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The Cravat

From the mid 17^th century, and to this day, the well-dressed gentleman has never considered his costume complete without some form of neckwear. In 1636 the cravat became fashionable – after the custom of the Croats or Cravates serving in the French army, who wore a length of cloth around their necks to protect the throat.

The first cravats were wound around the neck and usually tied in a bow or with a black ribbon. In 1692, the Battle of Steinkirk (in Belgium) introduced a new fashion. The French cavalry, surprised by the enemy, rushed to the attack with the ends of their cravats flying or carelessly twisted and drawn through a buttonhole. The casual style popularized by their victory was taken up by women as well as men.

For several decades following, the cravat gave way to a neck cloth that was pre-folded and fastened in back – the stock. In the 1770s, a vogue for pastoral English tastes brought back the unconstructed cravat in the form of a large triangle or square of the finest linen or muslin.

After 1830 the collar began to turn down over the cravat, which evolved into the bow tie, the ascot, and the four-in-hand.

Today, the cravat is fashionable for men and women.  It can compliment your outfit, provide a splash of color, and keep your neck warm.  My British father-in-law wore one nearly everyday of the winter – under his dress shirts or denim work shirts.  It gave him an air of gentility, and is a fun and useful accessory.  The instructions provided below create a cravat similar to what he wears, or you can download them here.  Simple to make and simple to wear, this pattern is a fun and quick make - a great holiday gift for anyone in your life.

Construction

The size and shape of cravats have varied over the centuries. In their earliest manifestation (c. 1680), they consisted of a rectangular strip of very fine lawn, the ends often trimmed with lace. By the end of the 18^th century, a folded square or triangle had been adopted, folded into a band, with endless varieties and subtleties of knots. Early in the 19^th century, cravats were pre-knotted and mounted on a fixed collar that fastened in the back by a button or a pin, although free-tying cravats were still used. Folkwear also offers the triangular cravat pattern in our 217 Poet's Shirt pattern, which is a versatile and adaptable for modern fabrics and fashions.

Choose fabrics that are fine, soft, and have a good drape.  Often, modern cravats are made with paisley print silk or other printed patterned silk, with a soft and plain colored cotton lawn as backing. 

This cravat

This cravat pattern is based on cravats my father-in-law wore all winter.  They are made of silk paisley print and cotton fabric.  They are pleated in the center for ease of wear and are very stylish.  You can see the way he ties and wears his cravat at the end of this post.

Seam allowance for this pattern is 1/4".

MATERIALS

• 1 1/4 yard silk print for the outside fabric of cravat (You may also cut this on the cross grain and therefore only need 1/4 yard of at least 45" wide fabric; Or, you can use a scrap of long 6"-8" wide selvedge edge from another project).
• 1 1/4 yard plain colored cotton lawn or poplin for inside of cravat (This can also be cut on the cross grain and only need 1/4 yard of at least 45" wide fabric, or be cut from 6"-8" selvedge edge)
• Coordinating thread
• Tailors chalk or your favorite marking pen/pencil/tool
• Pins
• The pattern, which is also below, but can also be downloaded with illustrations as a PDF here. 

CUTTING AND MARKING

Wash and press fabric before beginning.

Cut one rectangle each from the silk and cotton measuring 42" long by 6" wide, each. To see pattern drawings, you can view or download this article as a PDF here. 

Note: Most markings can be made just on the cotton piece (which can be a plain color and therefore easier to see markings).  Use tailor's chalk, or your favorite marking pen/chalk/pencil/etc.

Mark a line across the center of the fabric (across your fabric at 21").  Line is perpendicular to the long sides.

Make two more lines, one 6 3/4" on each side of this center line.  These will be your stitching lines when sewing down the pleats.

Mark a line, perpendicular to the long edge, 3 1/2" from each end of the long rectangle.

Mark the center of each short end of the rectangle and draw a line from the center to 1/4" inside the above line, on each side, to form a triangle.  Transfer these diagonal lines to the other side of the fabric also.  You will be stitching along these lines in the next step.

SEWING THE CRAVAT     

Use 1/4" seam allowance.

