested and the trend took off like skirts on fire! You never know when making something for yourself could turn you into a fashion designer?

    Photo of Julie Lynn Charlot clothing label.

     

    Julie also established the skirts iconic fabric of choice. Felt may have been what Julie had on hand, but it was a perfect choice, once again making the skirt easy for anyone to sew. To add to this charming story, Julie was not stingy with her designs and worked with a pattern company to make her designs accessible to women world wide. She helped to create a whole generation of women who delighted in creating skirts with fun scenes and stories using easy to apply appliquƩ techniques.

    As it so happened, the first Westminster Dog Show that year, had created a rage for all things dogs. As a result, Julie was commissioned to make a skirt depicting a story of three appliquƩd dachshunds.
    Photo of Julie in her own Dachshund Dog design skirt.

    Julie in her own Dachshund Dog design skirt.

    Due to the high profile dog show and their fancy haircuts, poodles became a symbol of refinement and high class. As fate would have it, the appliquƩing of poodles on skirts was beyond huge. Before long, just about anything became a possible embellishments for these wide circle skirts. Grown women adorned their skirts with the Eiffel Tower, Martini glasses, flower pots, and seasonal themes. Teenage girls embellished their skirts with trendy images like records, catchy phrases, hot rod cars and anything that inspired.

    Photo of 1950's Ladies modeling different themed circle skirts.

    Ladies of the 1950's modeling different themed circle skirts.

    Photo of a Julie Lynn Charlot Horse Race skirt design.

     Horse Race skirt design by Julie Lynn Charlot.

    Photo of a Dance Floor skirt design by Julie Lynn Charlot.

    Dance Floor skirt design by Julie Lynn Charlot.

     

    Designer Bettie Morrie even appliquĆ©d a backgammon board on her skirt, which she used for an impromptu game when it arose.

    Photo of Bettie Morrie backgammon board skirt
    Bettie Morrie playing Backgammon on her skirt.

     

    After the difficult years of the war, women were in need of not only glamour but the country was overdue for some much needed fun. Mr. Dior's flowing skirt design was not only fun to move and dance in, but it was the perfect canvas for displaying one's individual expression. It would be Julie's idea of adding appliquƩd embellishments that would transform the skirt into a popular conversation piece. Even walking down the street became more interesting and fun for everyone!

    Of course, each garment in the pattern in the Folkwear's 256 At The Hop pattern is a classic, easily made for everyday wearing no matter the season. Use this pattern to make a costume, historical reenactment, a theater production, a sports or hobby themed skirt, or as a canvas when inspiration strikes. 

    Photo of woman wearing a halloween embellished skirt!

     Halloween made more fun!

    This is truly an American story of how a fashion icon was created out of one mans awareness of how to fulfill a desire for glamour and the necessity of one young woman to dress herself for a party. So, it just goes to show how once a momentum gets started, anything can happen! It is  amazing how a simple skirt bound a generation of women and created wonderful memories in the process.

    Find your own inspiration using the this pattern and please share what you make, whether a masterpiece or a lovely everyday look.

    Be sure to stay tuned to what we were inspired to make using the 256 At the Hop skirt pattern in the next blog (coming this week!).

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    Turning the 267 M'Lady's Corset into a Jacket

    May 20, 2021 2 Comments

    Well hey there, howdy, hi. I’m Sarahbeth. A (mostly) retired, previously-award-winning indie apparel designer coming to you from Mars Hill, NC with a hopefully inspired, and also tragically comedic, adaptation of the 267 M’Lady’s Corset.

    A bit about my history in apparel design: Many many moons ago I had an indie apparel line called Unabashed Apparel. I did it all: designed, drafted, sewed, produced product line, photo shoots, etc. Now I create for myself and my loved ones and take a few commissions when the mood strikes me. I’m most interested in how we inspire and encourage one another as creatives. I drafted patterns for every piece I made for my apparel line. I drafted a prototype, then several sizes for each piece in a collection. I personally handmade each piece. In custom bridal, I created a custom body block for each client and then a pattern for the gown from there. I sewed muslins before cutting into silk, but my original patterns were spot on and so after a few years I scratched the muslin part of the process. It was nerve wracking at first. For the last decade I’ve mostly draped any piece that I want to create. There have been times I’ve been frustrated that I didn’t create a pattern to return to, but it’s rare. For personal use, Folkwear has been the only pattern company whose patterns (other than my own) I have reused time and again. I’m a big fan not just of the quality but of the fantastic women who have been stewards of this pattern company.

    The tale of this jacket is one of beautiful woe.

    Mostly it goes like this: pride cometh before the 2 dozen things you have to do to make a grand idea live-able. You know the old phrase, when someone tells you they like something you made, say thank you and then clamp your mouth shut? This is not that. I want you to be inspired, I want you to grab the bull by the horns, (I want you to use a different lining for your project…)

    In short: A while back I designed a jacket for a particularly beautiful Merchant & Mills wool. Then inspiration struck! It was similar enough to the 267 M’Lady’s Corset my buddy Cynthia asked me to model for her recent Folkwear blog post. Why reinvent the wheel? I fetched the pattern and planned to adapt it to my design.

    Now, I feel I should tell you I’m more a Jack Pollock than a Jo Vermeer type. Of course, I wish I was refined and dedicated to the exact right brush stroke, but in truth, I really don’t have patience and just throw spaghetti on the wall. I’d rather yelp and fix than wait and plan it perfectly. It’s good to know thyself, because it turns out I was a bit rusty and a bit over-confident with my adaptation and ideas. I had a lot I had to fix with this project. I learned/remembered a lot too and that’s always a great boon to an old grizzled pro.

    The idea: Seamed peplum wool jacket, lined with soft jersey for comfort and a casual effect.

    Add to the pattern: Sleeves, High neck, Pockets, an Elizabethan flare, be comfy & warm.

    Reality: Lined with soft, lightweight jersey? Please. Send help.

    1.  Prewash. I pre-wash almost everything, including wool. I hand wash my woolens, and to be able to do this, I throw my fabric in the washing machine before I cut out a pattern. It might change the look (and it did change this wool) but I find I want to be able to personally wash things 99% of the time. I buy 1/3 more of my wool than a pattern calls for for this fact. You can see here that the fabric was looser before washing. I prefer the tighter and fluffier outcome post washing and drying. I can’t tell you the number of times a bride I’ve designed for will call me about stains/dirt, and when I say, throw your gown in the bathtub, wash it with some gentle soap – wring it out, hang it to dry – they cry. I prewash errythang.

    brown wool scrap held up 

    2.  Lay it out, think it through. Add about an inch to the pattern body to turn a fitting corset into a jacket. Cut.

    Consider the neck. Of course the original pattern had a scoop neck, and I wanted a warm jacket. I like things to cover the base of my neck and ride a bit high in the back. I used my French curve ruler to sort it out. Always allow for more fabric (shallower curve), you can trim away for the correct shape.

     brown wool with pattern and french curve laying on it

     

    3.  I love a selvedge. I use them all the time for the center front of jackets. The stability is priceless.

       brown wool with pattern piece and french curve laying on top.