Place right sides of fabrics together (I would consider the chalk marked side of the cotton to be the "right side").  Pin and sew 1/4" seam allowance on the long sides of the cravat.  At the short ends, sew along 3 of the 4 diagonal lines formed in the previous step.

Turn right sides out. Press so that the ends form a nice flat triangle.  You will be hand stitching one side end closed later.

Now it is time to form the pleats.

Draw, with chalk, horizontal lines every 1/2" from the top edge, going perpendicular to the 3 center lines.  These marking lines should only go from the left-hand vertical line, crossing the center, to the right-hand vertical line.  They do not need to go further.

Start folding from the top, place each horizontal line on the second one below it, so that you have 3 horizontal pleats. Press pleats.

Stitch across pleats along the 3 vertical stitching lines, backstitching at beginning and end to secure thread.

Whipstitch diagonal end closed.

How to wear: 

This is how my father-in-law ties and wears his cravats.

First, hang this cravat around the back of your neck with one end shorter than the other.

 Then, wrap the longer end around the shorter end two times.

Then, tuck the long end behind the wrap and bring it to the front and tuck it into the font of your shirt.

Looking for some small gifts for your sewing friends (or yourself)?  We have some suggestions for fun and unique things in our store that make perfect stocking stuffers and sewing-friend presents.  And, did I mention these are all less than $20 . . . ?

Pattern Tracing Fabric (Swedish Tracing Paper) and Removable Tape.  These two are wonderful for any sewist (or sewer?), making pattern tracing and drafting so much easier!  I use these for nearly all of my sewing projects.  

Asian Knot Templates: button, tear-drop, flower.  With these three templates, anyone can make buttons, embellishments, zipper pulls, tassels, and other fun finishes for sewing projects.

Bias Tape Makers:  Make your own 1/4", 1/2", or 3/4" bias tape from your own fabric with these nifty little bias tape makers.  I love my bias tape maker and use it all the time to make beautiful edge finishes or ribbons with my favorite fabrics.

Organic Eri Silk Embroidery Thread:  A beautiful embroidery thread that is perfect for handwork on any garments (especially Folkwear!).  And feel good about using organic silk that has been naturally dyed!  Comes in madder red and indigo blue - from Botanica Tinctoria.

Fun patterns to give as gifts:

109 Little Folks - for anyone expecting a baby (or grandbaby or niece or nephew) in the next year.  Give this with a yard of special fabric and sweet trim = perfect (and really fun) gift!

129A Japanese Tabi - a fun and unusual pattern.  Great for men or women!  Again, include some interesting fabric (less that 1 yard is needed) for a fun present.

269 Metropolitan Hat - hat patterns are always a good bet, especially for a friend who loves them.  Include a fun hat embellishment (one that you made, perhaps) to complete this gift.

Winter is full of holidays and holiday events that call for slightly more formal or festive attire than what we normally don.  Below, we have some suggestions that may help with the age-old question of, "What should I wear?".  These suggestions range from more formal ensembles to separates that can add a pick me up to the classic staple pieces in your wardrobe.  And, we are including fabric suggestions and sources for each pattern.  We hope you feel fabulous at the many events from the office party to parade, or from a ceremony to celebration.  Whatever tradition you follow, we wish you warmth and joy!

Spice it up with Separates

We all have our favorite go-to basics.  Here are some ideas to refresh your style!

111 Nepali Blouse

The Nepali Blouse is traditionally made of velvet.  Need I say more?  This wrap and tie blouse drapes nicely and is a great pick me up for any closet.  This could be dressed up or down to suit your needs.

Stone Mountain and Daughter Fabrics has some beautiful silk/rayon velvets that would be perfect!

126 Vests form Greece and Poland

The mid-calf Greek vest stands out to me the most.  It would be great in various fabrics ranging from lighter weight to a sturdy wool or blend.  I've been noticing a lot of longer jackets and dusters this fall, so this is very on-trend! 

Vogue Fabrics has beautiful wool boucle coating, designer wool fabric, and wool flannel.

118 Tibetan Panel Coat

This pattern has so much potential for expressing your creativity and style.  Try this pattern to create a one of a kind wearable art piece with function and style that is perfect for the holidays!

Let you imagination run wild with this one!  Hand-woven pieces are great in this; holiday themed are fun; or make from some classic, dark wool solids.

114 Chinese Jacket

The Chinese Jacket pattern is a versatile design.  The pattern features three lengths.  It that could be constructed in a vibrant, rich colored silk to wear as a top or even a lightweight wool as outerwear.

Dresses and Complete Looks

139 Vietnamese Ao Dai

This beautiful pattern can be crafted to a more formal garment if desired.  The tunic has the flow of a dress and the pants drape nicely underneath.  Gorgeous in a silk brocade, and certainly a showstopper at your holiday gathering.

Marcy Tilton has some gorgeous brocades that would be fabulous for this pattern (or for the 114 Chinese Jacket above).  Fabric for this pattern should be more flowing, or have more drape, than fabric for 114 Chinese Jacket.

215 Empire Dress

I can't stop envisioning this dress in a silk velvet.  The option of hemming to "street-length" would modernize the look as well. 

Michael Levine has a huge selection of silk velvets (at a reasonable price).

148 Black Forest Smock

This pattern would be lovely in a lightweight wool or corduroy. The pattern can be made as a dress or shirt.  It also has great potential for handwork and decorative stitching - perfect to add winter or holiday themed embroidery.  If you have any mother-child pairs,the 110 Little Kittel pattern is just a child-sized version of this.

Beautiful wale corduroys at Harts Fabric, here.

233 Glamour Girl

This elegant dress is a stunning option.  It can be made as knee length, mid-calf, or ankle length.  This would be a lovely vintage look to ring in the New Year with style.

Perfect in a rayon crepe, like these from Harts Fabric.

256 At the Hop

Who's ready for some fun?  This pattern already has the instructions for an alpine applique!  Or make your own holiday applique for this skirt (ornaments, tree, snowflakes, etc.).  Perfect for any event where festive clothes are needed!  The sweater will keep you warm on cool days (also come with a winter scene!).  

Fun holiday themed fabrics here from Fabric Depot would work for making the skirt, or shirt, or for making a cute applique.  

Holiday Gift Guide

Here in Western North Carolina we are feeling the season change.  The days are are shortening, the evenings are cool, and the leaves have turned and are dropping.  So, naturally we start looking ahead to the cozy months, months of sewing and creativity . . . and of course the Holidays!  Below, we have a list of wonderful  gift ideas that you can make from Folkwear patterns so you can get a jump start on your handmade holiday gifts.  

Quick for Children:

109 Little Folks PDF Pattern

An international collection, featuring eight(!) patterns and a variety of optional handwork techniques.  This pattern is no longer available as a paper pattern, but we have an easy to use PDF available!  Dress your sweeties up in a Japanese Kintaro, Mexican Dress or Baby Shirt, Korean Booties, Nepali Chupa, Moroccan Djellaba, or Turkish Tunic and Bloomers.  These are easy and quick patterns, and you can make them more personalized with embroidery, homemade tassels, or other handwork which are included in the instructions (or adorable monograms).

225 Childhood Dreams (image above)

Although, this pattern cam be made for day dresses of even special occasions, it also has all the makings for a really nice nightgown.  The choice of fabric and trim can change the look and use of this garment.  It was always a Christmas Eve tradition in my family to open a gift of new sleepwear.  This has carried on from my parents to my children.  This would be a perfect pattern for that tradition. 

What traditions do you have for family's Holiday?  

Wearable and Quick with Little-to-No Sizing or Fitting Required 

269 Metropolitan Hat (above) 

I'm a sucker for a great hat!  It's always fun to find one that is both interesting and practical.  This patterns shows options for decorative fabric rosettes that can be fashioned out of the hat fabric, contrasting materials such as lace, tulle, or glittering silk, or entirely replaced by a vintage brooch or dramatic button. This pattern can be made in 3 sizes, and there are just three pattern pieces: Brim, Band, and Crown.  Constructing this in a wool or felt will certainly help keep your loved one warm!  