      4.  Peplum Front: I straightened the pattern piece to match a jacket front, knowing I would want to continue my closure.

      peplum front pattern pieces on brown wool

      5.  Peplum Back: I added a good deal more fabric to the peplum back (about 2" to pattern piece) because I wanted a kick pleat at the back waist. I guesstimated. It worked.

         

        6.  Lining: Hmm. Ok. I would not use my sassy thin jersey lining idea again. I adjusted for the stretch and allowed for less seam allowance. Big mistake. It pulled, it caught, it whined. It was a horrible idea. If I was going to do it over: a lightweight rosy silk stretch charmeuse. Yes! Oh well.

           brown jersey with pattern piece

          7.  Sleeves. Ok here’s the catch and how I (successfully) planned for it:

          A) The M’Lady’s corset pattern has a rather squared off underarm. I rounded it and added a bit of fabric to my cut with a ā€œthat looks rightā€ eye on the pattern pieces, there are 2 pieces here to consider. Always cut it higher, again, you can trim away, you can’t add back. The multiple seams at the side also give you plenty of room to adjust your fit. You’ll learn the true non-symmetrical reality of your body in this add-edit-and-cut process. Lack of the body’s symmetry is one of the secrets to understanding personal fit success.

          B) What sleeve pattern piece to choose: You can see this is one of my old drafted pattern pieces. How to pick a sleeve: Pick a sleeve from a pattern you already have that is loose enough to be a jacket sleeve. I chose a single piece rather than a double piece because it was for a loose rather than rigid jacket idea. This is most important: You can always make an ample sleeve fit a jacket by pinning it and editing it to what you’re creating. It follows more fabric = more editing options principle. The only thing to be aware of is not to cut too deep a curve away from the top of the sleeve to the underarm edge, while this allows for more underarm room in principle, it only does so if you have matching and loose shirt/jacket designs and pattern pieces. Again, cutting away is easy, adding back is not impossible, but more gnashing of teeth than it’s worth. Make sure you pick a woven sleeve pattern. Creating a good sleeve hang is easily achieved through pinning it to the armseye and adjusting the ease from there.

             

            8.  Pockets. Now the pocket part was brilliant, forgetting to recut them in a matching fabric was my 2nd whoopsie of this project. I wanted you to see that little French-seamed, wonky silk habotai pockets are easy and awesome to add, particularly where you have a natural waist seam, so I cut a couple out of this pale beige silk and then forgot to remake them in the correct and matching green color for the jacket. That’s right. I added them in, after I remembered to rip out the seam where they needed to be inserted. See next photo.

            9.  Leave your front waist seam open for pockets. Whoops again. Doesn’t sewing feel great? I was happily zinging along, forgetting to stop to add pockets. So, the seam ripper. But you can see the shape coming along.

               

              10.  Press errythang. As a young whipper snapper, I didn’t do this. I know how important it is now. Press almost as much as you sew.

                Pressing seams of brown wool 

                11.  Go to bed when you get tired. Otherwise you’ll attach sleeves to the wrong side seam as seen here, because there are 3 side seams.

                   

                  12.  Make a million French knotted loops. I wanted the jacket to have that Elizabethan feel, so I used large hooks but made my own eyes as French knotted loops. They hide better than the metal eyes when the jacket is open and I just love them. I made large ones for these spectacular wooden buttons I used for the pocket closures. (Why? Because I used the wrong pocket fabric = improvised fix). I used one of the oblong wooden buttons at the neck as well. I have 2 different French knotted loops for the small hook at the high neck. I wanted options. Loose or tight depending on the weather.

                     

                    13.  Finishing: Mmmhmm. Well, I’d planned to attach the jersey lining to the hem. Ridiculous in reality due to the pulling of the jersey to wool situation but I hadn’t cut the jacket long enough for a double hem. Solution: I tea-stain dyed some cotton lace and used it to hand finish the wool hem. I hand stitched the jersey to the wool at the front placket and neck. I wanted a subtle edge to both.

                    14.  All in all, other than the need of one more hook and eye where I can now ascertain there’s a bit of gaping, this jacket is a pleasure to wear. Wool is a wonder fabric, self regulating my temperature, which is awesome, because once I get into the hassle of putting it on (again with the lining mistake) I don’t want to pull it on and off. It’s comfy, moves with with me and is a joy to wear. I also slip whatever my 2-year-old decides is her most treasured item of the day, into my little silk pockets and due to the buttons, it’s still there at bedtime when meltdowns occur.

                      woman standing by the side of a house wearing a brown wool coat.

                      I’d do it all again with a silk stretch charmeuse lining. I’d cut the lining the same size as the rest of my pieces and I’d be happy as a peach.

                      I hoped you enjoyed reading about my adventures of my extreme pattern hack of this fab pattern, 267 M'Lady's Corset (and maybe you learned something too).  And are inspired to tackle your own pattern hacking.  Folkwear patterns are a great place to start.

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                      How to Make Authentic Ruching Trim

                      May 14, 2021

                      by Cynthia Anderson

                      Creating our own trim is something we generally do not consider taking the time to do as modern sewists. With all the lovely ribbon, laces, and trims available on the market, it hardly seems necessary. There are times however, when finding the right embellishing trim may not be feasible or the perfect trim simply does not exist. Plus learning to make your own trim embellishments is a tradition that is fun and connects us to generations of past makers whose creativity and techniques are good to learn from.  

                      Until recent history, making your own trim was done by hand. The techniques found in the our 123 Austrian Dirndl Pattern have long been a part of European trim, or ruching, making traditions and culture that continue today. These trim techniques are synonymous but not limited to the dirndl. The dirndl may be the traditional dress of Austria and Southern Germany, but this popular silhouette makes a beautiful everyday summer dress as well. Whether you embellish it or not, is up to you. Though resisting these trims may prove difficult.

                      The 123 Austrian Dirndl comes with a plethora of extra information and history to help inspire anyone interested in not only making the dirndl, but the authentic trims. You will find seven different ruching trimmings to try.  All the trims are stunning on their own and can be combined in numerous ways, or masterfully paired to make one fabulous trim (as in the photo above). Upon closer inspection, it is not hard to imagine all the different types of projects that these ruching trims could be used for. These techniques are fun and easy to master and so beautiful! You can also find all the information you need in the PDF version of the 123 Austrian Dirndl.

                      Materials

                      All the ruching techniques offered in this pattern start with a tube of cloth or ribbon, that is then hand-stitched in various ways and pulled up to form a repeated motif. Tubes cut on the bias are generally preferred, because fabric cut on the bias naturally allows for bending into curves that lay smoothly. This is especially true when applying trim to necklines, armholes, or any curved shape or edge. Detailed instructions on how to make a continuous bias strip or tape are included in the pattern. You can also view this extremely helpful video we made on how to make lots of continuous bias tape.


                      In this blog I will be demonstrating the Holflaten, also called a Whole Folds or Box Pleat Ruching, and the Rosenrushe or Rose Ruching. These rushing techniques start with making a tube cut on the bias or straight grain. The fabric I am using here is cut on the straight grain to economize fabric and for the ease of time.