129A Japanese Tabi Socks

For the person who has everything!  This unique gift provides warmth and protection for the toes with flip flops or by themselves as comfortable at-home slippers to protect your floors. Traditional to Japan . . . .  A quick, easy, and inexpensive gift!

129 Japanese Hapi and Haori

You can make three garments from this pattern - all of them easy to fit (with lots of ease built into the patterns).  The Hapi is a shorter, unlined cardigan-type jacket that is easy to sew.  The Haori is slightly longer, lined, and similar to a kimono.  This pattern also comes with the Japanese Tabi sock pattern.  These are great garments to make for women or men (sized for both), and are perfect lounge-wear, though I made a Hapi for myself that I use as a light jacket to wear out and about.

113 Japanese Kimono

This classic pattern is for an unlined kimono (yukata) and is a great gift for anyone (sized for women and men).  Our pattern includes instructions for shibori dyeing, sashiko embroidery (image above), and for making an obi or sash.  So, you can make this a unique gift.

132 Moroccan Burnoose

A unique gift, this cape is dramatic when worn un-traditionally over modern clothing.  On trend right now too!  Our pattern details different ways of wearing and draping the finished garment.  No fitting required - just a vision and some great fabric.

For the Home:

302 Victoria's Boudoir 

This pattern has 7 parts to choose from.  The piece that really stands out for me (sweet and simple) is the Potpourri Sachet!  This would be a fun thing to make and have for quick gifts for friends and family - and you can use up your awesome fabric scraps.  There is a recipe for the potpourri blend or you can get creative with your own blend.  

304 Nursery Days

This pattern has 5 parts to choose from.  The Teddy Bear would be so sweet with many fabric choices.  The Pillow Sham has great potential for customization with fabric choice, added embroidery, or applique.  Kids love gifts with their name or favorite things featured on them.  The size of the Quilt would make a nice throw for anywhere in the home (not limited to cribs)!

305 A Japanese Interior

This popular pattern has 8 parts to choose from.  The pattern includes tips for handwork and dyeing techniques.  The Decorative Curtains (Noren) would be a great way to show off some of your handwork skills!  There are 3 different shapes of pillows to choose from as well.  An adaptation for these could be to make them heat friendly (filling with buckwheat or rice and dried herbs), and use them to warm up on a chilly day!  Or, do your own indigo dying and make the pillow covers or quilt.  Oh, did I mention Quilted Sleeping Kimono adaptation instructions using 113 Japanese Kimono?

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We hope this helps you with some great ideas for gifts to make your friends and family this holiday season.  To make it easier for you, all of these patterns will be on sale through November!  And, keep a look out for our Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales at the end of the month. 

And, we would love to see what you make!  Tag us on social media (#folkwearpatterns) or send an email!

Happy sewing!!

We have a guest post today from writer, Jackie Edwards, about traditional fashion in Africa.  She recently covered 10 of the most beautiful traditional garments from Africa and here introduces that article.  A link to the list is found at the bottom and is well worth the read - lots of fun and inspiration! Folkwear has a patterns from African traditional clothing here (Sarouelles)and here (Moroccan Burnoose) and a child's pattern in this one - and we will be adding a new one in the spring! 

Thanks, Jackie!

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Unravelling the Story Behind African Fashion

African fashion designer, Mahlet Afework, has said “there is beauty in everything and there is beauty in African fashion”. African fashion is extraordinarily beautiful because it all tells a story. By looking at the bright colors and intricate design, one can tell where the garment was made and what it is used for.

In Northeastern Africa, styles have been influenced by Middle Eastern culture, whereas the Northwestern fashions have remained more genuine and true to the African culture. In East Africa, Swahili speaking men wear the kanzu while women wear the kanga and gomesi, and in Sahelian Africa, the dashiki and grand boubou and more popular. Southern African fashion can be identified by shirts that are worn like long dresses, such as the Madiba shirt in South Africa and the safari shirt in Zimbabwe.