                      Ribbon can be used for making many straight grain techniques as well. Silk ribbon cut on the bias is especially nice when bias is required. You can find beautiful bias hand dyed silk ribbon by Hannah Silks on Etsy.

                      That's not all, the Herzrusche or Heart Ruching will be demonstrated using a sateen finished ribbon, because everyone should be inspired to make this beauty!

                      Getting Started

                      First you need to determine the width and length of your tube, or ribbon, if you have a specific purpose in mind.  When deciding on the width, simply experiment to see what proportions you like depending on application. Your final widths for the tube, or ribbon width, can be between 1/2" to 1-3/4", depending on the look you want and the weight of fabric, or ribbon, you are using.

                      To make a fabric tube for the trim, cut your fabric two times as wide as the final tube plus 1/4 inch (6mm) for seam allowances.  For example, for a 1-inch (2.5cm) tube, cut bias strips 2 inches (5cm) wide plus 1/4 inch (6mm), or 2-1/2 inches (6.3cm) in total width.

                      Keep in mind that the fabric weight. Heavier weight fabrics generally work best for wider trims that do not require fitting along tight curves or shapes. Lighter and finer weight fabrics work best for more narrow trim widths and will allow for fitting along tighter curves or shapes.

                      The length of bias you will need to make your ruching also depends on how heavy your fabric. It is best to experiment with scraps before cutting your bias strips to help determine width and length. Below are the approximate length calculations for the ruching designs used in this blog.

                      • Holfalten and Rosenrusche Ruching - cut length of fabric tube, or ribbon, 2.5 times the finished length (i.e. multiply desired finished length by 2.5).
                      • Herzrusche Ruching - cut length of fabric tube, or ribbon, 1.75 times the finished length (multiply finished length given by 1.75).

                          For demonstrating these rushing techniques, I have cut a strip of laundered silk dupioni on the straight grain approximately one yard (.9m) long. Laundering silk dupioni reduces the shine and softens the fabric. This length is plenty for experimenting. Since we are merely experimenting, a one-yard length can be used for more that one technique and then cut apart if desired. Cotton muslin is perfect for experimenting in making ruching either on the straight grain and/or bias as well.

                          Make a Ruching Tube

                          Strip of Rushing tubing laying flat


                          Fold the strip of fabric in half with right sides together, matching and pin the edges every two to three inches (5.75cm), then sew a 1/4 inch (6mm) seam allowance. If working with a bias cut tube, try not to pull or stretch while pinning and sewing or the tube will not lay flat when turned, which will cause pleating difficulties.

                          Ruching tube pinned right sides together.


                          Press the seam open. If experimenting go ahead and press the edges creating a crease. However, on some ruching, you may not want a crease in your fabric and want rounded edges.  You can finger press in those instances. 

                          Ruching tube seam allowance pressed open.


                          Next turn the tube. To help turn the tube right side out, thread a cord or yarn through the tube with a safety pin. Pin the cord/yarn to the end of the tube and use the cord pull back through.

                          Turn tube right side out using yarn and safety pin.

                          Or stitch across the cord/yarn to hold it securely in place and use the cord/yarn to pull back through.

                          Yarn sewn to tube edge to help with turning right side out.

                          Try to keep the seam allowances open inside the tube. As you pull the tube right side out, it will help to pin the seam allowances in place as you go.

                          Turning tube right side out with seam allowances laying flat.
                          Photo turning tube right side out.

                          Clip off the end with the cord/yarn or remove the stitches to release the cord/ yarn.

                          Trimming the yarn from the tube.

                          To make experimenting easier, you can press the tube creating creased edges. Be sure the seam is in the center back (underneath side) of the tube and not at an edge. Placing the seam at an edge hampers folding.

                          Note, that when making a final strip of ruching you may prefer the look of gently rounder edges instead of pressed edges. Once you get the hang of making ruching using a tube, try avoiding pressing the edges, so you can compare the effects.

                          A yard of tubing turned and ready for ruching.


                          Now that the tube is complete, lets make some ruching.

                          Holfalten, or Box Pleat, Ruching

                          To make the Holfalten (Whole Folds) Ruching the tube is pinned into box pleats, then stitched down the middle of the tube to secure the pleats in place. Box pleating ruching is lovely on its own. However, we will use this technique for the foundation in making the Rosenrusche Ruching below.

                          Begin by working on the underneath side, or the side with the center seam. Notice the center seam in the photo below.

                          To make using a 1-inch (2.5cm) wide tube, place spacing pins 2 inches (5cm) apart with 1 inch (2.5cm) between the spaces.

                          Tubing with pins marking the folds of the box-pleat ruching.

                          The red tip pin indicates the center point between the two white tip pins spaced 2 inches (5cm) apart. The far left pin indicates the 1 inch (2.5cm) space. Don't worry about the 1 inch (2.5cm) pin for now.

                          A view of the 2-inch pin markings and the red center pin marking.

                          Starting at the right hand edge, fold so that the 2 inch (5cm) spacing (white tip) pins meet in the center (indicated by red tip pin) of the 2 inch (5cm) space. This automatically creates two 1-inch (2.5cm) underfolds which will extend under the 1-inch (2.5cm) spaces, which will become the top folds or box-pleats.

                          The first box-pleat fold matching white pin to red pin.

                          Notice the underneath side fold and seam below.

                          The second fold of the box-pleat matching white pin to center red pin.

                          View of top fold below (notice there is no center back seam, and the box pleat is seen on the front side).

                          The front view of the first complete box-pleat.

                          Repeat making as many box pleats as you want. The idea is to make the box pleats the same width consistently.  If you find folding and measuring with the fabric fiddly at first, practice using a strip of paper instead.

                          Below is a view of the box-pleats seen from the back or underneath side. Notice the seam.

                          Back or underneath view of box-pleat ruching.

                          Below is a view of the box-pleats flipped over to the front side.

                          Front view of box-pleat ruching.

                          Stitch by machine, using a long stitch length through the center of the tube to hold the folds in place. Now, the box pleating is finished to be used alone or transformed into the Rosenrusche or Rose Rushing as instructed below.

                          Up close view of box-pleat ruching sewn down the center of the tube.

                           

                          Rosenrusche, or Rose Ruching

                          This trim may look more like bows than roses, but is simple to make and quite decorative. To make the Rose Ruching you will need to start with the box-pleat ruching as the foundation. The roses are created by matching the center edge of each box-pleat and stitching them into place.

                          Start with a knotted double threaded hand-sewing needle, long enough to use continuously as you work.

                          On the underneath side, bring double threaded needle up through the center of the square at the center stitching on the front side of the box-pleat.

                          Starting stitch of the rose ruching using the box-pleat ruching as a foundation.

                          Then make two small stitches, one on each side of the center point.

                          Making the two small gathering stitches in the center of the rose ruching.

                          Draw these points together and stitch down through center to the underneath side, to anchor these stitches.

                          Center rose ruching stitches gathered and anchored on the underneath side.

                          Come up again from the underneath side, to the front side through center of stitching.

                          Come up again from the underneath side, to the front side through center of stitching.

                          This time, catch both edges at the center of the box-pleat with the needle and thread, pulling them together. Secure the edges with a couple of small stitches, knotting at the second stitch to secure. Follow the sequence of photos below.

                          Catching the top center edge of the rose rushing.
                          Catching the bottom edge of the rose ruching.
                          Drawing the top and bottom edge of the rose ruching together.
                          Stitching the rose ruching center edges together.

                          To continue using one continuous thread, part the gathered section at the base of the rose and send the needle back through the center front to the back or underneath side.

                          Passing the needle from the front to the back of the rose rushing to finish the first rose.

                          While still on the underneath side, start the next rose by drawing the thread over the box-pleat as seen below. Then pass the needle and thread through the center fold on the underneath side, coming up through the center of the box-pleat on the front side. Below is a view of the continuous thread stretched across the underneath side and inserted into the center of next box pleat.

                          The continuous thread stretched across the underneath side and inserted into the center of next box pleat.

                          Repeat until you have finished turning the box-pleats into rose ruching.

                          Complete Rose Ruching

                           

                          Herzrusche, or Heart Ruching

                          This trim looks a bit like the flower known as bleeding heart, but not so much like a traditional Valentine heart. It is amazing how by simply drawing fabric up on itself, such a lovely soft three-dimensional effect can be created. This technique is worked on the underneath side, so be sure turn your work over from time to time, and inspect the beauty happening on the front side!

                          The Heart Ruching can be made using a fabric tube or ribbon, on the straight grain or bias. A satin finish ribbon is being used for this demonstration. The sheen of the ribbon reflects the light, creating an enchanting effect.

                          Start by making the stitching guides. Lightly mark these guides with pencil on the underneath side of the ribbon. Measure the points one-inch apart along the top and bottom edge of the ribbon, keeping the points perpendicular. Then mark the center between the one-inch points with a lightly drawn "x" as seen below.

                          Use a long thread so the stitching can be as continuous as possible. 

                          Stitching markings on back of ribbon for Heart Ruching

                          With the underneath side up, pinch the two edges of the ribbon together, matching the drawn points and tack the edges together with a couple of stitches. Knot the last stitch to ensure the edges stay securely together.

                          Stitching the edge points together on Heart Ruching
                          Creating a knot in the final stitch.
                          Tieing a knot in the second stitch to secure edge of the Heart Ruching

                          Pass the eye of the needle through or under the stitched edges from right to left. Passing the needle through backwards helps prevent nicking or catching the ribbon with the needle.

                          Passing the needle backwards through the ribbon tunnel.

                          Turn the needle around and create a horizontal stitch at the center "x", inserting the needle from the right to the left as seen below.

                          Making a stich through the center point of the Heart Ruching

                          Pull the needle and thread left all the way through the stitch.

                          Pulling thread through center stitch of Heart Ruching

                          Now, pull the thread in the opposite direction (to the right), drawing it up, until the center stitch meets the first stitch, forming a small pinched triangle on the front side. The idea is to pull, drawing the center stitch to the already stitched edges.

                          Pulling the center stitch to the edge stitch of Heart Ruching

                          Hold the two combined stitches firmly, with the edges folded downward with your fingers, then make a couple of stitches to secure the edges together. Knot the final stitch to hold.

                          Holding and tacking the center stitch and edge stitch together for Heart Ruching

                          Remember, all of the work thus far has happened on the underneath side. In order to see the how the final ruching is looking, turn your work to inspect your progress. The photo below depicts how the small pinched triangle on the front side should look.

                          Note: Keeping the spacing equal and tension even on the overlaying thread is the key to mastering this technique.

                          The right side of Heart Ruching ribbon after first set of stitches are made.

                          Again, turn so the underneath side is facing up. Pinch, matching the next set of edge dots; notice when starting to make this second edge stitch, the thread is continuous and carried from the right to the left, with the thread stretched between the first set of combined stitches and the start of the second edge stitch. See second photo below.

                          Edge stitiching the second set of edges for Heart Ruching

                          Look closely at the free floating horizontal thread connecting one finished set of stitches with the beginning of the next set of edge stitches.

                          View of continous thread on underneath side of Heart Ruching

                          Be sure to gently pull the thread just enough to allow the trim to remain horizontal before stitching the edges together. If you pull the thread too much the ribbon will gather up on itself. The idea is to keep the ribbon ruching laying relatively flat.

                          Repeat tacking the two edges together as before, continue drawing up the center "x" stitch and drawing it to the edge stitch, and securing it in place. Continue, repeating the steps until you have as much ruching as your heart desires!

                          Finished Heart Ruching
                          Combining Trims

                          This blog is a testament to how easy it is to make authentic ruching trim, because I had never made any trim before in my life. I am thrilled with the results and can hardly wait to make all seven techniques! I hope this blog inspires you to discover the pleasure and satisfaction of making ruching.  All it takes is a simple needle & thread and a strip of fabric or ribbon.

                          In the photo below, I paired the Rosenrucshe (Rose Rushing) with the Waffelrushe (Waffle Ruching) because I simply could not help it. Instructions for the Waffele Ruching is also included in the pattern.  I hope you enjoy making trim as much as I have!

                           

                           

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                          How To Transfer Embroidery Designs to Fabric

                          May 11, 2021 3 Comments

                          Many Folkwear patterns include embroidery designs - to add traditional embroidery to folk garments and to add period embellishments to historic garments.  Some of our patterns have extensive embroidery designs (such as 101 Gaza Dress, 103 Romanian Blouse, 126 Vests of Greece and Poland, 114 Chinese Jacket).  And some have smaller designs that can be added as desired (113 Japanese Kimono, 209 Walking Skirt, 264 Monte Carlo Dress).  In our paper patterns, embroidery designs sometimes come on transfer paper so they can easily be moved to the garment to set up the embroidery.  But some patterns, and all of our PDF patterns, have designs on paper that you need to transfer yourself to the garment you wish to add them to.  

                          We are featuring our 264 Monte Carlo Dress pattern this month, and includes a number of Art Deco designs printed on transfer paper.  These are gorgeous added to the front of the dress - or to the tunic.  This blog post will show you how to transfer the designs (or any design) from paper to your fabric if you don't have designs printed on transfer paper.  We will show several techniques below that can be used for any of our patterns. 

                          Using Iron on Transfer Pencil

                          To use an iron-on transfer pencil (or transfer pens), print the embroidery pattern on regular paper, then trace the design with an iron-on transfer pencil.  

                          Tracing a design with transfer pencil

                          Then place the design down on your fabric with the pencil markings facing the fabric and press with a hot iron.

                          Embroidery design placed face down on fabric

                          Embroidery design transferred to muslin.