The styles and trends in Africa are a true representation of the fashion world. In fashion, you should dress in a way that most represents you and African fashion truly embraces this aspect.

To learn more about the fashion and how you can identify the story behind the clothing, check out these 10 traditional African fashion trends.  

I was inspired by Etro's 2017 fall ready-to-wear collection, especially this dress that looked so much like our Afghan Nomad Dress.  

So, I thought I would try to make my own!  When I was in NYC in August I found some beautiful Liberty fabric at a great price at Mood.  I also found a few yards of beautiful, wide embroidered silk trim at Virgin Fabrics in the Garment District.  Then, Rachel at Botanica Tinctoria sent me indigo-dyed organic cotton crocheted lace.  A vision was starting to come together.  

I use our 107 Afghan Nomad Dress pattern and made a few alterations.  First, I shortened the skirt to my knees and took out a lot of the skirt bulk.  I used maybe half to 2/3 the amount of a traditional Afghan nomad dress.  I just did not need or want that much bulk for a shorter skirt (also the fabric was expensive enough that I thought I could do with using less!).  And, I think I probably could have used even less width in the skirt, especially since it is a little bit of a heavier fabric than the lightweight, translucent lawn I used for sleeve and bodice, and doesn't drape as close to the body.  I also flipped the back to be the front (and front to be the back) because I like the neckline of the slit in the front.

I started by sewing the embroidered trim onto the bodice (by machine).  Then, I hand-stitched the crocheted lace between the trims and at the bottom.  The bodice already had the center slash cut into it, so I was just stitching on top as if it was not there.  

I then I cut the slash at the top of the bodice for the neckline through the trim, and tacked the back, or lining, of the bodice to the front bodice piece. From there, I just followed the pattern instructions. I did a blind hem stitch on the bottom edge.  

I love how it turned out - love the colors - and it is very comfortable.  

Anyone else inspired to make their own Afghan Nomad Dress?

I am so excited about a new product we are carrying in the Folkwear store: naturally dyed, organic Eri silk embroidery thread!  

This thread comes from Botanica Tinctoria, a company that sources sustainably made trims, voile, and threads.  Eri silk is durable and strong (and the worm is not killed in the processing).  The thread is GOTS-certified organic, and is dyed with natural materials and safe mordants in a closed loop process in India.  You can feel good about using this thread.

We carry Madder Red and Mid-Indigo Blue - two colors that are traditionally used in clothing embroidery in many cultures.  This 8-stranded thread will be perfect to use, separated (and often together), for any embroidery stitching on 107 Afghan Nomad Dress, any of the garments in 109 Little Folks, 142 Old Mexico Dress, 209 Walking Skirt, and many others.  There are so many uses for embroidery thread in our patterns when doing traditional handwork - from couching (Afghan Nomad Dress) to applique (Hungarian Szur, Big Sky Riding Skirt) to quilting (Turkish Coat, Quilted Prairie Skirt).

Environmentally and socially sustainable, and used to create hand-sewn, beautiful garments - this thread is the opposite of fast fashion.  We are proud to carry such a product and can't wait to see what you make with it!

Have you been watching the Outlander series on Starz?  I have read most of the books by Diana Gabaldon, and I have seen a few episodes of the show.  I enjoyed the books and the shows that I watched, but I know there are a lot of huge fans of Claire and Jamie out there.  Outlander is getting a lot of interest and press lately as a new season has just started.  What has struck me most, when watching the shows and reading about the shows, is the costumes.  They are well done and beautiful!  I found a few articles recently about the costumes from Outlander and how they were made.  You can read about them here (Outlander Costume Secrets at Buzzfeed)and here (Outlander Costumes and Starz).  And you can read more about the costumes and what goes into making them on the costume designer, Terry Dresbach's blog.  Very interesting!   