                          A couple of tips:
                          1.  These markings are permanent, so make sure you place your design right where you want it.  It cannot be moved after pressing.  Also make sure your pencil lines are not too wide that they will be seen after embroidery is complete.  And, make sure the markings you make are where you want them on the paper.  Mistakes will also transfer and cannot wash out.  So, if you make a mistake, just print another design and start again.
                          2.  You can use any color pencil, but make sure the markings will show up on your fabric.  For dark fabrics, use a lighter colored pencil (light blue or even white if you can find it).
                          3.  If you trace on top of the embroidery design, when you flip it over, you will be pressing the mirror image onto your fabric.  This is not a problem if your image is symmetrical.  But, if your image is asymmetrical and you want to transfer the exact image that is printed, you should trace the image from the back of the paper and press the back side to your fabric (again, side with pencil markings to fabric).  You can see how to do this in the photos below.

                          Tracing embroidery design with transfer pencil.

                          Embroidery design on cloth ready to press

                          Pressing embroidery design

                          Embroidery design transferred to cloth.

                          Using Water Soluble Pens

                          Water-soluble pens create marks that wash off easily in water - also called water erasable pens.  I often use washable Crayola markers when sewing, but usually the water soluble pens have a much more fine tip and are great for making more precise markings or fine lines so are perfect for embroidery transfer.  

                          They are best used for lighter-colored fabrics.  You can often set the printed design under the fabric and trace it right onto your fabric with the pen.  If it is too hard to see through the fabric to trace on a table, you can use a light table or a window, or even an iPad (or device) if your embroidery pattern is digital.  Tape your embroidery design on a light filled window and secure (tape) your fabric to the window over the design.  Then trace the design on to the fabric. I show how to do this in the photos below.  Make sure to secure your fabric well on the table or window so it does not shift easily when tracing - pattern weights or tape can work well.  You could even tape the design to the back of the fabric to keep it secure. 

                          Tracing the design through semi-sheer voile fabric, directly onto the fabric:

                          Tracing design onto fabric.

                          Using a window to trace the design onto fabric: 

                          Embroidery design taped on window

                          Cloth over embroidery design

                          Tracing embroidery design on window

                          Embroidery design transferred

                          The nice thing about these pens is the markings wash away.  So, if you make a mistake, you can wash it off, or if you decide to change your design, it is easy to do.  And the lines wash away when you are done embroidering (in case you went "out of the lines" when sewing).  However, the lines can be very light and can disappear over a few days.  It's not a bad idea to re-trace them, and if your embroidery takes a few days to complete, re-trace the lines often.

                          Using Carbon Paper (helpful for dark fabrics)

                          Dressmakers carbon paper is a great way to transfer embroidery designs, especially on dark or heavy fabrics.  It is easiest to use white or light colored carbon paper so you can see the embroidery design through it.  Carbon paper is also great because it does not leave permanent marks.

                          First lightly trace the design onto the paper side (back side) of your carbon paper. 

                          Tracing a pattern on paper

                          Then, place the carbon paper over your fabric and using a pen (the cheap, round tip pens work well) trace over the design you just traced with the pencil, pressing harder through the paper.  You don't want to puncture the paper, just press into it.  The design transfers to your fabric!

                          Embroidery design over dark fabric

                          re-tracing embroidery design over dark fabric

                          embroidery design traced with a pen

                          embroidery design transferred to dark fabric

                          Depending on how well the design transfers (and your fabric), it might be a good idea to re-trace the design after removing the carbon paper to make the lines more distinct.  If you use a non-washable pen (like a white gel pen) to re-trace lines, just be aware that those lines will will be permanent, but likely covered by embroidery.  For a washable marking, you can use a quilters chalk pencil with a fine tip. The carbon paper lines can smudge if you are doing a lot of work or working on the project over several days, so re-tracing can be helpful.  

                          Other Transfer Options

                          There are several other ways to transfer designs.  If your design is digital, or can be printed, you can print it on a regular home printer on transfer paper that can the be ironed onto your fabric, transferring the design. Usually these transfers are permanent, but there are some options that claim to be wash-away. There are also papers you can print on then pin or baste over your fabric, stitching through paper and fabric, which then wash away (dissolve) in water when you are finished stitching.

                          Prick and Pounce.  This technique involves pricking small holes along the paper in the shape of the embroidery design (i.e. over your printed design), dusting chalk powder over the holes so they come through on your fabric.  This technique is easiest if the design is very simple with longer lines.  A needle point tracer wheel is good to use for this technique. And, I usually trace the design with a water soluble pen or other tool afterward because the lines can rub away fairly easily.

                          I hope these give you some good ideas on how to easily transfer embroidery designs to fabric.  Do you embroider?  What are your favorite methods of transferring patterns to fabric? 

                           

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                          Last Minute Mother's Day Ideas

                          May 06, 2021 4 Comments

                          Mother's Day is coming up for those of us in North America, and we have some great Folkwear ideas for gifting.  These are perfect last minute gifts!

                          271 Sunset Wrap.  This is a very very quick make.  You can cut it out and sew it up in less than 2 hours.  There is no fitting needed as it is a one-size garment, and it makes a lovely and interesting wrap/shawl/scarf.  All you need is about 2 yards of fabric and the pattern (and thread).  And, the pattern can be downloaded instantly as a PDF so you can start this today!

                          Woman standing in a doorway with a white one-arm shawl wrapped around her shoulders

                           

                          Sew up one of our 146 Six Bags from Around the World.  Any of these patterns can make a beautiful and useful (and very quick-to-make) gift.  Add embroidery for a special touch.  This pattern is only available as a PDF - so get it instantly and get to work!  If you've never used PDF patterns, this is a great one to start with because there are only a few print-at-home sheets to use for most of the bags.  The Turkish Drawstring bag (below) print on one sheet, take less than 1/4 yard of fabric, sew up in about 30 minutes, and can be easily embellished (add an embroidered monogram). 

                          Two Turkish drawstring bags laying on wooden deck

                           

                          The 129A Japanese Tabi pattern has been very popular recently.  This pattern makes a great set of socks to use at home puttering around the house.  Keeping feet warm and allowing sandals to be worn with them too.  This one is also available as a PDF (as well as print) pattern so you get get it right away.

                          Feet of two people wearing Japanese Tabi socks.

                           

                          269 Metropolitan Hat.  A very popular pattern for good reason.  It is easy and quick to sew and makes a cute hat with endless variations. This would be a great gift to sew up and give to a mother who enjoys hats.  Also available as a PDF pattern (as well as print) to download and use today!  Also, it only prints on 7 pieces of paper at home, so it's not hard to use.

                          Woman wearing a grey hat facing away from camera.

                           

                          Other great gifts would be:

                          A Folkwear travel pouch would be great and very useful (and so fun and colorful)!

                          Travel pouch made from african wax print

                          Make a bag from our free pattern!

                          Woman with an orange and white bag

                          Sewing supplies - we have a number of very useful tools from embroidery thread to bias tape makers to buttonhole cutters.

                          A pattern!  Choose from nearly 100 patterns to gift your mother.

                          <

                          Gift card.  A great option when you can't decide (you also get it right away!).

                           Gift Card photo

                           

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                          Sew the 153 Siberian Parka in Waxed Cotton

                          April 28, 2021 2 Comments

                          Cynthia made a beautiful 153 Siberian Parka from a waxed canvas.  This pattern is perfect for cold weather, but also makes a great shoulder season staple.  Made in a lighter weight fabric or weather resistant fabric, it can make a great raincoat or quick-and-easy extra layer in the spring or fall.  Check out this rain-resistant waxed canvas Parka, and learn some sewing tips for working with waxed canvas.

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                          203 Edwardian Underthings Up Close

                          April 26, 2021

                          When we decided last month to feature our 203 Edwardian Underthings pattern, we agreed to make an outfit that shows how the three garments in the pattern can be used to make an outfit that is not just historic underwear.  You can read more about how to style these wonderful pieces here.  

                          Three of us in the office (Esi, Cynthia, and Molly) made these three garments from 203 Edwardian Underthings pattern.  We chose a beautiful white embroidered eyelet type fabric for the drawers.  I think I bought the fabric in NYC Garment District, and was saving it for a project like this (we have several romantic patterns in the Folkwear collection perfect for eyelet).  For the petticoat and the camisole, we wanted something a little lighter-weight and the new organic cotton voiles that we carry now were perfect.  We chose the lilac and blush colors - so sweet for springtime.  They were the perfect weight and sheer-ness for this project!

                          Esi made the camisole with the simple pintucks at the front and small gathers at the waist as the pattern instructs.  Instead of eyelet lace or beading at the neckline for the ribbon, she just turned under the allowance to make a casing and threaded a ribbon through.  Pretty little rounded purple-pink buttons finished it off.

                          Woman standing outside by boxwood hedge wearing jeans and a pink cami

                          woman wearing pink camisole

                          The next garment to be made was the white drawers made of eyelet fabric.  In the pattern, the drawers come to just below the knees, but we wanted them longer.  We have seen the trend of these old-fashioned long drawers that look so stylish with every-day tops (and very romantic and chic).  Cynthia lengthened the drawers at the hem line of the main pieces, and kept the ruffle the same length as indicated in the pattern.  Because she used the edge of the eyelet that was already finished, she did not need to hem the drawers.  She made the plackets from a lighter weight white cotton voile.  And you can read about how to make the plackets here if you need a little tutorial to help get them done.  There is a placket on each side of the waistband.  This is a perfect place to put a pocket (if you can add a pocket to a placket), but also a perfect place for a Victorian type pocket.  

                          Young woman standing by a boxwood hedge wearing white drawers and a pink camisole.

                          Young woman standing by a boxwood hedge wearing white drawers and a pink camisole.

                          Young woman standing by a boxwood hedge wearing white drawers and a pink camisole. Her back is turned.

                          Young woman standing by a boxwood hedge wearing white drawers and a pink camisole.  Her hands are in the plackets
                          Hands in plackets (not pockets)

                          close up of eyelet fabric ruffle hem
                          This is a close up of the fabric ruffle.  You can see the eyelet fabric edge and how this edges does not need to be hemmed.

                          Finally, the petticoat was made from the lilac cotton voile.  I shorted in the skirt part of the pattern by about 4 inches.  And I made the petticoat with the dust ruffle, which is optional.  I wanted to add the dust ruffle just to give a little extra body to the bottom of the petticoat.  It also makes a fun detail.  Because the dust ruffle seam allowance is exposed on the right side of the fabric, you need to sew a ribbon or bias binding over the allowance to enclose it.  I used scraps from the camisole to make bias binding to add a touch of color to the inside of the petticoat.  I used the method we show in this video to make lots of bias binding fairly quickly and very easily.  

                          Young woman wearing a purple petticoat, pink cami, standing by boxwood hedge.

                          The ruffle is sewn to the skirt about 6.5" above the bottom of the skirt and dust ruffle and covers the bottom.  There are options to add insertion lace here and/or pintucks.  I decided to add the pintucks, which were quite easy.  The method taught in the pattern has the raw edge of the hem hidden inside the lowest pintuck.  Quite ingenious and easy.  As with the dust ruffle, the outer ruffle seam allowance is exposed on the outside of the petticoat. It can be covered with a ribbon for a more decorative finish, but I just made more bias binding from the scraps of fabric from cutting out the pattern.  

                          The waist of the petticoat is just a casing on the inside with a ribbon to cinch.  Again, I used bias binding made from the camisole scraps and for ribbon, I used a seam binding in my collection (which worked really well and was a pale pink), but ribbon, twill tape, or handmade bias binding would work well.  

                          close up of bottom of petticoat and drawers
                          Here you can see the pintucks on the ruffle, the dust ruffle underneath, and the bias binding that finishes each ruffle.

                          Young woman outside by a boxwood hedge wearing a purple petticoat and pink cami.  It is springtime.

                          Back of woman wearing a purple petticoat, outside by a hedge.

                          Young woman by a boxwood hedge lifting her petticoat to show drawers underneath

                          Young woman raising her purple petticoat to show off drawers on a spring day.

                          These pieces are all adorable on their own, but quite stunning together.  I hope you will give this pattern a try!  It is sweet.

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                          How to Sew a Placket - from the 203 Edwardian Underthings

                          April 22, 2021 1 Comment

                          What is a placket, you might ask?  You have seen them and used them before!  A placket is an opening or slit in a garment at the waist, neck, or sleeves to help the user put the garment on and off easily.  It usually contains some kind of closure for the garment (like buttons, snaps, zip, etc.).  The slip of fabric must be contained, or faced, so it looks good and the fabric does not unravel or fall apart.  Plackets can vary depending on application - there are plackets used for shirt neck openings, vents, sleeve openings, pant and skirt openings. Plackets are commonly found in tailored shirt sleeves.

                          Here I am going to show you how to make the placket that is in our 203 Edwardian Underthings Pattern. This pattern has a petticoat and drawers that result in a beautifully finished opening. The plackets make the petticoat and drawers easy to get in and out of, and are authentic to the time period when zippers were not used or common.  The petticoat has a placket in the center back seam. The drawers have plackets at each side seam of the waist for added easy accessibility.  

                          This type of placket creates a continuous binding to the raw edges of the seam opening, resulting in a clean tailored finish that can be used on shirt sleeves also.  This design results in a neat-crisp tailored-looking finish that is well worth the effort. This placket design is a handy skill to learn, and the more skills you know, the more options your sewing will have. 

                          It can help to make a practice placket or two before you attempt the placket on your final project. When practicing, and to help with eliminating any confusion, use a fabric with an obvious right and wrong side. This will help prevent getting tangled up.

                          Take time to prepare the placket so construction will go more smoothly. The placket should be cut precisely on the grain to ensure the fabric folds as crisply and accurately as possible. Carefully mark the fold lines, stitch lines, and the dots for the clipping lines as indicated on the pattern. Use a fine pencil, or other marking tool, to create all the necessary marking on the practice piece to help guide the construction and accuracy.  See photo below.

                          Placket markings and pattern piece

                          It also helps to use a fabric for the placket that will not fray easily. Try using a finely woven cotton batiste or muslin for your practice fabric.