All of this also made me think of Folkwear patterns and creating some of the looks from the Outlander shows.  Of course, 152 Scottish Kilt would be perfect - kilt, Prince Charlie Jacket, vest - to get Scottish Jamie's look.  The 102 French Cheesemaker's Smock or the 116 Shirts of Russian and Ukraine are also a great shirt patterns for the time period. Also, 267 M'Lady's Corset and 207 Kinsale Cloak are iconic of the time and place, respectively. For the 1940's, tailored-Claire-look, our 133 Belgian Military Jacket, 250 Hollywood Pants, and 263 Countryside Frock Coat (for Frank too) would work well.  And, of course, for such a steamy show, 219 Intimacies is appropriate!

What do you think of the Outlander costumes?  Which patterns would you use to create an Outlander look?

Our guide to help you find the perfect costume to sew for yourself and everyone in your family. 

We have set out a few themes below, some with patterns for women, men, and children to fit those ideas.  So, if you like, your whole family (or friend group) can dress up together!

Ren Flair

123 Austrian Dirndl – a classic Renaissance outfit, or for an Oktoberfest beer maiden

108 Turkish Dancer – gorgeous flowing sleeves with a vest – perfect made from tissue silk

102 French Cheesemaker's Smock – classic men's shirt for any Renaissance theme

144 Tribal Belly Dancer – pieces from this pattern make fun Ren Fair wear

267 M'Lady's Corset – great and relatively simple corset – such a great costume piece

20's Classy Act Couple

Dress up like F. Scott and Zelda for a night on the town

264 Monte Carlo Dress

238 Le Smoking Jacket

Steampunk

So many of our patterns can be made into fabulous Steampunk costumes.  A great fabric choice, then add your own flair to finish the following, and you'll be set!

230 Model T Duster

133 Belgian Military Chef's Jacket

209 Walking Skirt

267 M'Lady's Corset

216 School Mistress' Outfit

American Western Family

This is an easy costume – a western shirt (212 or 218) with jeans and cowboy boots.  But, if you want it a little more involved, try the Big Sky Riding Skirt or add some fringe to the Rodeo Cowgirls Jacket and Skirt.  So fun!

212 Five Frontier Shirts

218 Child's Frontier Shirt

231 Big Sky Riding Skirt

242 Rodeo Cowgirl Jacket

243 Rodeo Cowgirl Skirt

Forest Friends

Harkening back to Celtic Britain, these patterns would be perfect in natural colors and fibers, or with nature themed fabric – eco-printed silk or wool, or naturally dyed muslin, or beautiful tweed.

207 Kinsale Cloak

208 Kinsale Cloak for Young Maidens

110 Little Kittel (for the young ones)

148 Black Forest Smock

Our #243 Rodeo Cowgirl Skirt is perfect for trimming out with studs, fringe, or other fun trims. 

Recommended fabrics for the skirt are denim, cotton (including quilting cotton, where you can get so many great and fun prints), linen, leather, lace (applique), and light to medium weight silk.  

Finding good sources of trim, such as studs or leather fringe, can be difficult.  I've tracked a few on-line places down and have listed them below.  We'd love to hear how you embellish your skirt (or other garments), so send us an email or tag us in a social media pic, or post to our Facebook group (Folkwear Patterns Sewing Group)!

• Vogue Fabrics has some great fringe (surry, rayon chainette, and beaded).  They also have some fabulous metal trims in many shapes, and rhinestones.

• Michael Levine has a selection of rhinestone appliques, star studs, and fringe trims.

• M&J Trimming (NYC) has a large selection of fringe trims (chainette, feather, beaded, and a few leather) as well as rhinestones.

• Walco Leather Co. Inc. is located in NYC, and is the only one listed here without an online store.  You must either go to their store in person, or get in touch with them to place an order.  Walco Leather has beautiful leather trim, and can also provide custom leather trim. Phone: 212-243-2244 or email: info@walcoleather.com

• And, VV Rouleaux (who I discovered in England the other week) has many gorgeous fringe, lace, and ribbon trims.  Probably worth the shipping cost to the US!

#240 Rosie the Riveter and #243 Rodeo Cowgirl Skirt are on sale this month.  Check out these photos from a recent shoot for a little inspiration. 

#240 Rosie the Riveter, overalls and pants

#243 Rodeo Cowgirl Skirt