                          For these plackets, I prepared the center back of the petticoat and the side seams of the drawers according to the pattern instructions. In getting started it is helpful to know that when the placket is finished, the wider back section with the point will lay and fasten over the front or narrow section of the placket. Have a look at a tailored shirt sleeve as an example.

                          To add the placket to the petticoat get oriented first: Pin the wider section of the placket to the left-hand side of petticoat or skirt back.

                          To add the placket to the drawers get oriented first: Make the placket on the right-hand side first, which is identical to the petticoat instructions. Pin wider section of placket to Back of drawers.

                          Pin the wider section of the placket to the back piece of the garment opening only (as seen below). Place the right side of the placket to the wrong side of the back garment piece, match the box, notches and waist edge. Notice the straight edge aligns with the waist edge. Stitch from the waist edge to the center of the square, using a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance. Be sure to back-stitch at the waist edge and carefully at the square.
                          Wide section of lacket pinned to garment

                          Clip the seam allowance of the garment to the square. Do not clip into the placket. Clipping the seam allowance of the garment fabric, releases the fabric so it will open up and lay flat for easier construction. See the photo below.

                          Press the seam open or to the back of the garment depending on how you choose to finish the garment seams.

                          garement seam allowance clipped.

                          With the garment seem allowance clipped the fabric should relatively flat. Pin and stitch the narrower section of the placket to the other or front side of the garment opening. Be sure to pin the right side of the placket to the wrong side of the main fabric as seen in the photo below. Stitch using a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance from the square center to the waist edge. Be sure to back-stitch at the waist edge and carefully at the square.

                          Narrow section pf pplacket pinned to garment.
                          Sewing the 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
                          Sewing placket too garment using 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance

                          Press the seam towards the placket. Notice that the right side of the placket is facing up and the wrong side of the garment is facing up in the photo below.

                          Seam press toward placket.

                          On the wider section of the placket, clip the inside of the point to the small dots indicated on the pattern. See the drawn guide line in the photo below.

                          Clipping guide line on pointed section of placket

                          Carefully clipping the guide line, Avoid cutting beyond the dot and into the fabric.

                          carefully clipping point guidelines.

                          Press the point edges under 1/4" (6mm) creating a crisp and clean finish.

                          Pressing point of placket in place.

                          One point edge pressed tuner 1/4" (6mm).

                          First placket point fold pressed.

                          The other point edge pressed under 1/4" (6mm) creating a clean point.

                          Second placket point pressed.

                           

                          Now, press under the long edges of both sections of the placket using a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.

                          Helpful Hint: To make turning the edges under easier, make a folding guide by sewing a long stay-stitch. Leave thread tails on each end. Once the edge is turned and pressed, the stay-stitch can be easily removed by gently pulling the thread tails. See photo below.

                          Stay-stitch as guide for folding edges.

                          Pressing the edges under 1/4" (6mm).

                          Pressing under the long edges of placket.
                          Notice the stay-stitching being used as a turning and pressing guide in the photo below.
                          Close up photo of pressing under placket edges.

                          Turn the narrow section of the placket to the right side to the garment fabric at the seam line and press.

                          Narrow placket section turned to right side of garment fabric.

                          To secure the narrow placket to the garment fabric, pin and top-stitch in place from the waist to small dot on the turned under edge, as indicated on the pattern. Note, the folded outer edge does not require top-stitching.

                          The two sides of the placket should naturally fold and lay into place as seen below. Note, that the narrow section of the placket falls to the inside of the opening. The wider section with the point falls to the outside of the garment, covering and laying on top of the narrow section. Be sure the edges are aligned as they should be. Adjust the turned edges if needed.

                           

                          Narrow section of placket pinned to right side of garment.
                          Narrow side of placket top-stitched in place.

                          Fold the remaining wider section of the placket, wrong sides together, on the  lengthwise center fold line as indicated on the pattern and press creating a clean crisp edge. Pin the turned-under edge over the seam line, using the seam line as a guide. Top-stitch from waist edge to star (as indicated on the pattern), taking care not to catch the stitching in other side of narrow placket underneath.

                          Wide section of placket pinned and ready to be stitched.
                          Top-stitching wide section of placket into place.

                          Pin the pointed end of the placket, over the narrow side of the placket (point will extend below). The idea is to securely stitch the two sections of the placket together at the pointed end.

                          Placket point pinned in preparation for top-stitching the point.
                          Re-start the stitching by covering a few stitches where you left off. This will help your stitching to look continual and prevent needing to back stitch. Top-stitch around point, up 1/2" (13mm) on each side, and across the placket as seen below. Instead of back-stitching, try to end the stitching exactly on top of the beginning stitches. This simply helps to minimize bulky stitching in an already tiny area.
                          The placket top-stitched around the point..

                          That's it! Placket beautifully made. While learning to make plackets may take a bit of practice, the results are well worth the effort. Plackets are useful and beautiful elements that will elevate any sewing project. Plus, Folkwear has many patterns that are made even more special due to their beautiful plackets. If you need more placket sewing inspiration Folkwear has it covered... check out the 102 French Cheesemaker's Smock, 116 Shirts of Russia & Ukraine, 117 Croatian Shirt, 120 Navajo Blouse & Skirt, 124 Bolivian Milkmaid's Jacket, 128 Russian Settler's Dress, 130 Austrian Bush Outfit,

                          I hope you found this blog tutorial helpful and please keep as a reference for the next time you need to make a placket.

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

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                          Styling the 203 Edwardian Underthings

                          April 20, 2021 1 Comment

                          The Edwardian Era is synonymous with a feminine and charming aesthetic that still stirs the senses, leaving romantic notions in it’s wake. Few eras in history have ever inspired such titles as The Belle Epoche (Beautiful Era) and The Gilded Age. There seemed nothing that was left untouched by the lingering swirl of the romantically bohemian art movement known as Art Nouveau. An appreciation for all things feminine and natural created a blending of influences that would leave a lasting mark on the definition of beauty. This all consuming notion would makes it's mark on nearly everything, including underclothes.

                          Learn a bit more about the History of the Edwardian Era and the revolution that would change underthings forever in this blog.

                           

                          Art Nouvea Champagne ad
                          The champagne advertisement above is a perfect example of Art Nouveau.



                          There is something irresistible about the diaphanous white underthings of the Edwardian period, whether simple or embellished in delicate lace, that pulls at one’s romantic strings. The 203 Edwardian Underthings Pattern conjures up beguiling ideals of this bygone era that still manages to possess. It would be the addition of lace embellishments that would transform previously everyday undergarments into a new fixating trend called lingerie. Advancements in industrial manufactured lace created a lingerie explosion that resulted in an industry born of a desire for beautiful things, even if they were hidden from sight.

                           

                          Woman wearing white Edwardian Underthings - a camisole and drawers

                          Our 203 Edwardian Underthings pattern consists of three mainstay lingerie pieces of an Edwardian woman’s wardrobe; a camisole (corset cover), petticoat, and drawers. Each piece is offered is in sizes XS-3XL. You can use the pattern to make your own beautiful Edwardian-inspired lingerie, or re-imagine each piece for everyday wear!

                          Woman wearing a white camisole from the Edwardian underthings pattern with jeans

                          The camisole design in this pattern is slightly high-waisted and is fitted in the back, it is bloused in the front, with a soft fullness falling from a gathered neckline. The front of this camisole closes with drawstrings or either ribbons ties at the neckline and waist, and a buttoned front opening. This is a perfectly romantic top, no matter how you wear it, so why not everyday!

                          For Example:

                          • Wearing as a single layer top.
                          • Wear like a vest... over a blouse or dress, with any sleeve length or sleeveless for a romantic layered look.
                          • Pair with skirts, jeans, peddle-pushers, or long flowy pants.
                          • Make out of flannel as a pajama top.
                          • Add lace and embroidery detailing to a floral print fabric (like a Liberty print) to make a romantic everyday top.

                           Young woman standing outside beside boxwood hedges wearing a pink camisole and blue jeans.

                          For a truly Edwardian look, accentuate the bodice of the camisole with clusters of tucks (as indicated on the pattern) and/or add lace insertions. The neckline and armholes can also be trimmed with lace or eyelet edging or just turned under.  The pattern also has three crochet patterns to create your own insertion lace and lace edgings.

                          The gored petticoat in the pattern falls to a wide flounce with a dust ruffle at the hemline. It has a drawstring tie at a back placket opening. The simple design of this piece allows for plenty of embellishment options. Add as many tucks, lace insertions and trims, as well as embroidery touches, as your heart desires (instructions for these embellishments are in the pattern). 

                          Young woman in Edwardian petticoat, drawers, and camisole beside boxwood bushes outside.
                          Young woman beside boxwood bushes outside wearing a pink camisole, lilac petticoat, and white drawers.

                          However, if you think of this petticoat as a skirt, the options are endless! There is no reason why this pattern would not also make a perfect everyday skirt, underskirt, or half slip… with or without the ruffle.

                          For example:

                          • Consider making an outer petticoat/skirt without a ruffle and layer over a petticoat with a ruffle that peeks out at the bottom edge. Layered skirts are very fashionable.
                          • Use semi-sheer fabric to make a skirt comprised of two layers.  Use different colored fabrics, have one peeking out over or under the other for a fun and flouncy look. See our beautiful spring cotton voile fabric offerings.
                          • Make a semi-sheer petticoat and wear it as a top skirt, with a second colored skirt underneath.
                          • Treat as a slip to provide body under a dress or skirt (and will be a romantic secret, especially if you've added the lace, tucks, etc.).
                          • Wear a petticoat/skirt over pants or drawers (as above).
                          Of course, you can shorten or lengthen the petticoat pattern to suit yourself. Secure the placket at the center back with additional buttons, hooks, or snaps.  No matter the weather, petticoats are great for adding a romantic layering touch to any wardrobe. 

                            Don’t forget the knee-length drawers or ā€œknickers!" These drawers gather at a curved waistband, are constructed with a front gusset and two buttoned side plackets, then finished with a ruffle at the knees. The drawers can also be decorated with tucking and/or lace or eyelet trim or embroidery.

                            Young woman with hand on her head wearing white drawers and a pink cami outside by boxwood bushes.

                             To make the drawers pattern more for everyday wearing:

                            • Consider leaving the ruffle off. Trim the bottom edge or leave plain.
                            • Make into a "shorts" version. Leave the bottom edge un-adorned, or give in to the temptation and add a touch of lace, crochet trim, or small ruffle to the leg edges. Enjoy as cool comfy underwear, under a skirt or dress.
                            • Consider either version mentioned above as underwear or pajama bottoms.
                            • Or add length to the bottom edge of the legs, creating a pant any length you choose. Wear as pants, pajamas, or a substitute for a slip peeking from underneath a skirt or petticoat.
                            • Add an extra-long ruffled flounce at the bottom (with eyelet or lace) for a fun, and longer, set of drawers to wear on their own or under a skirt layer.

                            Young woman kicking a leg out sideways, wearing white drawers and a pink cami.

                            To make a longer set of drawers, as in the sample above, you can add as much length as you like to the bottom edge of the legs. Even though there is no ā€œlengthen or shortenā€ line, it is little trouble to add extra length to the drawers pattern. Just be sure to add the exact amount to the edges of both the Front and Back pattern pieces, keeping seam allowances in mind. Lengthen or shorten the ruffle in the same way if you like. Remember, if you use a fabric with a decorative finished edge, like an eyelet or lace edge, lace insertion, or crochet lace for the ruffle, there is no hemming required! The edge is already finished.  You can even make the legs full-length with or without a ruffle. A really simple version would be to use a beautiful eyelet fabric that has a decorative bottom edge (like we did with this sample) - and no ruffle is needed!

                            See the photo below for original lacy Edwardian Era inspiration.



                            Though the garments in this pattern were originally made of semi-sheer light weight white cotton fabrics, that does not mean they would not be perfectly lovely in other fabrics.  Light to mid-weight cotton, linen, silk, eyelet, or cotton flannel would be lovely. The versatility of each of these patterns means they can be made with sheer fabrics for warmer weather, as well as heavier fabrics for added warmth in winter.

                            Personally, I think layering is under appreciated, and this pattern is perfect for layering. Pair lightweight layers like cotton batiste, muslin, handkerchief linen, and silk haboti underneath heavier weight skirts made of cotton, linen, silks, or wool. This not only extends Edwardian practicality to create comfy warmth without the bulky layers, but makes interchangeable layering fun!

                            Pairing the camisole and drawers make a fun twist on pajamas! The camisole is perfect for warm weather sleeping, but don't forget how lovely it would be made of cotton flannel for winter slumbering. Make a short pair of drawers for warm weather out of cotton or linen. Make a long pair of drawers for chilly temps out of mid-weight linen, cotton shirting, cotton flannel, or silk.

                            If you love the clothing of the Edwardian Era as much as we do, you are in luck. Folkwear offers a wide range of garments of to help you find the perfect Edwardian piece for any occasion or just because they are so lovely.  Additional romantic Folkwear patterns include the 205 Gibson Girl Blouse, 206 Quilted Prairie Skirt, 209 Walking Skirt, 210 Armistice Blouse, 216 schoolmistress’ Shirtwaist & Skirt, 223 Lady’s Chemise, 227 Edwardian Bridal Gown... plus more!

                            Shop our lovely spring fabric selection here.

                            Be sure to see Molly's blog on lace insertion if you want to add lace to this pattern (also instructions are in the pattern). Of course, this tutorial is perfect for making the 205 Gibson Girl Blouse or any other garment that needs an authentic touch of lace insertion.

                            Whether for your trousseau, cosplay costume, historical reenacting, or everyday wearing our 203 Edwardian Underthings pattern will prove to be an enjoyable and easy to make addition to any romantically inspired wardrobe. Let this pattern stir the romantic in you!

                            As always, we look forward to seeing what you are inspired to make.

                             

                             

                             

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